Category: humanity

Drombeg Fulacht Fiadh: A Journey Through History

Join Mike and Pam at Drombeg Stone Circle to explore stone hut remains and a mysterious hearth beside the Fulacht Fiadh in Ireland’s green landscape.

MichaelStephenWills5 Comments

A narrow path, a handful of low stone walls, and small white flowers scattered through the grass: the photographs of our exploration at Drombeg preserve details that invite a closer look. Beside the Fulacht Fiadh, two adjoining huts survive as outlines in the ground. Exploring this part of the site with my wife, Pam, gives me a way to think about the people behind the stones, even when so much of their story remains beyond our reach.

Approach to Hut A

The first photograph, one of the huts, draws the eye along a worn strip of earth toward an opening between upright stones. Beyond it, the hut’s curved boundary gathers a patch of grass into something recognizable as a space. Some stones stand prominently; others barely rise above the turf. Pale lichen marks their faces. Small flowers grow around their bases, softening the edges without quite concealing the arrangement.

Looking at that opening, I imagine the simple act of entering. It is an ordinary movement, one Pam and I have made through countless doorways together. Here, the surviving stones give that familiar action an unfamiliar setting. What would it have meant to cross this threshold when the hut was in use? The photograph cannot answer, but it makes the question feel close enough to linger over.

Drombeg Fulacht Fiadh and Hut Site The fulacht fiadh, which is an ancient cooking place and adjacent hut sites probably date to the Bronze Age and may have been in use at the same time as the nearby stone circle.
The fulacht fiadh consists of a trough with an adjoining hearth and well, which are all enclosed by a low stone bank with an entrance to the south. Water in the trough was heated by rolling stones heated by fire in the hearth, into the water. Experiments conducted during excavation of the site in 1957 showed that 70 gallons (318 litres) of cold water could be brought to the boil in 18 minutes. Meat was then cooked in the water which remained sufficiently hot for almost 3 hours. Alternative suggested uses for fulachta fiadha are bathing, industrial activities such as dyeing and even brewing!
One of the conjoined huts contains a stone-lined feature interpreted as a roasting oven which suggests that the huts may have had a food processing function similar to that of the nearby fulacht fiadh. A pathway links both.
A stone saddle quern – used for grinding grain – was found over a drain in the cooking place but probably originated from one of the huts.
Drombeg—from An Drom Beag
(the Small Ridge)

The accompanying OPW placard give us a few firm details. Drombeg has two huts adjoining the Fulacht Fiadh, with a connecting path. Hut B incorporates a rock-lined hearth that possibly served as an oven. Those few words change the way I read the scene. The low remains become places with a relationship to one another, and the path becomes a useful thread to follow through the scattered stone.

Hut B with a view of the landscape.

In the wider view, the ground slopes away toward hedges, green fields, and distant buildings. Closer to the camera, irregular stones trace the hut through grass and patches of bare earth. A broad, flat slab rests above a dark recess. Nothing in the photograph announces itself with grandeur. Its interest lies in how closely we look, and in the small connections we begin to make.

The hearth is a detail that holds my attention. The OPW placard notes are careful: it possibly served as an oven. I want to keep that uncertainty intact. It leaves room for curiosity without turning a suggestion into a fact. Even with that restraint, the possibility of cooking brings a human scale to the ruins. An oven suggests work to be done, something to prepare, someone waiting.

Can this be anything but a comfortable perch to take in the view? No, the OPW placard suggests its use as a hearth.

The closest photograph brings the hearth into sharper focus. White patches of lichen spread across the the irregular rock wall. Plants fill small gaps beneath it. The stones lean at different angles, and the trough leads the eye onward. The view holds the intimate detail and the larger setting together, allowing us to consider how these neighboring spaces might have related.

I imagine a person tending heat there, watching carefully, occupied with a task that mattered in the moment. That is an imagined scene, not something these photographs establish. Yet it helps me approach the stones with a different kind of attention. Whoever used this place had practical concerns that we can wonder about, even when their names, words, and particular circumstances are lost to us.

Approaching the Fulacht Fiadh…

The Fulacht Fiadh site contains a hearth as well.

The hearth is to the right of the rock-lined trough, a spring above.
In Fulacht Fiadh investigated there is a link to preparation activity involving heat and moisture. Found throughout Ireland, Great Britan and the Isle of Man where the sites are called “Burnt Mounds”.
In the center of the Fulacht Fiadh is a trough, a water filled pit, which at Drombeg is lined with rock. A water source, a spring to the left (not visible in this photograph), a hearth above.
The water source, a spring.

For me, sharing an exploration like this with Pam offers its own pleasure: having someone beside whom to consider what remains. I cannot supply a remembered conversation from these pictures. I can, however, imagine the questions we might carry away. How much can a surviving outline tell us? At what point does looking become imagining? How do we appreciate a place while leaving its unanswered questions open?

Here we stand behind the sping for a broad view of the landscape. The hearth is to the right of the trough.

These photographs bring back to mind a low doorway, a path, and the hearth. Together, they offer a modest but absorbing way into Drombeg. The flowers are small enough to overlook; so are some of the stones. Giving them attention becomes part of the experience. In this telling of our visit, that is what I would keep: Pam and me exploring the surviving shapes of a place, following what we can see, and letting a few careful questions accompany us.

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On Being Thankful

A garden, migrating geese, an unexpected balloon and flowers opening after dark remind me that gratitude begins by noticing the extraordinary within ordinary life.

MichaelStephenWills14 Comments

There are times when gratitude arrives not as a grand revelation but quietly, almost unnoticed. It can begin by looking out a window, walking through a garden, hearing the calls of birds overhead, or watching something unexpected drift across an otherwise familiar sky. My video is made of such moments. It is a collection of things close at hand, yet when gathered together and accompanied by music, they become something more: a reminder of how extraordinarily rich an ordinary life can be.

I have much to be thankful for.

I am thankful, first, for home, a place on Earth intimately known to me. The opening views of the garden convey that sense wonderfully. There are great white clusters of hydrangea against deep green foliage, scattered pink blossoms, lawn, trees and the familiar boundaries of a yard. None of it is monumental. That is exactly the point. These are not the Alps or some distant wilderness. They are the landscape of everyday life, made beautiful by familiarity, care and the changing seasons.

A garden teaches gratitude because nothing in it remains still. Flowers arrive, flourish and disappear. Leaves that emerge with the almost translucent green of spring deepen through summer and eventually blaze red before falling. Brilliant red foliage is particularly striking, it carries within it both beauty and departure. Autumn diminishes and completes summer.

And then there are those remarkable white flowers opening in darkness—the extravagant, almost otherworldly blossoms of the night-blooming cactus. They seem fashioned from moonlight: long, narrow petals radiating from their centers, magnificent for such a brief interval. Their fleeting existence makes them more precious. To witness one requires being present at the right moment.

Perhaps that is true of much of life.

I am thankful that I have retained the impulse to notice.

There is a considerable difference between seeing something and noticing it. The world is filled with people who look at flowers, birds and skies every day without really seeing them. Curiosity changes that. It makes a flock of geese more than birds crossing the sky. they form their wavering lines beneath pale blue heavens shared with our moon. They are travelers following routes far older than our roads, houses or cities. Their passage reminds me that my home is part of a much larger landscape and that the seasons unfolding in my yard belong to rhythms extending across a continent.

I am thankful for the ability to look upward.

The balloon drifting above the neighborhood makes that thought almost literal. Suddenly an ordinary sky contains a great yellow, red and blue vessel, sometimes distant among the trees, sometimes passing wonderfully close overhead. We see the basket beneath it and the people aboard—human beings temporarily liberated from the ground, carried through the same air in which the geese travel.

There is something optimistic about a hot-air balloon. It accomplishes wonderfully nothing particularly urgent. It rises because people still want to know what the world looks like from somewhere else. Its presence in the video celebrates imagination, adventure and the persistence of wonder.

Yet gratitude also grows downward, into the earth.

The images of lush plants growing in raised beds and then harvested in abundance speak of another kind of wealth. Food does not simply appear. A seed becomes roots and leaves; sunlight is captured; water rises through stems; soil gives up minerals; human hands tend what is growing. Eventually the garden gives something back. To harvest food from plants one has watched develop is to participate, however modestly, in one of humanity’s oldest relationships with the living world.

I am thankful for that abundance—not abundance measured by possessions, but by experiences.

The sculpture of the young boy and girl quietly sharing a book adds a different note. Amid flowers, birds, harvests and skies is an image of companionship. Two figures sit close together, absorbed in the same story. It suggests affection, learning, intimacy and the pleasure of sharing something with another person. A life becomes immeasurably richer when its experiences are not ours alone.

That may be the deepest source of gratitude: the people with whom life has been shared. Family and friends give meaning to places and memories. A garden is more than plants when someone has walked through it with us. A meal is more than food when others sit at the table. A photograph becomes more valuable when it preserves something we want another person—or another generation—to see.

The music running through the video strengthens this sense of reflection. It does not demand attention so much as give the images emotional space. As the photographs succeed one another, the music turns observation into remembrance. The effect is almost like leafing through an album while realizing that the apparently unrelated pictures are chapters of the same story.

And perhaps that is why I find the video inspirational.

None of its subjects needs to be spectacular to matter. A flower opens. Geese cross the sky. Vegetables grow. Leaves turn red. Two children read together. A balloon unexpectedly floats over the neighborhood. Hydrangeas bloom beside a fence.

Meanwhile, time passes.

That last fact could make these images melancholy, but I do not think it does. Their transience is precisely what gives them value. Gratitude does not require pretending that beautiful things last forever. It comes from understanding that they do not—and loving them anyway.

I am thankful for the years behind me: for places visited, things learned, people loved, photographs made and memories accumulated. But I am equally thankful that the world still contains things capable of surprising me. There are still flowers I want to examine more closely, birds whose journeys I want to understand, stars I want to find through a telescope, landscapes I want to photograph, stories I want to tell, and mornings when I do not yet know what will appear outside my window.

That may be one of life’s greatest gifts: there is still something to look forward to.

The world does not owe us another summer, another migration overhead, another flower opening after dark, or another unexpected balloon sailing across a blue September sky. When such moments come, the proper response is not merely to record them.

It is to recognize them.

And to be thankful.

Click me to visit Michael Stephen Wills Online Finger Lakes Gallery.

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Scarlet Bee Balm and Bottlebrush Grass in Treman Park

Discover scarlet bee balm and eastern bottlebrush grass along Robert H. Treman’s South Rim Trail, where native plants reveal Finger Lakes ecology, history, and culture.

MichaelStephenWills10 Comments

In July, the South Rim Trail of Robert H. Treman State the gorge gathers coolness, a refuge on sultry Finger Lakes summer afternoons. Beneath hemlocks and northern hardwoods, the air seems older, quieter, touched by water moving somewhere below. The trail passes between the intimacy of Enfield Glen and, higher up the gorge, the larger wandering course of the Finger Lakes Trail draws me away from ordinary measures of distance and urgency. In such a place, attention gradually changes. The forest ceases to be a green background and becomes a society of distinct lives.

A footbridge on the South Rim trail crosses a feeder stream to Enfield Creek.

It was in this receptive state that I encountered colonies of scarlet bee balm on either side of the Finger Lakes Trail. The crimson flower heads rising above the surrounding vegetation like scattered signal fires. The color seemed almost impossible in the woodland light—not delicate or retiring, but exuberant. Each blossom rewarded a closer look, resolving into a wild arrangement of slender red tubes, curling lips, dark centers, and leaflike bracts. Here a native plant announces itself with an exotic richness.

Scarlett Bee Balm bloomed throughout well watered flatlands of the park and surroundings.

Scarlet bee balm, Monarda didyma, is an herbaceous perennial in the mint family, Lamiaceae. It is native to eastern North America and especially at home in moist woods, stream margins, thickets, and bottomlands. Its square stems, opposite serrated leaves, and aromatic oils disclose its kinship with other mints. Beneath the soil, spreading rhizomes enable it to form colonies. What appears from a distance to be one shaggy flower is actually a crowded head of many narrow, two-lipped flowers, each offering its own small entrance to nectar.

Scarlet Bee Balm rewards a close inspection

The scarlet tubes are beautifully suited to the ruby-throated hummingbird. A bird hovering before the flower reaches into the corolla with its long bill and carries pollen away on its head, becoming for a moment part of the plant’s reproductive life. Bumblebees, butterflies, and moths also visit. Members of the genus support several specialized native bees, while the dead hollow stems can provide nesting places for stem-nesting species. Even after flowering, therefore, bee balm continues to participate in the forest community. Its importance is not exhausted by its beauty.

Nipplewort growing among Scarlet Bee Balm

Humans have also entered into a long relationship with Monarda didyma. One of its common names, Oswego tea, remembers its use by the Oswego people of New York, who prepared the aromatic leaves as a beverage. Indigenous communities employed bee balm in varied medicinal traditions, and later settlers adopted it for teas and household remedies. Its leaves and edible flowers have been used to flavor jellies, soups, stews, and fruit dishes. Thymol, a component associated with Monarda oils, has found use in commercial antiseptic preparations. These histories deepen the encounter. The plant is a bearer of ecological and cultural memory, current posibilities. It is best to check with local regulations as foraging and collecting is regulated in New York Park lands.

Eastern bottlebrush grass offers a quieter kind of revelation. A native, cool-season perennial of the grass family, Poaceae, Elymus hystrix inhabits deciduous woods and shaded edges across much of eastern and central North America. Its specific name, hystrix, means “hedgehog,” an affectionate description of the long, radiating awns that give each seed head its bristling form. In the photograph, those awns catch the light so finely that the plant seems drawn with green wire against the luminous forest. Unlike bee balm, it does not advertise to hummingbirds or bees. Its flowers are wind-pollinated, their pale anthers releasing pollen into the moving air.

Bottlebruxh Grass catching afternoon dappled forest light

Where bee balm calls to birds and insects with color and nectar, bottlebrush grass entrusts its pollen to the wind. Its flowering is easily overlooked because grasses seldom conform to our habitual idea of a flower. There are no bright petals, no perfume meant to attract an animal visitor. Pale anthers emerge, air moves through the open spikelets, and pollen passes invisibly from plant to plant. Its apparent simplicity is the refinement of a different evolutionary strategy.

Bottlebrush grass sustains other lives in less conspicuous ways. Its foliage feeds the caterpillars of the northern pearly-eye butterfly and several moth species. Birds and white-footed mice eat its seeds, while grazing animals browse the tender young leaves. Its fibrous roots help hold woodland soil, and its tolerance of shade allows it to flourish beneath a leafy canopy where many grasses cannot. Cornell Botanic Gardens also records a Haudenosaunee practice involving a preparation of its leaves and reed-grass rootstocks in treating corn seed before planting—another meeting of botanical and cultural knowledge.

Today Elymus hystrix is increasingly welcomed into native woodland gardens, naturalized plantings, and erosion-control areas. Its seed heads bring movement and texture to shaded landscapes and can be used in floral arrangements. Monarda didyma, meanwhile, has become a familiar inhabitant of pollinator gardens and rain gardens. Cultivated thoughtfully, both plants allow a human landscape to recover some of the relationships present in a functioning woodland: roots securing soil, insects finding food, birds gathering seed, and seasons being permitted to complete themselves.

Encountered together, the two plants seemed to embody complementary ways of belonging. Scarlet bee balm was ardor made visible—bright, aromatic, and alive with invitation. Eastern bottlebrush was reticence and patience, revealing its elegance only to a lingering eye. One reached outward through color; the other surrendered itself to wind.

The afternoon’s discoveries thus offered two ways of being visible. Monarda didyma flared outward—scarlet, aromatic, thronged with visitors. Elymus hystrix waited for a shaft of light and an attentive eye. Between them lay the shaded South Rim Trail, the bridge, the climbing path, and the patient green world through which they conduct their separate lives. To walk there was to learn again that beauty is relationship: roots holding soil, wind carrying pollen, a hummingbird entering a red corolla, a mouse gathering seed, and a hiker pausing long enough for the forest to become particular.

Click me to visit Michael Stephen Wills Online Finger Lakes Gallery.

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Holding Out, A Day Off, and Nice to See You: Seward Johnson and the Quiet Theater of Time

A selection of photographs from our January 2019 visit to McKee Botanical Gardens, Vero Beach, Indian River County, Florida

MichaelStephenWills7 Comments

Seward Johnson’s figures have a way of surprising us, they seem to have been waiting for us all along. They stand on sidewalks, lean into ordinary errands, pause in gestures we recognize before we understand why. In Holding Out, A Day Off, and Nice to See You, the artist gives us not heroes, saints, or rulers, but people caught in the small ceremonies of daily life: carrying groceries, taking a pause, greeting another human being. They are bronze, yet they seem to breathe the air of our own passing afternoons. Our grandson’s first impression of Nice to See You was, “How often do they wash his clothes?”

Johnson, born in New Jersey in 1930, became known for life-size painted bronze figures that bring art out of the museum and into public space. His Celebrating the Familiar series does exactly what the title promises. It asks us to look again at what we normally overlook. A person resting. A woman burdened with bags. A meeting on the street. These are not dramatic events, yet they are the substance from which a life is made.

That may be why these sculptures move me. They are comic, playful at first glance. One expects the figure to turn, shift weight, apologize for blocking the way. But the longer I look, the more the humor gives way to tenderness. Johnson’s realism is emotional as well as technical. Postures are caught before the sentence, the hand before the reply, the pause before someone walks away.

Holding Out suggests the labor of ordinary devotion. The figure carries the evidence of errands, appetite, domestic obligation, perhaps generosity. Groceries are never merely groceries. They are meals not yet cooked, tables not yet set, bodies cared for, conversations expected. To carry food home is to participate in one of the oldest forms of love. There is fatigue in such a pose, but also purpose. The sculpture reminds me how much of family life is carried without ceremony.

“Holding Out”

A Day Off speaks in a different key. A day off is supposed to be freedom, yet even leisure has its burden. Time, once unstructured, can feel strangely precious. We plan to rest, then discover that rest asks something of us: the courage to stop, to let the world proceed without our supervision. Johnson’s figure becomes a meditation on the fragile privilege of an unclaimed hour. The sculpture seems to ask whether we know how to receive such a gift when it comes.

J
“A Day Off”

Then there is Nice to See You, a title so simple it nearly disappears into politeness. Yet those four words contain an entire philosophy of relationship. To say “nice to see you” is to acknowledge absence, survival, return. It may be said casually on a sidewalk, but beneath it lies the deeper knowledge that people do vanish from our daily routes. Friends move away. Children grow into distant schedules. Parents and grandparents become memories. Even neighbors, once familiar as weather, can pass out of our lives without a formal goodbye, not to be returned by a simple cleaning of the glass.

“Nice to See You”

The greeting matters because time has been at work between meetings. The person we see again is never exactly the one we last saw. Nor are we the same person doing the seeing. Every reunion, however ordinary, is also a small reckoning with change.

That is the quiet power of Johnson’s public art. His figures appear fixed, but they make us aware of motion: our own. We walk around them. We photograph them. We return years later and find them unchanged, while we have altered in ways both visible and hidden. Bronze preserves the gesture; life revises the viewer.

In this way, the sculptures become companions in memory. They do not explain relationships; they stage them. They show that affection often lives in errands, pauses, greetings, and shared streets. A life together is rarely made of grand declarations. More often it is made of carrying, waiting, recognizing, and returning.

Perhaps that is why these works linger after the first amusement fades. They restore dignity to the unmonumental. They suggest that the passing of time is not only loss, but accumulation. The grocery bag, the free afternoon, the familiar greeting—each becomes a vessel. Each holds what we have given, received, forgotten, and remembered.

Johnson’s people stand still, but they point us toward movement: toward the next errand, the next meeting, the next chance to say, with more feeling than the phrase usually carries, “Nice to see you.”

Click me to visit Michael Stephen Wills Online Finger Lakes Gallery.

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Flowering Quince on West Hill: A Legacy in Coral

Legacy flowering quince on Ithaca’s West Hill blooms in coral-pink spring light, joining family memory, Asian origins, garden ecology, and enduring beauty.

MichaelStephenWills11 Comments

In early spring, before the trees have fully committed themselves to leaf, flowering quince makes its announcement with a theatrical confidence. Against the dark lacework of spruce, bare twigs, old fencing, and the still-waking ground of Ithaca’s West Hill, the blossoms appear like embers held in suspension: coral-pink petals gathered around bright yellow stamens. My photographs, taken in April 2023 and 2026, capture a living inheritance—one planted by Charles and Betty Sprinkle and still answering the calendar long after the original hands that set it in place have passed from the daily life of the garden.

Flowering quince belongs to the genus Chaenomeles, in the rose family, Rosaceae. It is related not only to roses, but also to apples, pears, hawthorns, cherries, and true quince. The common name can be confusing: flowering quince is not the same as the orchard quince, Cydonia oblonga, grown primarily for its large aromatic fruit. Botanists separated Chaenomeles from Cydonia in the nineteenth century, partly on floral and fruit-anatomy differences; in ordinary garden terms, Chaenomeles is the ornamental, early-blooming shrub, while Cydonia is the more familiar fruiting quince tree.

The plant in these photographs is the old-fashioned flowering quinces commonly planted around mid-century homes—possibly Chaenomeles speciosa, one of its cultivars, or a hybrid involving C. speciosa and C. japonica. C. speciosa is native to China, Tibet, and Myanmar, while C. japonica is native to Japan and South Korea; many garden forms have been selected or hybridized for flower color, compactness, and bloom density. The soft rose-pink color here suggests one of the pink-flowered ornamental selections rather than the scarlet-orange forms often illustrated in plant guides.

Its structure is as important as its bloom. Flowering quince is typically a dense, twiggy, deciduous shrub, often with tangled or spiny branches. That architecture is visible in the photographs: a weave of dark stems, new leaves, and blossoms occupying the middle layer of the garden, neither groundcover nor tree, but a persistent shrub-wall of spring. In older plantings, such shrubs can become almost sculptural, their branches accumulating years of pruning, browsing, weather, and recovery. The thorns, absent in our planting, are part of some quince varietys defensive character and can explain its frequent use as a barrier hedge or boundary planting.

Ecologically, flowering quince is most valuable because of its timing. It blooms very early—often late March into April in temperate gardens—when many woody plants are still dormant and early insects are beginning to forage. Its open, bowl-shaped flowers present pollen accessibly, and the golden stamens in these images show why bees and other early pollinators may visit. In a cold-spring landscape like Ithaca, a shrub that blooms before the canopy closes and before herbaceous growth thickens can become a small seasonal resource station. The plant is not native to New York, so it does not occupy the same ecological role as serviceberry, spicebush, willow, or native cherries; nevertheless, in a settled garden, it participates in the spring economy of nectar, pollen, shelter, and fruit.

After bloom, flowering quince may produce hard, yellow-green, apple-like fruits. These can be too hard and tart to enjoy raw, but they have traditionally been used in preserves, jellies, and cooked preparations, much like true quince. We have yet to enjoy the fruits of this plant in this way.

The success of our quince in Ithaca is not surprising. Flowering quince is notably tough: tolerant of cold winters, urban edges, clay or loam soils, and partial shade, though it blooms best with good sun. The shrubs prefer reasonably well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soils and may object to strongly alkaline conditions. On West Hill, where our home holds layered plantings of conifers, shrubs, fences, paths, and family memory, it fits the vernacular garden perfectly—durable, somewhat unruly, generous in season, and never entirely domesticated.

What my photographs gather in their emotional force is the contrast between delicacy and persistence. Each blossom looks temporary, almost papery, the petals thin enough to hold sunlight. Yet the shrub itself is a survivor. It has endured winters, dry spells, shade competition, pruning, neglect, and the ordinary upheavals of family life. Charles and Betty Sprinkle planted it for beauty and simple spring pleasure. Decades later, it continues to bloom on their behalf.

In that sense, flowering quince is a fitting legacy plant. It does not ask for ceremony. It returns by season rather than by command. One April afternoon it is just bare stems and swelling buds; another, it becomes a spray of coral lights beneath the evergreens. Its flowers open into the cool air of Ithaca, briefly bright, then gone—yet the shrub remains, holding memory in wood, root, and bloom.

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A Ride to Reavis Ranch

Some history and exploration

MichaelStephenWills16 Comments

….continued from the chapter “Desert Luxuries”

After hitching the saddled buckskin, named “Nugget,” and lightly packed pinto to trees beside the trail, The Searcher climbed up to my camp for a visit. I started water for tea and soon we were chatting. Right from the start The Searcher asked for privacy. Devoted to searching the Superstitions for the gold of the “Lost Dutchman Mine,” he organized his expeditions from a staging point near Phoenix and spent nearly sixty days each year in the wilderness. Part of his preparation was a desert survival course provided by the Reavis Mountain School, conducted by Peter Bigfoot.

An Invitation from The Searcher

The Searcher described a place near Pine Creek, he called it “Circlestone,” a large, almost perfect circle of precisely fitted stone walls, on the slopes of Mound Mountain above the headwaters of Pine Creek. My sister, Diane, and I found Circlestone on backpack expeditions March and November 2006. WThe site exceeded our expectations, the walls appeared less built than patiently persuaded from the mountain itself.

Here is a panorama from March 2006, southwest from the forests of juniper and pinion on the slopes of Mound Mountain.. The southern tip of Reavis Valley is to the right, from there Arizona Trail lead to White Mountain in the distance. It was taken on a later trip, in November of 2006 when my sister, Diane, and I visited Circlestone.

Click any photograph for a larger image.

The Searcher also told of Elisha Marcus Reavis, who settled the Valley west of Pine Creek in 1874. At one point, a band of Apaches planned to kill Reavis, but were respectful of his reputation as a rifle shot. They were waiting him out across from the his dugout, when Reavis stripped naked and, with wild hair and a flaming red beard, charged their camp, knives in both hands. The Apaches rode off, wary of his insane behavior, and never bothered him again.

We talked about my prospects and plans when The Searcher offered to take me to the Reavis Valley the next day, on horseback. There is a large apple orchard there and, this being April, we’d be treated to masses of apple blossoms. The day after Reavis Ranch, I could pack out with him down the Arizona Trail, past the Reavis Mountain School, over Campaign Creek and drive back to the Lost Dutchman Park. I readily agreed.

To Reavis Ranch on Horseback

The following morning rose slowly from colorless darkness, accompanied by thin birdsong and the whitening glow of high clouds. When the Searcher arrived around 8 am he was leading the pinto, introduced as Colorado, equipped with a western saddle instead of a pack. As an absolute novice trail rider, I rode while The Searcher held Colorado’s lead rope. The reins were wrapped around the saddle horn, leaving me to hang on and enjoy the view and the swishing tail of Nugget, the buckskin.

The 2.5 mile trail to Reavis from Pine Creek is typical of the eastern Superstitions, minimally improved, dramatically uneven, littered with boulders polished smooth by decades of hooves, floodwater, and erosion. From Pine Creek there’s a climb of a 631 feet to a 5,278 foot elevation, where the trail meanders beneath a dramatic red cliff with a view of the pinyon/juniper forests on the slopes of Mound Mountain. As he picked our way, The Searcher pointed out the sights. “Circlestone is somewhere over there, a ring of stones overgrown with Alligator Juniper.” I could do little more than observe; photography was entirely out of the question. The trail twisted around the mountain like a dry stream remembering water.

A cliff along the trail to Reavis Ranch offered the ledges and shadowed cover preferred by cougars. In daylight it posed little danger to mounted riders, and attacks against horses were rare. In all our years in Arizona, neither of us had seen more than the tip of a tail slipping behind brush.

This had been a lush April after a wet winter, and small game was plentiful. Only a sick cat would have been desperate enough to stalk horses. The darker possibility—a cougar infected with rabies after encountering a diseased animal at a water source—was a thought neither of us lingered on for long.

Eventually, the path descended steeply to Reavis Creek, the valley floor and intersected with the Reavis Ranch trail. Heading south the Reavis Ranch trail passes the site of a long abandoned ranch. What remained of the adobe and stone ranch house stood on a level bench overlooking what had once been the corral and a broad open meadow.

Open field at near the juncture of the trail from Pine Creek with the Reavis Ranch trail.

Apple trees in bloom sween from the former site of the ranch house. There used to be a pond near this spot. With a little imagination, the trail from Pine Creek can be seen on the far ridge.

Reavis Ranch Trail, foreground, traverses the valley length north to south. The Arizona Trail from Pine Creek following below the red rock cliffs in the distance.

The US Forest Service razed the building after it “burned to the ground” Thanksgiving 1991. I would not call what is left “a foundation,” it is a platform where the house stood. In the photograph, the surviving tiles still suggest the modest warmth of a lived-in home. I’ve seen old photographs of the structure with a large pond to the left of this view, a door and simple porch face east and the pond used to hold irrigation water. The leveled ruin possessed the melancholy geometry of abandoned human hope.

Turning from the ruin, another structure came into view. Built into the western slope above the valley floor was a hexagonal adobe foundation overlooking the remains of the ranch house across the trail.

My interpretation rests partly on the surrounding terrain. South of the structure runs the shallow trace of an excavated canal, suggesting that water from upper Reavis Creek—or one of its tributaries—was diverted into a catchment basin before being stored or directed toward irrigation.

Whatever its exact purpose, the site commands sweeping views of the central valley and is a beautiful place to watch evening settle over the orchard.

Turning from the ruin, another structure came into view. Built into the western slope above the valley floor was a hexagonal adobe foundation overlooking the remains of the ranch house across the trail.

The Searcher led me to a place a few hundred yards south, in a narrowing of the valley, where he let Colorado and Nugget roam free. The horses appreciated the level, open spaces and I enjoyed the Ponderosa pines on the west valley slope. We sat on the smooth trunks of fallen trees, 4 feet in diameter, near Reavis Creek.

Colorado took this opportunity to bolt, headed south. We took off after him into and through a thicket of locust trees where The Searcher cornered Colorado to regain control. “He was abused by a previous owner and can be difficult at times” was how The Searcher put it.

We were close to the end of Reavis Valley where Reavis Creek originates from the drainage of White Mountain, to the west.

We headed north here, back to the ranch house site, to the lush new grass of the apple orchard.

Nugget in Horse Heaven

Nugget grazed, tethered with plenty of slack, with the calm assurance of an animal that knew it had arrived in horse heaven. This photograph of the pair shows their personalities, Colorado edgy, Nugget content to feast while the grass is available. The orchard grass rolled in waves around their legs like green water beneath anchored boats.

Colorado on the alert while Nugget grazes, typical of their personalities.

Click me for the next post for photographs and more history of this Apple Orchard in the Superstition Wilderness.

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McLean Bogs in Early Spring: Pitcher Plants, Skunk Cabbage, a Quiet Walk with Grandchildren

A quiet early spring walk through McLean Bogs reveals pitcher plants, skunk cabbage, and the subtle beauty of glacial wetlands shared with grandchildren.

MichaelStephenWills14 Comments

The path into McLean Bogs begins without ceremony, a narrowing of the world. The road falls away, the trees gather closer, and the ground softens underfoot, remembering water. You arrive at a threshold. The air seems altered, quieter, carrying a faint mineral stillness, as though the glacier that shaped this place has not entirely withdrawn its presence.

McLean Bog, Tompkins County, New York State part of Cornell Botanical Gardens

The pond holds the sky with patient fidelity. Its surface is dark, reflective, contemplative—mirroring a band of bare trees and the pale sweep of early-spring cloud. Nothing disturbs it. No wind, no bird, no ripple of urgency. It is the kind of water that asks nothing of you except attention. And in giving it, you feel the pace of your own thoughts begin to slow, as if they too must match the bog’s ancient tempo.

At the edge, grasses stand in muted gold, last year’s growth bowed but not broken. They frame the water as do an unfinished sentence. You can imagine how, in another month, this quiet will be interrupted by green—by the rising insistence of life. But today, the landscape is held in suspension, between endings and beginnings.

On the boardwalk, my grandsons, Sam and Rory, find what the place offers most readily: evidence. A small gray pellet of fur and bone delicately assembled and then discarded. Nearby, a twisting length of scat, marked with the unmistakable language of survival. These are not the symbols we teach in books, but they are legible all the same. The boys lean close, curious, unbothered by what adults might turn away from. To them, this is not unpleasant—it is a clue, a message left behind by an unseen life moving through the same narrow corridors of forest and marsh.

There is something honest in that exchange. The bog does not disguise itself. It offers no curated beauty, no ornamental flourish. What it gives instead is continuity—the quiet assurance that life persists in forms both delicate and stark. And the children, without pretense, receive it as it is.

Deeper in the woods, a small structure of branches rises against the trunk of a tree, a lean-to, improvised and incomplete. Its architecture is simple, almost instinctive, a tentative answer to the question of shelter. Sam and Rory stand before it, boots sunk slightly in the soft ground, their bodies close together in that unconscious gesture of kinship. One leans into the other, not for support exactly, but for connection.

Behind them, the forest extends in gray and brown, a lattice of trunks and fallen limbs. It is not the lush abundance of summer, but something more revealing—a stripped-down anatomy of place. Here you see the bones of the landscape, the structure beneath the surface. And in that exposure, there is a different kind of beauty, one relies on form, on persistence, on time itself.

The boardwalk carries you out into the open bog, where the ground gives way to water and moss. It is a narrow path, elevated just enough to allow passage, and it bends gently, as though respecting the terrain rather than imposing upon it. Rory walks ahead, small against the expanse, following the curve without question. There is trust in that movement—the simple faith that the path will hold, that it leads somewhere worth going.

The path is flooded
Your task: find pitcher plants in the middle distance

Around you, the bog stretches in subtle variation. Patches of standing water reflect a green that seems almost improbable in this season, the work of mosses and algae that thrive where others cannot. The vegetation is low, dense, textured—a mosaic rather than a meadow. And here and there, like small embers against the muted field, the pitchers rise.

The pitcher plants are both beautiful and unsettling. Their deep red forms, veined with intricate patterns, hold themselves open to the world. They are vessels, yes, and thresholds, invitations with consequence. Insects, drawn by color or scent, enter and do not leave. It is easy to think of them as passive, but they are anything but. They are active participants in the exchange of life, taking what the poor soil cannot provide.

You kneel to look more closely, drawn in despite yourself. The interior of the pitcher is a map of intention—every line, every curve serving a purpose. And yet, there is an elegance to it, a precision that feels almost artistic. It is not cruelty, exactly, but necessity rendered with a kind of quiet grace.

McLean Bog, Tompkins County, New York State part of Cornell Botanical Gardens

Elsewhere, the first signs of skunk cabbage emerge, their dark, curved forms pushing through saturated ground. They are early risers, indifferent to cold, generating their own heat to break through frost. They do not wait for spring; they create their own version of it. Scattered across the forest floor, they resemble a field of small, listening shapes—each one a declaration that life does not always arrive gently.

And so you move through the bog as a participant in its slow unfolding. Sam and Rory run ahead, then return, their boots muddy, their hands full of nothing in particular. They do not need to name what they have seen. The experience is enough.

As we return to the preserve edge, this sign stands—formal, declarative, assigning significance in the language of designation: Registered Natural Landmark. This place is important, rare, worthy of protection. But the words feel almost secondary after what you have just walked through.

McLEAN BOGS has been designated a REGISTERED NATURAL LANDMARK

This site possesses exceptional value as an illustration of the nation’s natural heritage and contributes to a better understanding of man’s environment.
National Park Service, United States Department of the Interior 1973.

Because the true measure of McLean Bogs is not in its classification, but in its effect. It changes the rhythm of your thinking. It draws your attention downward—to the ground beneath your feet, to the subtle movements of water and growth, to the quiet negotiations of life that continues with or without witnesses.

And perhaps that is what Thoreau meant, though he said it more simply: that heaven is not only above us, distant and abstract, but also here, immediate and tangible, woven into the fabric of the earth itself.

In the bog, that idea does not feel like metaphor. It feels like observation.

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Where Winter Yields: Skunk Cabbage, Pitcher Plants, and Milky Ice at Malloryville Preserve

A late winter walk through Malloryville Preserve reveals milky ice, emerging skunk cabbage, and hidden wetland life—seen through the curious eyes of grandchildren.

MichaelStephenWills9 Comments

The morning began in that quiet register peculiar to late winter in the Finger Lakes—when the calendar insists on spring, yet the land, still half-claimed by frost, speaks in a more cautious dialect. At the O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville, the woods held both seasons in tension. Snow lingered in shaded hollows, while the exposed ground, damp and rust-colored, breathed with thaw.

Sam and Rory—boots muddied almost immediately—climbed atop a great, weathered stump, its cut face fanned with the geometry of years. There is something about a stump that invites children upward, as though it were not a remnant but a stage. From their perch they surveyed a kingdom of bare trunks and quiet trails, their laughter momentarily lifting the stillness. Behind them, the forest rose in gray-brown columns, and beneath them, the history of a tree—rings like a clock no one can wind backward.

We moved downslope toward the seepage-fed lowlands that give this preserve its particular character. Here, the ground softens, water gathers, and winter lingers longer in pockets of ice that seem reluctant to relinquish their hold. The ice itself told a story—not clear and crystalline, but cloudy, milky, almost opalescent. This opacity is the signature of trapped air, minute bubbles frozen in suspension as water repeatedly melts and refreezes. Each cycle interrupts the orderly lattice of ice, scattering light and transforming transparency into a pale, diffused glow. It is ice that remembers its instability.

Threading through this ice were narrow rivulets of meltwater, tracing paths around moss-covered hummocks. These islands—bright green even in winter—rose like miniature continents in a frozen sea. On one such hummock, we found this skunk cabbage. Its mottled spathe, deep maroon flecked with yellow, pushed upward through the cold, its form both alien and ancient. I pointed out to the boys that this plant generates its own heat—a metabolic furnace capable of melting the surrounding snow. It is one of the earliest heralds of spring, though it announces itself not with color alone, but with scent—a pungency that walked with us that day.

Nearby, nestled in the sphagnum, were the pitcher plants—Sarracenia purpurea—their tubular leaves tinged with winter’s reds and greens. Even in dormancy, they held their form, each pitcher a small reservoir. I explained how these plants supplement the nutrient-poor conditions of the bog by capturing insects, their modified leaves forming a subtle trap. The boys leaned in, curious, perhaps imagining the unseen dramas that would unfold here in warmer months.

The North American genus Sarracenia are the trumpet pitchers, which have a more complex trap than Heliamphora, with an operculum, which prevents excess accumulation of rainwater in most of the species.

The wetland was a place of plants and textures. The ice thinned near the edges, revealing water beneath that reflected the vertical lines of trees above. Droplets fell intermittently from branches, punctuating the quiet with soft, irregular taps. It was a landscape in transition, each element negotiating its passage from one state to another.

Along a tangle of shrubs, I noticed an unusual growth—a dense, broom-like cluster of twigs protruding from what appeared to be a highbush blueberry. This “witches’ broom” is often the result of fungal infection or other physiological stress, causing the plant to produce a profusion of shoots from a single point. To a child’s eye, it might seem like a bird’s nest or some deliberate construction, but it is, in fact, the plant’s own altered architecture—a distortion that nonetheless becomes part of the ecosystem, offering shelter to small creatures.

Further along, a fallen log bore the layered forms of shelf fungi, each bracket extending outward like a series of pages half-opened. Their colors—muted tans and browns—blended with the wood, yet their structure was unmistakable. These polypores are the quiet recyclers of the forest, breaking down lignin and cellulose, returning the substance of the tree to the soil. I ran my fingers lightly along their surface, feeling the fine texture, while the boys, less cautious, tapped them as though testing their solidity.

On the bark of a nearby tree, we encountered a patch of what looked like pale, fuzzy insulation—the egg mass of the spongy moth. I explained that each of these masses could contain hundreds of eggs, waiting for the warmth of spring to hatch. It was a reminder that even in this subdued season, the next wave of life was already prepared, concealed in plain sight.

As we made our way back, the boys’ boots squelched in the soft ground, their earlier perch on the stump now a distant memory. Yet the morning had offered them—and me—something more enduring than a climb. It had revealed a landscape in flux, where ice is not merely frozen water but a record of change, where plants defy cold through chemistry, and where even decay participates in renewal.

Late winter, in a place like Malloryville, is not an absence of life but a study in persistence. It asks for attention, for patience, and for a willingness to see beauty in transition. Walking with Sam and Rory, I was reminded that discovery does not wait for spring. It is already here, written in ice, moss, and the quiet industry of the forest.

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Memories of Valentine’s Day: Family Beginnings and a Lifetime of Shared Journeys

A Valentine’s Day reflection spanning childhood, family, and partnership—where a homemade cake, a living room, and an ocean voyage reveal love’s enduring thread.

MichaelStephenWills16 Comments

Our culture insists that Valentine’s Day is about hearts and chocolates, about gestures that can be wrapped, written, or eaten. My memories tell a longer and more intricate story. Valentine’s Day is thread that runs through decades—binding childhood, family, and shared journeys into a single, evolving narrative.

An early Valentine’s Day memory of mine is anchored in a living room at 107 Deepdale Parkway in Albertson, New York. It is 1959. The room is familiar and ordinary, yet in memory it glows with a particular warmth. My sister Theresa is two, Christine is four, and I am five. We are gathered together, small figures in a modest suburban home, unaware that this fleeting domestic moment will outlast nearly everything else in the room. What I remember most is not an event, but a feeling: the sense of being held within something stable and loving, a family rhythm that proved enduring.

Theresa (2), Michael (5), Christine (4) in the livingroom of 107 Deepdale Parkway, Albertson, New York on Valentines Day 1959

As the years passed, Valentine’s Day shifted its shape, as it does for everyone. Childhood gave way to adolescence, and later to adulthood, when the holiday began to carry expectations and interpretations shaped by romance and partnership. Yet even then, my earliest associations lingered beneath the surface. Valentine’s Day was was beyond an exchange between two people; it was about continuity, about the quiet reassurance that one was part of a larger story.

A part of our celebration this Valentine’s Day cake—chocolate, homemade, and unapologetically generous.  Baked by my wife, Pamela, whose acts of care often expressed themselves through the kitchen. The cake was not elaborate by modern standards, but it does not need to be. Its value lay in what it represented: time taken, effort given, and love made tangible. Long after the plates are washed, the memory of that cake remains inseparable from the idea of Valentine’s Day itself. Love, I learned early, could be simple, nourishing, and shared.

Chocolate Valentines Day cake by Pamela Wills

That understanding deepened over time, especially through my life with Pam. One Valentine’s Day memory stands apart not for its extravagance, but for its improbability. Pam and I found ourselves aboard the Oceania ship “Regatta”, sailing the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Chile. The vastness of the water, the steady rhythm of the ship, and the sense of being suspended between sky and sea created a striking contrast to the small living room of my childhood. Yet the emotional register was remarkably similar. Once again, Valentine’s Day was marked not by spectacle, but by presence.

The following day we reached Puerto Montt, a port city framed by water and volcanoes. The journey itself became a metaphor for the way love matures. Where childhood love had been rooted in home and routine, this later expression unfolded through shared experience and mutual trust. Standing on the deck together, watching the coastline emerge, I was struck by how Valentine’s Day had come to encompasses where we had been and where we were going.

Pam and I aboard the Oceania Regatta sailing the Pacific Ocean off Chile. The following day we reached Puerto Montt.

In that sense, Valentine’s Day functions much like memory itself. It selects certain moments and holds them fast, allowing others to fade. A cake, three young children in a living room, two partners standing together on the open sea. These are not scenes one could have predicted would endure, yet they do, because they are threaded with care, attention, and shared time.

Now, looking back across the span of years, I understand Valentine’s Day as a recurring prompt that asks us to remember where love first took root, how it was tended, and how it has carried us forward. The details change, but the essence remains remarkably constant.

In the end, Valentine’s Day does not demand grand gestures or perfect words. It asks only that we recognize the quiet continuity of love as it moves through our lives—sometimes in a childhood living room, sometimes on the open ocean, always leaving its mark in ways we only fully understand in retrospect.

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Bells for Christmas

The symbolic power of the numeral three, reflected in various cultural, religious, and secular contexts, underscores its universal significance. From the mystical trinities of gods to the practical applications in rhetoric and storytelling, and the fundamental structure of our physical world, the number three resonates with a sense of completeness, balance, and harmony. Its pervasive presence in different aspects of human thought and culture attests to its enduring and profound symbolism.

MichaelStephenWills40 Comments

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