A Whitewashed Memory on Inishmore

I reflect on traditional Aran cottages while journeying to Dún Aonghasa, emphasizing the beauty of simplicity and lasting memories.

MichaelStephenWills

It was the kind of overcast morning that seems to cradle the island in a blanket of mist, a gentle hush falling over the land as though even the Atlantic held its breath. Pam and I had arrived by ferry at Kilronan, the main settlement on Inishmore (Inis Mór), the largest of the Aran Islands nestled in Galway Bay. There, amid the bustle of arrivals and greetings, we found our driver—a wiry, weather-worn man with a soft brogue and kind eyes—and his horse trap, a simple two-wheeled carriage with room enough for three and the sounds of hooves to accompany our journey.

We set out up Cottage Road, the stone-paved track winding westward from the harbor. The sea fell away behind us as we climbed, a gray shimmer stretching to the hazy outline of Connemara’s mountains on the far side of the bay. Our destination was the dramatic cliffside ringfort of Dún Aonghasa, a place older than memory. But it was the unexpected moments in between—the ones not printed in guidebooks—that linger longest in the mind.

As we rounded a bend flanked by low stone walls, wildflowers blooming defiantly in the cracks, our driver pulled the reins gently and pointed with his crop.

“There,” he said, nodding ahead, “is a fine example of a traditional Aran cottage.”

And there it was—a vision from another time. The thatched roof curved softly like a that blanket itself, straw golden against the brooding sky. The walls were whitewashed to a perfect matte sheen, gleaming in spite of the cloud cover. A crimson door and two window frames punctuated the front façade like punctuation in a poem. Just to its right, set further back on the hill, stood a tiny replica of the same cottage, identical in every feature. I blinked, half believing it was an illusion.

Click the link for my Getty IStock photography of the Aran Islands
This thatched cottage with matching child’s playhouse is on Cottage Road out of Kilronan Village on the Aran island, Inishmore, County Galway, Ireland.

We only stopped briefly—it was a private residence—but the sight of it left a kind of imprint. I turned in the trap seat to keep it in view as long as I could. The cottage was perfectly placed, facing Galway Bay with a commanding view. I imagined the light pouring across the line of mountains, catching the glint of sea and sky.

“There’s a name for that finish,” I said, recalling something I’d read, “whitewash, or lime paint.”

Our driver nodded. “That’s the old way. Made from slaked lime. We’d call it ‘whitening’ when I was a lad.”

Whitewash differs from paint in the most elemental of ways. It becomes part of the stone, absorbed into the very surface. Like a memory of bone. And yet, it requires care. Apply it to a wall not properly cleaned or moistened, and it flakes, pulls away like a broken promise. But done right, it lasts, breathes with the building.

Upon our return, researching “whitewash,” if found this photograph from the Yarloop railway workshops Yarloop, Western Australia. There, on a shelf, where three old boxes sat like relics: DURABLO, WESCO, and CALCIMO. All contained kalsomine—the powdered form of lime paint. CALCIMO promised to “beautify walls and ceilings” and was proudly marked “LIME PROOF.” There was something quietly heroic in that. Lime-proof, as though against time itself.

Yarloop railway workshops Yarloop, Western Australia Kalsomine, wall ceiling plaster powder. Source: Wikipedia article on White Wash. Author: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Gnangarra

Looking at the box of Calcimo, a product of the Murabo Company of Australia, I was struck by how far the tradition had traveled. From island cottages in the Atlantic to distant corners of the Southern Hemisphere, the language of whitewash—of simplicity and purity—had touched the world.

We returned by the same road, past that same cottage, the small one still keeping watch beside it like a child beside a parent. And I knew then that the islands hadn’t just given me sights—they had offered stories, silent ones written in thatch and stone, in lime and wind.

Sources for this post: search wikipedia for “White Wash”. White wash photo author: Wikipedia commons user Gnangarra

Click me for the first post of this series, “Horse Trap on Inishmore.”

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27 thoughts on “A Whitewashed Memory on Inishmore”

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    1. Thank you, Nesfelicio! I’m so glad you found the details about whitewash interesting—it’s a humble material with quite a bit of history behind it. I appreciate your kind words about the post!

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  11. The Irish dún that means ‘fortified place’ is etymologically the same as English down, which ended up denoting the direction one goes in leaving a [high] fortified place. English town, borrowed from Celtic, is also the same word.

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    1. Thank you, Steve—what a fascinating etymological thread! It’s remarkable how language carries the memory of place and purpose. The descent from dún to down adds a poetic echo to those windswept heights of Inishmore. I appreciate the added depth your comment brings to the post.

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  13. We learned a lot about whitewashing in Spain and Portugal this year, having learned it from the Moors, who learned it from even older civilizations. But we have also seen it in parts of South America too, brought over by the Spanish I assume. It makes the homes look so much more charming.

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    1. Thank you, Maggie—what a rich trail of history you’ve followed! It’s fascinating how whitewash traveled across continents and cultures, carrying both practical value and aesthetic charm. I love how it connects humble homes from Inishmore to Iberia and beyond, each with its own story written in lime.

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  15. There’s something so timeless and romantic about that cottage. The photo could be hundreds of years old and it certainly harkens back to seemingly simpler times. Beautiful. I didn’t know about “whitening” as a specific technique. Thanks for the lesson, the poetry of the place, and the photo.

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    1. Thank you, Diane. That cottage seemed to hold time still, didn’t it? I’m so glad the image and words brought that sense of quiet romance to you. The whitening—or whitewashing—tradition runs deep in places like Inishmore, part preservation, part poetry. I always appreciate your reflections.

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