Pam and I were drawn outside the day after Valentine’s a bit of sun, an unreliable warm breeze, a promise of exercise. Our expectations were disappointed for all but the last at the foot of the Taughannock Falls gorge trail.
We had a reminder mid-February marks the start of avian mating behavior with this addition to the view from Taughannock Creek, the first large waterfall. For the cold, drizzly excursion I chose the IPhone, in a waterproof case, for the images. The fanicful birdhouse inscription reads “The Old Birds from Pa.”
Click the photograph for my “Finger Lakes Memories” Online gallery.
The winding gorge takes a general east, southeasterly direction. Where the sun cannot reach the snow was reduced to a treacherous slushy ice mix more nasty than dangerous.
View from the Overlook on the way to the trail. This is the endpoint of our hike, viewed from the gorge rim.
Of all the area hiking experiences, Taughannock Gorge Trail is the only one available year round. The gorge is wide with enough room for the footpath to avoid the cliff edge. Today, there were places were ice formations were throwing large ice chunks down the slope. The park ranges place tree trunks along the cliff base, with warning signs to stay away. Still, there are visitors who stray too close with fatal outcomes reported by local news.
Pam was fascinated by the appearance of snow and ice accumulated on the talus, here seen from the Taughannock Falls viewing bridge.
Click photograph for my “Finger Lakes Memories” online gallery. Photo by Pam.
You can just pick out the viewing bridge in the Falls Overlook video.
Click photograph for my “Finger Lakes Memories” Online Gallery. Photo by Pam.
Taughannock Falls bound by ice is a most dramatic sight. I need to post photographs from a 2005 visit during an especially frigid February. Here, the falls have thrown off the ice, leaving this house-size chunk.
Click photograph for my “Finger Lakes Memories” Online Gallery
The surrounding gorge walls are continually frost coated by the mist.
Click the photograph for my “Finger Lakes Memories” Online Gallery210 foot Taughannock Falls from the viewing bridge.
In more clement seasons the Gorge Trail ends much closer to the falls. Today, it was closed as, during winter and especially thaws, blocks of the sandstone cap break away to fall with great force across that part of the trail. This viewing area is visible in the Falls Overlook video.
I offer here a continuation of descriptions of a 2014 walk on the Tain Way, an appreciation of the lore and beauty of Ireland.
Descending the Tain Way from the ridge of Golyin Pass the sweep of Cooley Peninsula spread before us. Louth is the smallest of the Irish Republic counties, a peninsula which is mountainous where it is not farmland, one exception being Carlingford with the most people, population 1,405 in 2016.
Residential Carlingford continues along the Greenore Road, farmland adjoins then continues southeast along the Cooley Peninsula margin, the Irish Sea beyond. Greenore Town and deep water port on upper left. These photographs are views from the Tain Way on the slopes of Slieve Foye, the highest mountain of County Louth.
Wander through the place names: Chapel Hill, Liberties of Carlingford, Moneymore, Leminageh, Crossalaney, Mullatee, Millgrange, Ramparts, Muchgrange, Ballyamony, Mullabane, Petestown, Ballagane, Willville, Whites Town.
There is a deepwater port on Carlingford Lough adjacent to and part of Greenore Town. The port employed Cousin John Mills years ago, supplementing his farm income. Across the lough is Greenecastle, Newry in Northern Ireland.
The Irish Sea opens on the far side of Greenore with the Isle of Man about 52 miles east and a little north.
We did not climb so much as ascend, with effort, the flank of Slieve Foy, a peak of the Cooley Mountains, County Louth, Ireland. The group being cousin Sean, my wife, Pam, and myself.
The ridge of Golyin Pass loomed in the mist where the path dissolved in low cloud. Sean pointed above, to the right to Barnavave, also know as Maeve’s Gap for the queen who came from the west of Ireland to take Donn Cúailnge, the Brown Bull of Cooley, by force of arms with an army behind her.
A modern rendering of Donn Cúailnge. See link at the bottom of this posting for more information.
When cousin Sean named Cú Chulainn, the champion of Maeve’s opponents, the Ulstermen, he recalled a story once lost, Táin Bó Cúailnge. A hospitable siege different from Maeve’s and mist are part of the story of the recovery of this tale.
A gathering of 150 poets, 100 pupils, and attendants strained the patience and wealth of Guaire Aidne mac Colmáin, King of Connacht, when it extended to a year and four months.
Our first and only encounter with fellow hikers. In the distance two figures appear over the next ridge, a mother and young daughter. She greeted us and challenged Sean to his knowledge of the area. Sean acquitted himself well and we continued.
On that 16th month, the king challenged the leader of his guests to the telling of a tale. Guaire demanded Seanchan Torpest, the chief poet of Connacht, to recite the whole of Táin Bó Cúailnge, known in English as the Cattle Raid of Cooley or The Táin (Cattle Raid).
Click a gallery pic for a larger view.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
In this way the king was relieved of his guests: the book of the Táin was lost before their lifetimes, rumored to be abroad. Abashed at his failure, Seanchan Torpest withdrew. Fellow poets and followers trailed out from the castle.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
Seanchan Torpest regrouped the host (an opened question is who then supported them) in conference to construct Táin Bó Cúailnge. It was a false hope as the gathering discovered while each poet knew a part of the whole, most of the story was lost. His honor, reputation and self-esteem in tatters the Chief Poet of Connacht, set off with Murgen, his son, and second cousin Eimena to return the Táin to Ireland.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
Into mists such as those Pam, Sean and I ascended, the travelers soon were lost and separated.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
Magically, Murgen finds the grave of the Uncle of Cú Chulainn in the mists, there to meet the shade of that enormous man, Fergus mac Róich is his name. In the Táin, as related in whole by Fergus to Murgen, Fergus was led by circumstances to ally with Maeve, to guide her army against the Ulstermen. As a deposed king, traitor to Ulster and Uncle to the champion Cú Chulainn, Fergus knew the tale entire.
View as we approached Goliyn Pass
It was from the mists that Murgen emerged, found his father and cousin, and returned together without the book, but with possession of the substance of the Táin.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
Four views of purple trillium, three of a grouping and one portrait. Taken in the same session of a rare set of perfect blooms growing wild.
Taken with a Canon 100 mm “macro” lens, a Kodak dslr body, a Manfrotto tripod and ample time and patience.
Enjoy!
Copyright 2016 MichaelStephenWills.com
The trillium plant grows from a body of rhizomes, a type of underground stem you can think of as a type of root. There are rhizomes when use to flavor food such as turmeric, though trillium is not one of these.
The single scape grows straight from the ground to form a whorl of three bracts mirrored by the three green (usually) sepals and, again, by the three flower petals for which it is named.
You can clearly see all of this in my photographs.
Copyright 2017 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved
On Monday, June 9, 2014, cousin John Mills dropped his son, Sean Mills, myself and Pam Wills off at the foot of the western slopes of Slieve Foy on the Tain Way. Sean, Pam and I walked the way over the mountain and into Carlingford in the footsteps of epic Irish heroes.
Our guide, Sean Mills, proposed the walk and it fell on our last full day in Ireland. Sean’s father and our host for this visit, John Mills, transported the group including my wife Pam to the starting point at the foot of Slieve Foy.
Yes, if there is any part of the Tain Way the the mythic Irish heroes trod it is this one over Slieve Foy mountain. The saga, in Irish “Táin Bó Cúailnge” and “The Cattle Raid of Cooley” in English, features this bull, “Donn Cuailnge” “The Brown Bull of Cooley”, here as a statue erected 2011 by the Grange and District Residents Association.
Donn Cuailnge raged over the very slopes we walked this day. The myths themselves fill a volume and I am unable to do them justice here.
On the way, John stopped at the Old Aghameen School he attended in the late 1930’s early 1940’s 70 years before and we pass through the country soon to grace our views.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
Many thanks to the Glenmore Athletic Club, the Cooley Walking Forum and land owners who provide access to the Tain Way.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
On June 9, 2014, Pam and Mike joined cousin Sean Mills for a walk on the Tain Trail, starting at Glenmore Athletic Club, climbing over a ridge of Slieve Foy, finishing at Carlingford. This album captures the entire trip.
We had our leave taking with John, who planned to stay near the phone for our call from Carlingford, if all went according to plan. That same year Pam had the first of two total knee replacements. This was our longest hike in Ireland and Pam was not likely to miss it, regardless of any pain. Pam is always ready to smile.
At start, the Tain Way is broad, green and welcoming.
The western slopes of Slieve Foy hold views of a valley among the Cooley Mountains with Dundalk Bay of the Irish Sea to the south / southeast. It was not long before the view started to open and, then, opened and opened the entire walk to the top. We were graced with a lovely, cloudy, June day. Mist only, no rain. Plenty of wind, not strong.
Farms are all about. Here a farmer attends to the flock. They know who he is.
The lower slopes hold many small stream among granite stones.
I will continue with our walk on the Tain Way soon enough.
On Monday, June 9, 2014 John Mills, the first cousin of my mother, Catherine Wills nee McArdle, showed us the ruin of the schoolhouse used in the 1930 / 1940’s and which he attended as would Catherine if her parents hadn’t emigrated to Canada in the 1920’s. Free public schooling was mandated in Ireland from 1831 and by the 1850s most Irish parishes had a schoolhouse, such as this in Ballymascanlon civil parish, as part of the National Schools. When this piece was first published, Malachy Mills (a cousin), left a comment and clue…the name is Aghameen School. The following information spooled out from that.
There is an Irish language site, Duchas.ie, with listings for Aghameen, a Louth township, the very one of the school and, very rightly, it is the name of the school. There is even information from a teacher, Bean Ui Riada, who taught there 1937 – 1938, and posted information about local place names and legends. Here is the link to his postings. I learned from him that Aghameen is An tÁth Mín in Irish and means “field of the mountain meadow.” You can see from the photographs the site is on the side of a mountain, pine forests all around.
Throughout her life my Mother had correspondence with her cousins who learned how to write in this very school.
The school existed at least since 1842. In private communication arising from this blog posting I learned a friend’s great, great grandfather, Denis Joseph Doherty, came from Donegal in that year to teach in the school and married a fellow teacher, Margaret Kane who was the girl’s school teacher. They raised a family while living at the school until moving to Jenkinstown. Margaret was from Jenkinstown, not far away and also on the Cooley Peninsula. They are Malachy Mills’ great, great, great grandparents through his mother.
Aghameen School is located on the Cooley Peninsula, County Louth, shown in the following Google Earth Image
This is the exact location:
Latitude 54° 2’17.83″N
Longitude 6°16’3.08″W
To get there go to the cross-roads in Omeath and drive uphill for a few miles to a T-junction. Turn left and go through the Windy Gap past the Long Woman’s Grave (shown on the following Google Earth image). Take the right fork at the next Y intersection. Continue for 1.4 mile (2.26 kilometers) to a Y intersection, take the right fork. Continue .18 mile (.28 kilometer) to find the ruin is on your right.
I marked the a portion of the Tain Way with a red line where it passes near the Old Schoolhouse.
This is the road as viewed from the ruin looking south…..
….and the distant view of the uniquely shaped peak Slievenaglogh to the southeast. Slievenaglogh in Irish is Sliabh na gCloch and means mountain of rocks. There is an identically named peak in the Mourne Mountains, to the north across Carlingford Loch. Slievenaglogh of Cooley Peninsula is an interesting element of south view from this valley.
The ruin itself.
…behind a stone fence and gate posts.
Overgrown with ferns, moss, grass…..
…the ever present lichen.
John’s son, Sean Mills, was with us. That day, Sean lead us on Tain Way over the Golyin Pass over Slieve Foy with Carlingford as the destination. Indeed, the Tain Way passes a few feet from this spot, being a loop of the Cooley peninsula. The Way is a two day walk, our starting point was a few miles from the schoolhouse.
On this spring equinox morning a huge sun, filtered by morning clouds, hangs over East Hill and Cornell University. Taken from our home on West Hill, looking across the valley and Ithaca, New York.
The temperature is a balmy 18 degrees F.
Also…Happy Anniversary to my dear wife, Pam. XOXOXO
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Can you pick out these Cornell landmarks?
— Jenny McGraw Tower
— Lib Slope still covered in snow from last week’s storm.
— the looming fortress shape of Bradford Hall.
The lower slopes hold many small stream among granite stones. 
