Long Ride

An expert surfer takes a wave

An expert surfer takes a wave near Jetty Pier Park, Cape Canaveral, Florida. Taken with an Apple IPhone 8.

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Copyright 2024 All Rights Reserved Michael Stephen Wills

12 thoughts on “Long Ride

    1. Yes, “surfing a wave” and “riding a wave” are terms often used interchangeably in the context of surfing. Both phrases describe the action of moving along the face of a wave while standing or lying on a surfboard.

      The phrase “riding a wave” likely comes from the broader definition of “ride,” which means to sit on and control the movement of (an animal or vehicle). In the case of surfing, the “vehicle” is a surfboard, and the surfer is controlling their movement along the wave. This term has been adapted to describe the act of navigating and maneuvering on a wave, emphasizing the dynamic and interactive process of balancing and moving with the wave’s contours and power.

      “Riding” is a term that’s also used in other board sports and activities involving a dynamic surface, such as snowboarding (“riding the snow”) and skateboarding (“riding the skatepark”). The adaptation of “riding” to describe surfing reflects the shared experience across these sports of engaging with a surface in a way that requires balance, skill, and an understanding of the mediumโ€”whether it’s water, snow, or concrete.

      The specific origins of the phrase “riding a wave” in the context of surfing are difficult to trace, as the sport itself has ancient roots, with evidence of wave-riding activities in Polynesian cultures long before contact with Europeans. The modern terminology around surfing, including phrases like “riding a wave,” evolved as the sport became more popular globally, especially in the 20th century.

      In essence, “riding a wave” encapsulates not just the physical act of surfing but also the connection and harmony between the surfer and the natural power of the ocean.

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