Exploring Taughannock Falls State Park: September Light in the Finger Lakes

A September walk at Taughannock Falls reveals layered cliffs, white snakeroot, drifting clouds, Cayuga Lake, and the quiet threshold between summer and autumn.

On September 14, 2026, Taughannock held itself between seasons. Summer had not yet departed; autumn had not yet claimed the gorge. The trees still wore their full green abundance. Yet, here and there, high on the rims and tucked into the ravine walls, yellow had begun its quiet work. I experienced it as hints, as first thoughts, as small flames beginning among the maples and shrubs.

The view from the South Rim Trail. From a walk around Taughannock Falls State Park, down the South rim Trail, up the North Rim Trail. September 14, 2026

The gorge opened first as architecture: a long cleft of layered stone, inhuman shades of gray, cut by water through an immensity of time. From the rim, the creek below seemed almost modest, a brown-green ribbon moving through a corridor it had patiently made. The cliffs did not appear carved so much as remembered into shape. Bed after bed, ledge after ledge, they held the ancient sea in their faces. The rock seemed written in lines, a ledger of vanished depths, pressure, uplift, frost, collapse, and flow. Trees clung wherever they could. Roots found cracks. Cedars leaned over voids. Hardwood trunks rose from impossible perches, answering stone with leaf.

An extravagant sky above all. This blue, saturated and clean, carried great white clouds across the park like slow, wandering thoughts; too soft for a place so sternly cut by geology. Yet that contrast is part of Taughannock’s power: air and stone, cloud and shale, the brief and the enduring sharing one frame. The clouds drifted without urgency while the gorge below testified to forces that measure themselves in millennia. Standing there, the human mind is pulled in two directions at once—toward the fleeting weather of the day and toward the deep patience of the earth.

Snakeroot, a poisonous perennial herb

Along the wooded trail, the eye dropped from grandeur to intimacy. White snakeroot bloomed in loose clusters, each tiny flower a small, tufted star gathered into a milky constellation above serrated leaves. Behind it, the forest glowed with the filtered green light of late summer. Goldenrod rose farther back, blurred into warmth. The plants seemed not lesser than the falls or cliffs, only quieter. Requiring a different scale of attention. The gorge overwhelms; the flower invites. One must bend inward to see it properly.

Seen from the South Rim Trail.

Through the trees, Cayuga Lake appeared like a blue promise beyond the gorge. Branches crossed the view in dark strokes, turning the scene into a natural stained-glass window: cliff, water, sky, leaf. The lake lay beyond the ravine’s mouth, broad and reflective, suggesting release after confinement. The creek that had moved through shadow and stone would eventually find that open water. There was comfort in that progression: narrowness giving way to breadth, descent becoming arrival.

Mouth of Taughannock Creek as it enters Cayuga Lake

At the lakeside, the mood changed again. The same day, the same park, but another world. A green lawn sloped toward the water, bordered by trees heavy with leaves. The lake opened between them, wind-textured and blue-gray beneath the marching clouds. The place felt pastoral after the sternness of the gorge. Here the land breathed easily: gorge cliffs were replaced by open distance, by the far shore softened with trees and scattered houses. The park became a threshold between cultivated calm and wild excavation.

I enjoy the layered effects of clouds.

Then the camera turned upward, giving the sky its own portrait. The clouds took on presence, no longer background but subject—rounded, luminous, casting faint shadows upon themselves. Below them, lake and shore narrowed into a band, as though the world had been rearranged so that sky could speak first. There is a kind of mercy in such a sky. It loosens the mind. It reminds us that even above a gorge, above evidence of erosion and collapse, there is spaciousness.

Black Swallow-wort (Vincetoxicum nigrum). Found along the North Rim Trail.

Among the cedars, split pods had released their silk. Pale filaments caught on rough branches and evergreen sprays, small scraps of flight arrested in mid-escape. The pods hung dry and curled, their work nearly done. Seeds that had been hidden were now entrusted to air. This, too, was September’s language: opening, loosening, letting go. Not the dramatic fall of leaves yet, but a subtler surrender. The season had begun to unfasten its clasps.

A view from the North Rim Trail.

From another rim view, the gorge wall rose in broken columns and pale faces, half-covered by green. Vegetation softened the precipice but did not conceal it. The cliff remained adamant, a vertical memory of water’s persistence. Far below, the creek bent through bars of exposed stone, and tiny figures on the gorge floor gave scale to the scene. The people were scarcely marks against the immensity, yet their presence mattered. They reminded the eye that wonder is not abstract. Someone stands there, looks up, and receives the place.

The visitors are on the overlook, in the gorge on the bridge and below the falls.

At the overlook, Taughannock Falls appeared framed by stone and leaf, descending in a long white irrepressible column into the dark basin below. The falls seemed both powerful and delicate, a veil and a force. Water dropped from the high lip in strands, gathered itself in motion, then shattered into mist and sound. Around it, the cliffs bore stains, fractures, alcoves, and ledges—the wounds and ornaments made by time. Layers of visitors receed in the foreground, small and temporary, held for a moment before the great amphitheater.

For this view proceed south on the North Rim Trail from the observation area parking. Did you spot the gathering of crows?

Farther along the North Rim Trail, the falls filled the vision. Sunlight touched the rim above; shadow deepened the plunge pool below. The water seemed to fall from brightness into mystery. That is often how memory works: a clear edge, a shining beginning, then a descent into depths we cannot entirely see. Yet the sound continues. The motion continues. The stream that vanishes in shadow reappears downstream, moving toward the lake.

For me, what remains from this walk is a whole sequence: cliff and cloud, snakeroot and seed silk, lake and lawn, distant figures and enduring stone. Taughannock on September 14, 2026, offered no single lesson. It offered a composition of scale. The vast does not cancel the small. The flower belongs beside the gorge. The seed silk belongs beside the falls. The human figure belongs, briefly, gratefully, at the overlook.

By God’s Grace the water keeps falling.

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From Thimbleweed to Canada Anemone: Wildflower Photography in the Finger Lakes

White anemones at Malloryville and Treman reveal thimbleweed and Canada anemone through intimate portraits, shifting light, woodland edges, and quiet transformation from bloom to seed.

Along the long defunct railroad right of way at the O. D. von Engeln Preserve in Malloryville, Tompkins County, my 2005 photographs in the following gallery show thimbleweed, Anemone virginiana, in a world of green stillness. Made with a tripod-mounted Sony DSC-F828, they have the patient intimacy of deliberate looking. The camera holds close to one flower, then another stage of the same life, as if time itself had paused among the stems. One bloom faces the lens like a small moon with a green-gold sun at its center. Buds stand nearby, closed and expectant, like folded letters. Later frames reveal the flower after weather and time have touched it: sepals lifted and worn, stamens loosened, dew clinging to the stem, the seed head beginning its bristling ascent. The plant is caught mid-transformation, a white flame becoming a green lantern.

These Thimbleweeds are not white anemones in the soft sense of a spring flower, but tall anemones, thimbleweeds, plants of height, poise, and aftermath. Their most memorable structure is already waiting at the center of the flower: the green cone that will remain when the white sepals have gone. Freshly opened the flower is tender and stippled, ringed by yellow stamens; later it rises alone, armored in fine points, a little tower of continuance. The flower has not vanished. It has changed its language.

My 2005 photographs are portraits, each built from closeness and quiet restraint. The shallow focus turns the surrounding vegetation into a green tide, leaving the thimbleweed suspended in its own clear weather. The tripod’s steadiness gives the images a contemplative gravity. Nothing feels seized. Everything feels attended to. The thin stems become vertical measures in the dim woods, and the pale flowers seem to shine not by brightness alone but by contrast with the shaded world behind them.

More than twenty years later, on June 13, 2026, the photographs from Robert H. Treman State Park near Ithaca offer another kind of seeing. These images, made with an iPhone 14 Pro Max, show Canada anemone, Anemonastrum canadense, along the Gorge Trail. The style is wider, more immediate, more ecological. Instead of isolating a single flower in formal portrait, the camera gathers the colony: white blossoms scattered among sharply cut leaves, stone wall, leaf litter, and the living green of the gorge. The plant is here a constellation at ground level.

These photographs from the Gorge Trail of Robert H. Treman park have the fluency of a walk. They bring us into the place where the flowers grow, letting the eye move from blossom to leaf, from wall to moist soil, from one white face to another. In the close views, the Canada anemone opens with a rounder, simpler grace than the thimbleweed: white petals surrounding a modest green center and delicate yellow anthers. In the wider frames, its leaves make a bright, serrated fabric over the ground, a many-handed greenery receiving the light.

The contrast between the two sets is also a contrast between eras of photography. The Sony images feel like field studies made with ceremony: tripod, fixed attention, a single subject lifted from the woodland dimness. The iPhone images feel like discoveries carried in the hand, the eye moving freely through a living patch of plants. One approach gives us the flower as emblem; the other gives us the flower as citizen of a community. Together they make a fuller truth.

Across a twenty-one-year span, the technology changed dramatically. The 2005 Malloryville series has the patient, close-focus attention of a dedicated camera: ISO 64, small aperture, long exposures, the photographer leaning into stillness. The 2026 Treman images arrive through a phone camera, quick and bright, able to record both blossom and habitat with effortless clarity. Yet the flowers themselves refuse to become dated. These anemone are older than both cameras and indifferent to their sophistication. It keeps its own calendar: bud, bloom, seed, root, return.

Yet the kinship between the plants persists. Both hold white blooms above finely divided leaves. Both belong to the cool, green margins of the Finger Lakes landscape. Both take the ordinary materials of summer, water, shade, stone, soil, and passing light, and make from them a brief astonishment. The thimbleweed raises its solitary green future on a long stem. The Canada anemone spreads its brightness in company. One is a sentence written upward; the other, a page of scattered stars.

The wonder of these anemone is partly structural. Their “petals” are actually petal-like sepals, often five, sometimes more, white and slightly irregular, as if each flower has been hand-torn from light. The yellow stamens ring a green central cone, a small workshop of pollen and future seed. Insects visit for what the flower offers, while the plant asks only for suitable ground and enough room to run. It is not timid. Gardeners know they can spread vigorously, but in the wild that vigor reads differently: not aggression, but insistence. It is the plant saying, “Here is moisture, here is light, here is my chance.”

The photographs also show how much of wildflower beauty lies in context. The pristine frontal bloom is lovely, yes, but so is the closed bud held among vertical stems; so is the aging seed head with spent sepals hanging like weathered pennants; so is the colony rising from a gorge-side floor. Wonder does not reside only in peak bloom. It lives in the before and after, in the green machinery of leaves, in the “almost,” the “not yet,” and the “still becoming.”

To look at the anemone in this way is to be reminded that native plants are actors in the ecological drama of a place: stabilizing soil, feeding insects, responding to light gaps, marking moisture, stitching disturbed edges back into life. Their beauty is functional, and their function is beautiful. A wildflower is never only its moment of bloom. It is bud and blossom, seed and stem, place and weather, memory and return.

These photographs understand that. They show not just flowers, but the disciplined patience of plants: the hush before opening, the radiance of full display, the quiet labor after beauty has done its visible work. In Malloryville, a white flame becomes a green lantern. At Treman, small moons gather beside the stone. And through both, the green world keeps speaking in its oldest memorable phrase: nothing delicate is merely fragile.

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The Wonder of Purple-Flowered Raspberry: Nature’s Thornless Native Treasure

The purple-flowered raspberry is a native shrub that confounds expectations, combining rose-like blossoms, maple-shaped leaves, edible fruit, and thornless stems into one of eastern North America’s most enchanting woodland plants.

I first encountered the purple-flowered raspberry while walking the Gorge Trail at Fillmore Glen State Park. Dry Creek murmured below, working patiently within ancient shale walls that confine its course. Waterfalls spilled from ledges overhead, cool mist drifted through the narrow passage, and sunlight filtered down in shifting patches through the summer canopy. It was a landscape dramatic enough to command all of one’s attention.

Yet it was a flower growing quietly beside the trail that stopped me in my tracks.

Purple-flowered Raspberry Growing Within Treman Gorge by the South Rim Trail

At first glance, I thought I had stumbled upon an escaped garden plant. The blossoms were  impossible to ignore—large, open, and an exuberant shade of rose-purple that glowed against the surrounding green. They seemed too extravagant for the subdued palette of a northeastern woodland. The petals had the simple elegance of wild roses, but there was something else about the plant that resisted easy identification.

The purple-flowered raspberry, Rubus odoratus, is a plant of delightful contradictions. Its blossoms are among the largest in the raspberry family, often two inches across. They appear over an extended season, beginning in early summer and continuing well toward autumn. Unlike the brief fireworks of many woodland wildflowers, this plant stages an encore performance, offering fresh blooms long after others have taken their final bow.

Over the years, I returned often to Fillmore Glen. Dry Creek became an old acquaintance, its voice changing with the seasons—boisterous after spring rains, subdued during the heat of late summer. And almost every year, somewhere along the Gorge Trail, I would encounter those same remarkable shrubs. Familiarity deepened into appreciation, and appreciation eventually became affection.

The flowers also serve a practical purpose beyond their beauty. Native bees and other pollinating insects visit them regularly, gathering nectar and pollen throughout the season. The plant has become part of an intricate ecological conversation that has been unfolding for thousands of years.

Then there are the leaves. The first time I noticed them closely, they triggered another moment of confusion. Broad and softly textured, divided into five lobes, they looked uncannily like oversized maple leaves. Some can grow nearly ten inches across, creating islands of lush greenery along shaded streambanks and woodland edges.

It is as though nature, in one of her playful moods, decided to combine the leaf of a maple, the flower of a rose, and the fruit of a raspberry.

Most raspberries and blackberries demand respect from a distance. Their prickles and thorns snag clothing and skin with equal enthusiasm. Purple-flowered raspberry breaks that expectation as well. Its stems are fuzzy rather than fierce. There are no hooked defenses waiting to punish curiosity. The plant invites close examination.

By late summer, the blossoms yield to flattened red fruits. Technically, they are raspberries, though they lack the sugary richness of their cultivated cousins. I have sampled them occasionally, appreciating them more for the experience than the flavor. Birds, however, are less discriminating. The fruits provide nourishment for wildlife, becoming another thread in the web of life that surrounds Dry Creek and countless other woodland habitats.

Native to eastern North America, purple-flowered raspberry ranges from Nova Scotia westward into Ontario and Wisconsin, extending south through the Appalachian Mountains. It thrives along forest margins, rocky slopes, stream corridors, and disturbed areas where sunlight penetrates the canopy. Through underground shoots, it gradually forms colonies that stabilize soil and provide shelter for small creatures.

It belongs exactly where I first found it. There is a temptation, especially among gardeners, to seek novelty elsewhere—to import the exotic, the unusual, the unfamiliar. Yet some of the most extraordinary plants are those that have quietly shared our landscapes all along.

The purple-flowered raspberry reminds me of this truth each time I encounter it. It teaches the value of paying attention. A hurried walk through Fillmore Glen might focus exclusively on the waterfalls, the sculpted rock formations, or the cool refuge of the gorge itself. All are worthy of admiration. But along the margins of the trail stand these shrubs, offering their own quieter marvels.

My photograph captures all flowering forms of this member of the Rose family. This specimen was blooming in August within the shade of Fillmore Glen in the Finger Lakes of New York State.

A rose-colored flower where one expects white. Maple leaves on a raspberry cane. Soft stems where thorns should be. Fruit that feeds the forest. A native plant that asks for nothing more than the chance to flourish where it has always belonged. Years after that first encounter beside Dry Creek, the sight of those blossoms still stops me as I find them in all the Finger Lakes gorges.

Certain plants become landmarks in our personal geography. They root themselves not only in the soil but in memory. The purple-flowered raspberry has become one of those companions for me—a recurring presence marking the passage of summers, a familiar face in a beloved landscape.

Dry Creek continues its patient work of carving stone. The waterfalls continue to descend in silver ribbons through the gorge. And each year, as if renewing an old friendship, the purple-flowered raspberries lift their improbable blossoms toward the filtered light. In their presence, wonder becomes less an emotion than a habit of attention.

Sometimes the greatest discoveries are not rare because they are hidden. They are rare because we have not yet learned to see them. The purple-flowered raspberry taught me to look more closely. Along a trail I thought I knew by heart, it revealed that nature still keeps delightful surprises in reserve.

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A Ride to Reavis Ranch

Some history and exploration

….continued from the chapter “Desert Luxuries”

After hitching the saddled buckskin, named “Nugget,” and lightly packed pinto to trees beside the trail, The Searcher climbed up to my camp for a visit. I started water for tea and soon we were chatting. Right from the start The Searcher asked for privacy. Devoted to searching the Superstitions for the gold of the “Lost Dutchman Mine,” he organized his expeditions from a staging point near Phoenix and spent nearly sixty days each year in the wilderness. Part of his preparation was a desert survival course provided by the Reavis Mountain School, conducted by Peter Bigfoot.

An Invitation from The Searcher

The Searcher described a place near Pine Creek, he called it “Circlestone,” a large, almost perfect circle of precisely fitted stone walls, on the slopes of Mound Mountain above the headwaters of Pine Creek. My sister, Diane, and I found Circlestone on backpack expeditions March and November 2006. WThe site exceeded our expectations, the walls appeared less built than patiently persuaded from the mountain itself.

Here is a panorama from March 2006, southwest from the forests of juniper and pinion on the slopes of Mound Mountain.. The southern tip of Reavis Valley is to the right, from there Arizona Trail lead to White Mountain in the distance. It was taken on a later trip, in November of 2006 when my sister, Diane, and I visited Circlestone.

Click any photograph for a larger image.

The Searcher also told of Elisha Marcus Reavis, who settled the Valley west of Pine Creek in 1874. At one point, a band of Apaches planned to kill Reavis, but were respectful of his reputation as a rifle shot. They were waiting him out across from the his dugout, when Reavis stripped naked and, with wild hair and a flaming red beard, charged their camp, knives in both hands. The Apaches rode off, wary of his insane behavior, and never bothered him again.

We talked about my prospects and plans when The Searcher offered to take me to the Reavis Valley the next day, on horseback. There is a large apple orchard there and, this being April, we’d be treated to masses of apple blossoms. The day after Reavis Ranch, I could pack out with him down the Arizona Trail, past the Reavis Mountain School, over Campaign Creek and drive back to the Lost Dutchman Park. I readily agreed.

To Reavis Ranch on Horseback

The following morning rose slowly from colorless darkness, accompanied by thin birdsong and the whitening glow of high clouds. When the Searcher arrived around 8 am he was leading the pinto, introduced as Colorado, equipped with a western saddle instead of a pack. As an absolute novice trail rider, I rode while The Searcher held Colorado’s lead rope. The reins were wrapped around the saddle horn, leaving me to hang on and enjoy the view and the swishing tail of Nugget, the buckskin.

The 2.5 mile trail to Reavis from Pine Creek is typical of the eastern Superstitions, minimally improved, dramatically uneven, littered with boulders polished smooth by decades of hooves, floodwater, and erosion. From Pine Creek there’s a climb of a 631 feet to a 5,278 foot elevation, where the trail meanders beneath a dramatic red cliff with a view of the pinyon/juniper forests on the slopes of Mound Mountain. As he picked our way, The Searcher pointed out the sights. “Circlestone is somewhere over there, a ring of stones overgrown with Alligator Juniper.” I could do little more than observe; photography was entirely out of the question. The trail twisted around the mountain like a dry stream remembering water.

A cliff along the trail to Reavis Ranch offered the ledges and shadowed cover preferred by cougars. In daylight it posed little danger to mounted riders, and attacks against horses were rare. In all our years in Arizona, neither of us had seen more than the tip of a tail slipping behind brush.

This had been a lush April after a wet winter, and small game was plentiful. Only a sick cat would have been desperate enough to stalk horses. The darker possibility—a cougar infected with rabies after encountering a diseased animal at a water source—was a thought neither of us lingered on for long.

Eventually, the path descended steeply to Reavis Creek, the valley floor and intersected with the Reavis Ranch trail. Heading south the Reavis Ranch trail passes the site of a long abandoned ranch. What remained of the adobe and stone ranch house stood on a level bench overlooking what had once been the corral and a broad open meadow.

Open field at near the juncture of the trail from Pine Creek with the Reavis Ranch trail.

Apple trees in bloom sween from the former site of the ranch house. There used to be a pond near this spot. With a little imagination, the trail from Pine Creek can be seen on the far ridge.

Reavis Ranch Trail, foreground, traverses the valley length north to south. The Arizona Trail from Pine Creek following below the red rock cliffs in the distance.

The US Forest Service razed the building after it “burned to the ground” Thanksgiving 1991. I would not call what is left “a foundation,” it is a platform where the house stood. In the photograph, the surviving tiles still suggest the modest warmth of a lived-in home. I’ve seen old photographs of the structure with a large pond to the left of this view, a door and simple porch face east and the pond used to hold irrigation water. The leveled ruin possessed the melancholy geometry of abandoned human hope.

Turning from the ruin, another structure came into view. Built into the western slope above the valley floor was a hexagonal adobe foundation overlooking the remains of the ranch house across the trail.

My interpretation rests partly on the surrounding terrain. South of the structure runs the shallow trace of an excavated canal, suggesting that water from upper Reavis Creek—or one of its tributaries—was diverted into a catchment basin before being stored or directed toward irrigation.

Whatever its exact purpose, the site commands sweeping views of the central valley and is a beautiful place to watch evening settle over the orchard.

Turning from the ruin, another structure came into view. Built into the western slope above the valley floor was a hexagonal adobe foundation overlooking the remains of the ranch house across the trail.

The Searcher led me to a place a few hundred yards south, in a narrowing of the valley, where he let Colorado and Nugget roam free. The horses appreciated the level, open spaces and I enjoyed the Ponderosa pines on the west valley slope. We sat on the smooth trunks of fallen trees, 4 feet in diameter, near Reavis Creek.

Colorado took this opportunity to bolt, headed south. We took off after him into and through a thicket of locust trees where The Searcher cornered Colorado to regain control. “He was abused by a previous owner and can be difficult at times” was how The Searcher put it.

We were close to the end of Reavis Valley where Reavis Creek originates from the drainage of White Mountain, to the west.

We headed north here, back to the ranch house site, to the lush new grass of the apple orchard.

Nugget in Horse Heaven

Nugget grazed, tethered with plenty of slack, with the calm assurance of an animal that knew it had arrived in horse heaven. This photograph of the pair shows their personalities, Colorado edgy, Nugget content to feast while the grass is available. The orchard grass rolled in waves around their legs like green water beneath anchored boats.

Colorado on the alert while Nugget grazes, typical of their personalities.

Click me for the next post for photographs and more history of this Apple Orchard in the Superstition Wilderness.

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Hepatica at Fillmore Glen: Quiet Wonders Beneath the Leafless Trees

On a quiet April walk in Fillmore Glen State Park, I found Hepatica acutiloba blooming beneath leafless trees—small, luminous flowers that turned the still-brown woods into a meditation on patience, renewal, and grace.

On April 11, 2026, I walked Fillmore Glen State Park beneath trees still bare, their branches opening the woods to the cool, unguarded light of early spring. The forest had not yet put on its full green speech. Last year’s leaves still covered the ground in shades of russet and tan, and among them, close to the earth, I found Hepatica acutiloba beginning to bloom.

These are flowers that ask for slowness. No one hurrying through the woods would fully see them. I had to kneel, lower myself into their world, and let my eyes adjust to their scale. Only then did they begin to reveal themselves: first as closed buds, pale and self-contained, then as opened white blossoms shining from the leaf litter like small votives in the dim cathedral of the spring woods.

This flower was a light lavender blossoms, still closed, rising from the forest floor on a delicate stems. The sun had reached in, and I made the image handheld, steadying the camera on the ground. Even unopened, it seemed to hold light within itself, as though the day had touched it but not yet persuaded it to unfold. I have always loved that about hepatica. It does not fling itself into spring. It listens first. It waits with an old intelligence, answering warmth and brightness in its own time.

Lavender Hepatica Blossoms, closed

A second cluster of closed blossoms rested among evergreen fern fronds, which appear to be Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides. Their leathery green pinnae, carried through the winter, formed a fitting companion to these early flowers. Together they seemed to embody one of the quiet truths of the April woods: that renewal does not come as a sudden trumpet blast, but by degrees. First the fern still holding its winter green. Then the bud. Then the opening. Then the day when the whole hillside begins to feel like a promise being kept.

White Hepatica Blossoms with Christmas Fern

The last three photographs showed the same group of white hepatica blossoms growing on a south-facing slope beneath a tree root. By then I had placed the camera on my Manfrotto BeFree tripod, and I worked more deliberately, grateful for the patience that such flowers invite. One image was made in sunlight; the others when the sun had passed behind a cloud. That change mattered. In the sun, the white blossoms seemed almost to ring like little bells of light. Under cloud, they grew quieter, softer, more inward. The mood deepened. The exposed root above them became a rough shelter, a woodland lintel, and the blossoms beneath gathered into a hidden chapel of spring.

Hepatica acutiloba in sunlight on an early spring afternoon. Fillmore Glen New York State Park, Cayuga County, Finger Lakes Region, New York State. April 2026

I stood there for a long while, looking not only at the flowers but at the place that had made their blooming possible. A south-facing slope gathers warmth earlier in the season. The root held the bank in place and offered a small measure of protection. The leaf litter insulated the soil. The ferns kept their green nearby. Nothing in such a scene is accidental. The woods are full of these small negotiations between light, temperature, shelter, and time. Hepatica, for all its delicacy, is a master of them.

Here a cloud hid the sun, the blossoms in side view.

We call these flowers spring ephemerals, and the name is true in one sense. Their season of bloom is brief. Before long, the trees overhead will leaf out, and the bright interval in which they thrive will begin to close. Yet “ephemeral” can sound too fragile a word for a plant so well adapted, so seasoned in its timing. Hepatica does not merely appear and vanish. It endures. Its leaves persist through winter. Its flowering is tuned to a narrow ecological opening, one shaped by the still-bare canopy of the deciduous forest. For a few precious weeks, before shade deepens, it steps into the light and makes use of what the season offers.

The sun still hidden by a cloud, the blossoms face on.

Perhaps that is why hepatica has so often found a place in literature and nature writing. It carries a symbolism that feels earned rather than assigned. It arrives when the world still bears winter’s austerity, and so its bloom seems less decorative than revelatory. Generations of observers have seen in such flowers a sign that the year turns first in whispers. Not through spectacle, but through fidelity. A small flower opening under bare branches can change the whole moral weather of a walk.

That was how it felt to me at Fillmore Glen. The woods were still mostly brown and gray, still waiting for leaf and shade and birdsong in full chorus. Yet these blossoms had already crossed some invisible threshold. They were spring in its purest form: not abundance, but inception. Not the full choir, but the first clear note.

Photography, in such moments, becomes for me an act of receiving. The changing light, the choice of aperture, the longer exposures when the sun went behind a cloud, the shift from handholding to bracing to tripod—all of it asked for attention. Hepatica does not yield itself to haste. It asks me to be present enough to notice what kind of light it is standing in, what kind of slope it has chosen, what old leaves still surround it, what green companions remain from winter. The camera only deepens that act of seeing.

I left Fillmore Glen feeling that I had witnessed something both small and immense. These flowers were no larger than a coin, yet they altered the whole forest around them. The leaf litter no longer seemed merely dead, but sheltering. The bare trees no longer seemed empty, but expectant. In the presence of hepatica, the woods felt poised on the edge of utterance.

That may be the lasting wonder of these early blooms. They do not overwhelm. They steady. They remind me that beauty often comes close to the ground, half-hidden, speaking softly. In the leafless woods of April, that soft speech can feel like grace.

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Stones That Traveled: Glacial Erratics, Deep Time, and the Stories They Leave Behind

Glacial erratics are immigrant stones—carried south by ice, dropped without explanation, and left behind to challenge our sense of permanence, place, and deep time.

There are rocks that merely sit where gravity has placed them, and then there are rocks that arrive with stories already embedded—foreign syllables carried south on ice, dropped without explanation, and left for us to puzzle over. Glacial erratics belong to the second category. They are migrants with no passports, refugees of deep time, whose presence quietly contradicts the landscape that hosts them.

Long before anyone reached for a hand lens or an ice-flow diagram, people answered such contradictions with imagination. In Ireland, a boulder perched just so on a mountain side is not a geologic problem but a resting place. Leprechauns, we are told, favor such stones—high enough to observe human intrusion, solid enough to outlast it. Skepticism, as folklore reminds us, is not always a stable position. Kevin Woods—better known as McCoillte—found that out the hard way when doubt collided with experience on the slopes of Slieve Foye. What followed was not merely a conversion story, but an act of modern mythmaking: folklore translated into bureaucracy, imagination petitioning regulation, and “The Last Leprechauns” entering the unlikely language of conservation. Stone, story, and belief hardened together into something oddly durable.

Rocks such as this are a favorite perch for leprechauns to rest and contemplate the works of man who have invaded their world. Inhabitants of Carlingford who wander Slieve Foye have come upon them often enough, their stories and certitude in the existence of the Little People are resistant to manifold doubters with their reasons and arguments. Kevin Woods, aka McCoillte, was a doubter until worked on a stone wall on property he owned on Ghan Road, Carlingford. His belief did not arise on the discovery of the leather purse, covered with ages of dust and lime, nor with the gold coins inside. McCoillte pocketed the coins for luck. As luck would have it, McCoillte loved to walk on Slieve Foye. It was on one such walk he and his dog encountered Little People who paralyzed them to escape. His unexplained absence led to troubles with the wife. This experience brought McCoillte around to enough of a belief that he, with lots of help, succeeded in petitioning the E.U. European Habitats directive to recognize leprechauns a protected species. A reserve was establish on Slieve Foye to protect the “Last Leprechauns” and you can google this phrase to learn more about McCoillte’s stories.

Back in the Finger Lakes, we tend to use a different grammar when confronted by an out-of-place rock. We name it, classify it, and trace its lineage northward. Erratics scattered across Tompkins County are geological sentences that begin somewhere else entirely. The bedrock beneath Ithaca—Devonian shale and sandstone—cannot account for crystalline intruders left behind like forgotten punctuation marks. These stones speak of ice sheets thick enough to erase valleys and decisive enough to transport mountains in fragments.

Some of those fragments have been domesticated. Cornell, for example, has never been shy about rearranging its stones. An unremarked erratic along the Allen Trail may once have been shrugged off as inconvenient rubble, while another—dragged from the Sixmile Creek valley—was carved into a seat and made eloquent. The Tarr memorial boulder, resting near McGraw Hall, transforms erratic stone into deliberate monument. It invites rest, contemplation, and perhaps gratitude for those who taught us how to read landscapes written by glaciers.

We find boulders of crystalline rock, commonly derived from Adirondack sources, left behind on the surface of ablation moraine, in the Finger Lakes Region. Cornell finds some and move them, maybe the case for this unremarked erratic found along the Allen Trail of FR Newman Arboretum. Another enormous erratic, brought in from the Sixmile Creek valley, was carved into a seat as a memorial to Professor R.S. Tarr who deciphered much of the glacial history of the Finger Lakes Region. Find it at the southwest corner of McCraw Hall on the Cornell University Campus. Reference: “The Finger Lakes Region: Its Origin and Nature,” O.D. von Engeln, Cornell University Press, 1961 page 106

Glacial Erratic, Fillmore Glen

Elsewhere, erratics remain defiantly themselves. In winter, one along Fall Creek alternates between anonymity and revelation, depending on whether snow smooths its surface or retreats to expose lichen constellations. Bridges pass overhead, traffic flows, semesters turn over, yet the rock remains unimpressed. It has already endured pressure sufficient to rearrange its crystals; a passing academic calendar is not likely to trouble it.

This boulder, a glacial erratic, was found near Fall Creek and the Cornell Botanic Gardens Horticulture Building. Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

This rock, a glacial erratic, was found near Fall Creek and the Cornell Botanic Gardens Horticulture Building. Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

Then there are the stones that confront us most directly—those we stumble upon in fields, pulled from soil by plow or frost, demanding explanation. A white, iron-stained marble boulder in a Tompkins County field is not subtle about its foreignness. It does not belong to the local vocabulary of shale and sandstone. Its pale surface, crystalline texture, and mineral scars point insistently north, toward the Grenville terrane of the Adirondack Lowlands. The Balmat–Edwards–Gouverneur marble belt offers the most persuasive origin story: metamorphosed carbonate rock carried south by Laurentide ice, released when climate and physics finally lost patience with one another.

I found this white marble erratic in a Tompkins County field. The highest-probability source is Grenville marble from the NW Adirondack Lowlands / St. Lawrence County (Gouverneur/Balmat–Edwards marble belt), delivered by southward-flowing Laurentide ice. I say the most probable source is metamorphosed carbonate (marble) from the Grenville terrane to the north—especially the northwest Adirondack Lowlands / St. Lawrence County marble belt (the “Gouverneur Marble” and related Grenville marbles), transported south by the last Laurentide ice sheet. Why that’s the best bet: Ice-flow geometry favors a northern source. In the Finger Lakes, glacial ice advanced with a flow direction that was very close to due south, guided by the north–south bedrock valleys. Tompkins County erratics are “exotic” imports. Local bedrock around Ithaca/Tompkins is Devonian shale/sandstone, but the region contains many nonlocal (“exotic”) glacial erratics carried in from much farther north (including southern Canada and beyond). Marble isn’t local to the Ithaca area, but it is abundant in the NW Adirondack Lowlands. The Balmat–Edwards/Gouverneur area in St. Lawrence County is a classic Grenville Lowlands district with marble belts (the same province that yields cream/white building marble around Gouverneur).

What makes this particular erratic compelling is not just its provenance, but the improbability of its journey. Ice moved with purpose here, flowing south along bedrock valleys like Fall Creek and Cayuga troughs, turning the Finger Lakes region into a conveyor belt for distant geology. When the ice melted, it left behind evidence that refuses to blend in. Erratics are geological truth-tellers. They announce that this place was once unrecognizable, that what seems permanent is merely provisional.

Perhaps that is why folklore clings so naturally to stone. Whether leprechauns or Laurentide ice are credited, erratics insist on a larger frame of reference. They ask us to imagine landscapes in motion and beliefs under revision. A boulder can be a seat, a marker, a perch, or a puzzle—but never merely background. It waits, quietly confident, for us to catch up to its story.

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Lucifer Falls in Winter: Traversing Ice Chutes Along Ithaca’s South Rim Trail

A careful winter walk along the South Rim reveals Lucifer Falls transformed—ice chutes, frozen veils, and flowing water beneath stone, inviting patience, attention, and quiet awe.

January pares the gorge to essentials. Color withdraws, sound sharpens, and the land reveals its underlying grammar—stone, water, cold, and time. Reaching Lucifer Falls by the South Rim Trail on a winter morning feels less like an initiation, a careful passage through ice-chutes and shadowed ledges where the creek rehearses its ancient work in a new key.

Wintertime scene along the South Rim Trail of Robert H. Treman State park. The trail is solid ice. Ithaca, Tompkins County New York State

The trail begins quietly, a soft crunch underfoot where snow thins to leaf litter. Hemlocks hold their breath. The gorge opens in increments, not all at once, and the creek’s voice arrives in fragments—first a whisper, then a steady insistence. Winter edits the landscape with a clean hand. The clutter of summer understory is gone; what remains is structure: stratified shale stacked like a book left open to a single, patient chapter. Every footfall demands attention. Ice slicks the stone where seeps cross the path, and the trail teaches a winter gait—short steps, weight centered, the quiet confidence of traction earned rather than assumed.

As the rim narrows, the air cools perceptibly. The gorge walls rise higher, their layered faces stippled with frost and snow. Icicles form a punctuation along ledges, commas and exclamation points caught mid-sentence. In places, the trail descends into ice chutes—steep, polished corridors where meltwater has glazed the rock. Here, the body listens more closely. Boots test, then commit. Hands brush the cold bark of a leaning tree, a borrowed handrail. There is pleasure in this concentration, the way winter insists on presence. You cannot hurry. You cannot drift.

Below, the creek widens into a quiet pool, its surface a muted mirror. Thin plates of ice drift and collide, sounding a faint porcelain clink. The sound carries upward, amplified by the gorge’s acoustics, a delicate counterpoint to the deeper hush of falling water. The trail curves, and suddenly the falls announce themselves—not in full view, but as a white presence beyond the bend, a brightness lodged between walls of stone.

The trails this day were solid ice. I arrived via the South Rim Trail, the only way to access this site. Robert H. Treman State Park, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

Approaching from the South Rim offers a measured reveal. First the upper cascades appear, water fanning across rock that has become a winter canvas. Ice has claimed the margins, building ribs and curtains that thicken day by day. The falls do not stop in January; they change. Water threads through ice, slips behind it, emerges again in translucent veils. Gravity persists, but its expression is altered—slower, more deliberate, sculptural.

At the base, Lucifer Falls stands transformed. The familiar plunge has become a tiered architecture of frozen flow, a stepped amphitheater where icicles hang like organ pipes and snow pillows settle into hollows. The water still moves, a silver ribbon finding its way down the left flank, while the right side has grown into a cathedral of ice. The gorge walls close in, amplifying the sound—a low, resonant murmur that feels as much felt as heard.

The cold sharpens every sense. Breath fogs, then clears. Fingers tingle through gloves as the camera comes out, metal biting through insulation. Framing becomes an act of translation: how to honor motion when much of it has paused; how to suggest the hidden currents beneath the frozen skin. A short video will later catch what stillness cannot—the soft shiver of water behind ice, the way the falls breathe even in winter—but for now, the eye lingers on texture and line. Shale layers echo the ice’s striations. Time repeats itself in different materials.

Standing there, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of deep history. These rocks remember glaciers and warmer seas; this creek has been at work since before memory had a word. January merely adds a chapter. Snow feathers the ledges. A stray sunbeam slips into the gorge, briefly igniting the ice, and then is gone. The falls return to their monochrome palette, as dignified as an old photograph.

The return along the rim is lighter, the path now familiar, confidence earned. The ice chutes yield more easily on the way back, as if acknowledging the careful passage. Above the gorge, the forest resumes its quiet, and the trail leads out into the open day. What lingers is the sense of having witnessed something intimate and exacting—a winter conversation between stone and water, conducted without haste, inviting those willing to slow down and listen.

January asks little and gives much. Reaching Lucifer Falls by the South Rim is a reminder that beauty is not diminished by cold; it is clarified.

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Winter Walking at Taughannock Falls: Finding Connection and Quiet Along the Gorge Rim Trails

Winter distills Taughannock Gorge to stone, water, and silence, where careful footsteps along icy rim trails reveal deep connections between landscape, memory, and quiet joy.

Winter pares the world down to its essential lines, and nowhere is that more apparent than on the rim trails of Taughannock Falls State Park. On a Wednesday afternoon walk, a three-mile pilgrimage, the gorge revealed itself as a living corridor of connections—between water and stone, past and present, effort and joy. The season sharpened every sensation: the crunch and slip of ice underfoot, the hush of leafless woods, the long exhale of the falls echoing unseen below.

From the overlook, the gorge opens like a vast stone book, its pages written in shale and time. Taughannock Falls drops away in the distance, not so much seen as felt—its presence announced by scale and gravity. Even before stepping onto the trail, the walk establishes its rhythm: pause, look, breathe. Winter insists on this slower tempo. Ice dictates caution, and caution invites attention.

Heading along the Rim Trail my progress became deliberate. The path, glazed in places with solid ice, turned each step into a negotiation. Yet this was no impediment to pleasure. Slowness allowed for noticing the quiet labor of the park maintenance crew, whose careful clearing and repairs spoke of spring already anticipated. Their work stitched the present moment to the coming season, a reminder that parks, like stories, are maintained through this unseen devotion.

The gorge itself is a system of thresholds. A bridge crossing the creek marks the transition from North to South Rim, but it also frames one of the most dramatic views in the park. Standing above the chasm, one senses connection: water flowing beneath, trails diverging and rejoining, human passage layered lightly atop geological endurance. The gorge is a conversation between forces, ongoing and unresolved.

Gorge Road, early November
Gorge Road, early November
From the South Rim Trail. Taughannock Falls, New York State Park, Ulysees, Tompkins County, Finger Lakes Region.
Click any photograph for a larger image

Ice eventually nudged my walk onto Gorge Road, which parallels the South Rim Trail like a quieter narrative strand. Here, the landscape shifts from wild drama to human memory. A curve in the road reveals a farmhouse, modest and fragile beside its outsized barn. In winter, the absence of leaves makes the scene stark and honest. The farmstead buildings do not ask for nostalgia; they simply stand, bearing witness to lives tethered to this steep land. The structures emerge gradually as I walk downhill, as if the land itself were choosing when to reveal them.

Overview of this small cemetery overlooking Cayuga Lake

A short detour leads to a small cemetery perched on a shelf above Cayuga Lake, near the Taughannock Farms Inn. In winter, cemeteries feel less like places of mourning and more like rooms of quiet conversation. Headstones rise from frozen ground, their inscriptions softened by time and distance. From this vantage point, lake and sky merge in pale bands, and the lives commemorated here feel gently folded into the larger story of the landscape. The dead, too, are part of the park’s web of connections.

Another detour brings the lower falls into view—a more intimate expression of the same water that plunges dramatically upstream. Here the sound is closer, the movement more conversational. It is easy to imagine this water traveling, moment by moment, linking ravine to lake, winter to spring, memory to presence.

One of many Rim Trail overlooks. That is the Gorge Trail, below.

Rejoining the rim trail for the final climb north, the gorge offers repeated overlooks where the Gorge Trail can be seen threading below. These moments collapse distance: walker and walker, above and below, bound by the same route at different elevations. Over the course of roughly three miles and almost 600 feet of cumulative elevation change, effort becomes its own reward. Two hours pass not as measured time but as a sustained attentiveness, a gift winter offers to those willing to meet it on its terms.

Walking these trails in winter is about entering a conversation with the land—listening to ice, stone, water, and history speak in a quieter register. The joy lies in connection: trail to trail, gorge to road, past to present, and walker to place. In winter, Taughannock invites, gently and honestly, those who are willing to walk slowly enough to see.

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Climbing Piestewa Peak: Multicultural Pilgrimage to a Phoenix Desert Dawn

In the cool predawn, strangers from every background climb a stone stairway above Phoenix, trading city lights for desert silence as sunrise spills gold across Piestewa Peak.

Arriving at 5 am there is a line of trucks and cars and Piestewa Peak parking almost full when I grab a spot in the predawn darkness. The desert air has that deep, merciful coolness it offers before sunrise, edged with the long-remembered scent of creosote. Car doors close with soft thuds, headlamps blink on, and a loose procession of strangers begins to funnel toward the trailhead like pilgrims, even now white and red headlamps sprinkle the upper slopes.

At first the climb exists only in a narrow cone of light, my lamp illuminates the scant gravel, uneven steps, and each scuff of boot or shoe sounds loud in the hush. Somewhere below, the city hums, but here the conversation is mostly breath and the occasional murmur of greeting as we fall into the rhythm of the climb.

My beam catches a young couple just ahead, their hands knotted together. They speak Spanish, laughing quietly as they miss a step and bump shoulders. Behind me an older man in a Veterans cap leans heavily on trekking poles, his companion—maybe daughter, maybe friend—matching her shorter stride to his with patient care. A group of women in bright leggings and braided hair moves past us in a burst of energy, their languages overlapping—English, maybe Vietnamese, something I cannot place—like the weaving of a rug. A man passes me, a drum on his back. Piestewa draws them all, before dawn, to this rib of stone in the center of the Phoenix basin.

As I stop to rest myself and turn off my headlamp, ahead the trail tilts steeper the steps fade to rock, irregular and unforgiving: a stairway carved from ancient volcanic bones. With my dark adaptation, surfaces reflect star and city light, leading the eye down the ridge toward the dark quilt of neighborhoods below. Later, captured in the photograph, those steps will twist away like a stone dragon’s spine, the city waking beyond in soft pastels. Now they are simply work for legs and lungs.

The desert plants materialize around us as shapes before they acquire color. Saguaros stand like sentinels along the slopes; their arms lifted in silhouette. Ocotillo rise as witchy bundles of sticks, each spine leafed out from October rains the leaves catching a little light. On a small plateau a family has paused; the father adjusts a tiny headlamp on his son, no more than six, who is insisting, with fierce determination, that he can carry his own water. “Almost there, campeón,” his father says, and the child straightens like a soldier.

The dark begins to soften at the edges. Over the eastern horizon a thin band of orange appears, a delicate seam between night and day. In one direction, the city stretches out in a glittering net of streetlights, the squares of parking lots and subdivisions catching the last of the darkness. In the other, the mountains are still black cutouts, their profiles sharp as paper against a gradually brightening sky. One of my images will hold that moment: the jagged ridge of Piestewa in shadow, the valley below already spangled with light, a single towering saguaro rooted at the cliff’s edge like a punctuation mark.

November 2025 while visiting Pam’s family in Phoenix

Higher up, the trail narrows and the rock turns rougher. We fall into single file, strangers linked by a line of effort. A runner comes flying down, feet barely touching stone, breath steady and controlled. “On your left,” he calls, and we part for him like water. A woman with a hijab tucked neatly under her ball cap leans against the retaining wall, stretching a calf muscle, her friend counting in accented English: “Ten more seconds, you can do it.” Near one bend a hiker pauses to press a hand against the rock face, whispering a quiet prayer in a language I do not recognize. It is a small, intimate moment, gone almost before I register it.

The last push to the saddle is steep, the steps uneven, the sky now a cascade of colors—copper, rose, faint lavender melting into a high dome of blue. The silhouettes of distant ranges sharpen: the Estrellas?, the Superstitions?, low ridges whose names I do not know. On the horizon, the first thin line of sun breaks free, setting fire to the edges of clouds. In another photograph, framed by dark rock and desert trees, that sunrise becomes a golden portal at the end of a shadowed corridor of stone.

We reach a broad ledge just shy of the summit as the light finally spills over us. People are already gathered there: a trio of college students taking selfies, a pair of retirees sharing thermos coffee, a solitary man sitting cross-legged with eyes closed, face open to the warmth. The city below is suddenly transformed. The carpet of lights dims, replaced by the clear geometry of streets and rooftops, golf courses and parking lots, all laid out like a model at our feet. The mountains that hem the basin—once anonymous shapes—now reveal their ridges and ravines in sharp relief.

For a few minutes conversation dies away. Everyone seems to feel the same thing: that fragile instant when the sun clears the horizon and the desert shifts from silver-blue to gold. The rocks around us, sharp and broken in the photographs, glow honey-colored. Saguaros catch light on their spines, each thorn a tiny ember. Even the dusty air seems to shimmer.

Down below, a new wave of hikers starts up the trail, latecomers walking into full daylight. We, the predawn climbers, share a small, quiet complicity. We have seen the city from the backside of night, watched the day arrive from a perch of jagged stone. Piestewa Peak has turned us, for an hour or two, into a single, breathing organism: many hearts, one climb, all of us stitched together by the steep path and the slow unveiling of the sun.

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Distant Sapphire III

From a modest bench above Taughannock Gorge, Cayuga Lake shifts from distant glimmer to presence—a quiet invitation to pause, breathe, and follow the water down.

From the south rim of Taughannock Gorge, Cayuga Lake appears like a distant strip of sapphire, framed today by a soft veil of hemlock and oak. The overlook here is modest—a fence, a bit of open sky—but someone wisely added a comfortable bench, an invitation to pause between gorge and lake, rock and water.

I stood in front of that bench, resting the camera body on the fence, fingers braced against the wood to steady the shot. This is not the grand, sweeping vista of a postcard. Instead, it is a quieter, more human vantage point, the way a person actually encounters the lake after walking the rim: emerging from the trees, breath easing, eyes adjusting to the light on water.

From here, the trail descends toward Cayuga’s shore, each turn bringing you lower and closer, trading the lofty perspective for the intimate sounds of waves and stone. In Distant Sapphire I and II, the lake was a glimpse—caught between branches, distant beyond the gorge. Now, in this “Bench View,” the water feels nearer, almost within reach, as though the landscape itself is drawing you gently down.

Click photograph for a larger view. To do this from WordPress Reader, you need to first click the title of this post to open a new page.

I’ve gathered the three photographs—Glimpse of Cayuga Lake, Gorge View with Oak Leaves, and this Cayuga Lake Bench View—into a small gallery, a progression of approach. Each frame is a step closer: from suggestion, to invitation, to the quiet promise of the bench, waiting for whoever needs to sit and look a little longer.

A gallery of the three Cayuga Lake photographs for comparison.

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