Discovering Large-Flowered Bellwort Near Mundy Wildflower Garden in Ithaca, New York

On an April afternoon along Fall Creek near Cornell Botanic Gardens, I found my first colony of Large-flowered Bellwort, Uvularia grandiflora—a quiet woodland wildflower shaped by spring light, pollinators, and rich forest soil.

On an April afternoon in 2026, walking along Fall Creek near the Mundy Wildflower Garden at Cornell Botanic Gardens, I came for the first time upon a colony of Large-flowered Bellwort, Uvularia grandiflora, and stopped with the immediate feeling that spring had spoken in a new dialect. I had seen the season gathering itself all around me in buds, in damp leaf litter, in the first loosening of the woods from winter’s gray restraint. But this was different. These flowers did not announce themselves with bravado. They hung quietly beneath their leaves, as though the forest had shaped small yellow lanterns and then thought better of showing them too openly.

I raised my Canon EOS 5D Mark IV with the Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens and photographed them handheld at 1/640 second, f/8.0, trying to honor both their delicacy and their poise. Macro work often feels like an act of courtship with detail. One does not seize the subject; one approaches, waits, adjusts, breathes. In the bellworts, I found a plant that rewarded just this kind of attention. At first glance they seemed merely graceful. Then, looking more closely, I began to see their architecture.

These Largeflower Bellworts (Uvularia grandflora) are flourishing on the Cornell University Campus along Fall Creek, adjacent to the Mundy Wildflower Garden. Cornell University, Tompkins County, finger Lakes Region, New York State

Large-flowered Bellwort is a woodland perennial of rich deciduous forests, and it wears that identity in every part of its form. The stems rise smooth and pale, slender but assured, each seeming to carry its burden effortlessly. The leaves clasp the stem in that distinctive bellwort manner, as though the plant were being held in green hands. Beneath them hang the flowers, elongated and drooping, their six yellow tepals twisted and tapered into points. They are not the symmetrical stars of more open-faced blossoms. They are pendants, streamers, tassels of sunlight. In these flowers, yellow becomes motion. Even when still, they seem to trail the memory of a breeze.

The plant’s drooping habit is part of an evolutionary strategy. In the spring woods, before the canopy fully leafs out, ephemeral light reaches the forest floor in a brief annual inheritance. Bellwort rises into that window. It gathers energy quickly, blooms early, and makes use of the few bright weeks before the trees above turn the woodland dim and green. Its season is a narrow one, but not a meager one. This is a plant shaped by timing, by patience, by fidelity to a recurring opportunity. It lives where sunlight is not constant but bestowed.

There is something deeply moving in such an existence. We humans often admire the grand gestures of nature—the waterfall, the hawk, the thunderhead. But woodland wildflowers teach another lesson: that persistence may take the form of exquisite brevity. Uvularia grandiflora does not dominate the landscape. It waits for its rightful hour, then enters the year with quiet authority. It is one of spring’s soft-spoken triumphs.

Ecologically, the bellwort belongs to a community rather than a spectacle. It grows in moist, humus-rich soil, among the remains of last year’s leaves, where decay has become nourishment. Around it are the signatures of a healthy eastern woodland: filtered light, fungal work below ground, the gradual release of nutrients from the forest’s own past. Its roots do not stand apart from this economy of return. They participate in it. The beauty of the flower is inseparable from the labor of decomposition, the unseen commerce of roots and microbes, the long winter’s accumulation of leaf mold. Even here, elegance rises from compost.

And then there are its relationships with other living things. The flowers, nodding and somewhat enclosed, invite a certain intimacy from insect visitors. Bellwort is not a billboard flower. It asks a pollinator to come close, to enter its hanging chamber. Bumblebees, mason bees in the genus Osmia, sweat bees in Halictus and Lasioglossum, and mining bees in Andrena are among its visitors. One bee, Andrena uvulariae, bears in its very name the mark of this botanical relationship, having evolved a close association with Uvularia. To stand before these flowers is to imagine that hidden commerce of spring proceeding just beyond the edge of one’s notice: a queen bumblebee nosing into a drooping bloom, a small Osmia working deliberately among the tepals, an Andrena bee moving with ancient purpose through a plant lineage it has learned by evolution to trust.

What we call a wildflower is also an agreement, a contract written between blossom and insect long before we arrived to admire it. Even after flowering, the bellwort participates in the forest. Its seeds bear fleshy appendages that attract ants, which help carry them away and disperse them through the woodland.

Human beings, of course, enter this world differently. We bring names, lenses, curiosity, memory. We kneel in leaf litter with cameras. We identify, compare, and sometimes misidentify. We make gardens to protect what once grew without us, and then discover that our finest role is not mastery but attention. Finding Large-flowered Bellwort near Fall Creek reminded me that our relationship to such plants is at its best when it is grounded in humility. We do not improve these flowers by naming them; we improve ourselves by learning to see them.

And seeing them, truly seeing them, is no small thing. The petals in these photographs are veined with light. The stems carry a woodland grace, as if drawn in one uninterrupted line. The colony as a whole had the look of a little parliament of bells, each one bowed, each one speaking in silence. They seemed to me like fragments of sun that had slipped through the trees and decided to remain rooted there.

I left Fall Creek that afternoon with the feeling that I had been admitted to a finer scale of perception. Large-flowered Bellwort asks little of the passerby except slowness. Yet in return it offers a great deal: form, adaptation, timing, kinship, restraint. It shows how life in the spring woods is built from tact. Not only from survival, but from style.

Some plants shout the season into being. Bellwort lets it ring softly. And once heard, that note stays with you.

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Hepatica at Fillmore Glen: Quiet Wonders Beneath the Leafless Trees

On a quiet April walk in Fillmore Glen State Park, I found Hepatica acutiloba blooming beneath leafless trees—small, luminous flowers that turned the still-brown woods into a meditation on patience, renewal, and grace.

On April 11, 2026, I walked Fillmore Glen State Park beneath trees still bare, their branches opening the woods to the cool, unguarded light of early spring. The forest had not yet put on its full green speech. Last year’s leaves still covered the ground in shades of russet and tan, and among them, close to the earth, I found Hepatica acutiloba beginning to bloom.

These are flowers that ask for slowness. No one hurrying through the woods would fully see them. I had to kneel, lower myself into their world, and let my eyes adjust to their scale. Only then did they begin to reveal themselves: first as closed buds, pale and self-contained, then as opened white blossoms shining from the leaf litter like small votives in the dim cathedral of the spring woods.

This flower was a light lavender blossoms, still closed, rising from the forest floor on a delicate stems. The sun had reached in, and I made the image handheld, steadying the camera on the ground. Even unopened, it seemed to hold light within itself, as though the day had touched it but not yet persuaded it to unfold. I have always loved that about hepatica. It does not fling itself into spring. It listens first. It waits with an old intelligence, answering warmth and brightness in its own time.

Lavender Hepatica Blossoms, closed

A second cluster of closed blossoms rested among evergreen fern fronds, which appear to be Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides. Their leathery green pinnae, carried through the winter, formed a fitting companion to these early flowers. Together they seemed to embody one of the quiet truths of the April woods: that renewal does not come as a sudden trumpet blast, but by degrees. First the fern still holding its winter green. Then the bud. Then the opening. Then the day when the whole hillside begins to feel like a promise being kept.

White Hepatica Blossoms with Christmas Fern

The last three photographs showed the same group of white hepatica blossoms growing on a south-facing slope beneath a tree root. By then I had placed the camera on my Manfrotto BeFree tripod, and I worked more deliberately, grateful for the patience that such flowers invite. One image was made in sunlight; the others when the sun had passed behind a cloud. That change mattered. In the sun, the white blossoms seemed almost to ring like little bells of light. Under cloud, they grew quieter, softer, more inward. The mood deepened. The exposed root above them became a rough shelter, a woodland lintel, and the blossoms beneath gathered into a hidden chapel of spring.

Hepatica acutiloba in sunlight on an early spring afternoon. Fillmore Glen New York State Park, Cayuga County, Finger Lakes Region, New York State. April 2026

I stood there for a long while, looking not only at the flowers but at the place that had made their blooming possible. A south-facing slope gathers warmth earlier in the season. The root held the bank in place and offered a small measure of protection. The leaf litter insulated the soil. The ferns kept their green nearby. Nothing in such a scene is accidental. The woods are full of these small negotiations between light, temperature, shelter, and time. Hepatica, for all its delicacy, is a master of them.

Here a cloud hid the sun, the blossoms in side view.

We call these flowers spring ephemerals, and the name is true in one sense. Their season of bloom is brief. Before long, the trees overhead will leaf out, and the bright interval in which they thrive will begin to close. Yet “ephemeral” can sound too fragile a word for a plant so well adapted, so seasoned in its timing. Hepatica does not merely appear and vanish. It endures. Its leaves persist through winter. Its flowering is tuned to a narrow ecological opening, one shaped by the still-bare canopy of the deciduous forest. For a few precious weeks, before shade deepens, it steps into the light and makes use of what the season offers.

The sun still hidden by a cloud, the blossoms face on.

Perhaps that is why hepatica has so often found a place in literature and nature writing. It carries a symbolism that feels earned rather than assigned. It arrives when the world still bears winter’s austerity, and so its bloom seems less decorative than revelatory. Generations of observers have seen in such flowers a sign that the year turns first in whispers. Not through spectacle, but through fidelity. A small flower opening under bare branches can change the whole moral weather of a walk.

That was how it felt to me at Fillmore Glen. The woods were still mostly brown and gray, still waiting for leaf and shade and birdsong in full chorus. Yet these blossoms had already crossed some invisible threshold. They were spring in its purest form: not abundance, but inception. Not the full choir, but the first clear note.

Photography, in such moments, becomes for me an act of receiving. The changing light, the choice of aperture, the longer exposures when the sun went behind a cloud, the shift from handholding to bracing to tripod—all of it asked for attention. Hepatica does not yield itself to haste. It asks me to be present enough to notice what kind of light it is standing in, what kind of slope it has chosen, what old leaves still surround it, what green companions remain from winter. The camera only deepens that act of seeing.

I left Fillmore Glen feeling that I had witnessed something both small and immense. These flowers were no larger than a coin, yet they altered the whole forest around them. The leaf litter no longer seemed merely dead, but sheltering. The bare trees no longer seemed empty, but expectant. In the presence of hepatica, the woods felt poised on the edge of utterance.

That may be the lasting wonder of these early blooms. They do not overwhelm. They steady. They remind me that beauty often comes close to the ground, half-hidden, speaking softly. In the leafless woods of April, that soft speech can feel like grace.

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McLean Bogs in Early Spring: Pitcher Plants, Skunk Cabbage, a Quiet Walk with Grandchildren

A quiet early spring walk through McLean Bogs reveals pitcher plants, skunk cabbage, and the subtle beauty of glacial wetlands shared with grandchildren.

The path into McLean Bogs begins without ceremony, a narrowing of the world. The road falls away, the trees gather closer, and the ground softens underfoot, remembering water. You arrive at a threshold. The air seems altered, quieter, carrying a faint mineral stillness, as though the glacier that shaped this place has not entirely withdrawn its presence.

McLean Bog, Tompkins County, New York State part of Cornell Botanical Gardens

The pond holds the sky with patient fidelity. Its surface is dark, reflective, contemplative—mirroring a band of bare trees and the pale sweep of early-spring cloud. Nothing disturbs it. No wind, no bird, no ripple of urgency. It is the kind of water that asks nothing of you except attention. And in giving it, you feel the pace of your own thoughts begin to slow, as if they too must match the bog’s ancient tempo.

At the edge, grasses stand in muted gold, last year’s growth bowed but not broken. They frame the water as do an unfinished sentence. You can imagine how, in another month, this quiet will be interrupted by green—by the rising insistence of life. But today, the landscape is held in suspension, between endings and beginnings.

On the boardwalk, my grandsons, Sam and Rory, find what the place offers most readily: evidence. A small gray pellet of fur and bone delicately assembled and then discarded. Nearby, a twisting length of scat, marked with the unmistakable language of survival. These are not the symbols we teach in books, but they are legible all the same. The boys lean close, curious, unbothered by what adults might turn away from. To them, this is not unpleasant—it is a clue, a message left behind by an unseen life moving through the same narrow corridors of forest and marsh.

There is something honest in that exchange. The bog does not disguise itself. It offers no curated beauty, no ornamental flourish. What it gives instead is continuity—the quiet assurance that life persists in forms both delicate and stark. And the children, without pretense, receive it as it is.

Deeper in the woods, a small structure of branches rises against the trunk of a tree, a lean-to, improvised and incomplete. Its architecture is simple, almost instinctive, a tentative answer to the question of shelter. Sam and Rory stand before it, boots sunk slightly in the soft ground, their bodies close together in that unconscious gesture of kinship. One leans into the other, not for support exactly, but for connection.

Behind them, the forest extends in gray and brown, a lattice of trunks and fallen limbs. It is not the lush abundance of summer, but something more revealing—a stripped-down anatomy of place. Here you see the bones of the landscape, the structure beneath the surface. And in that exposure, there is a different kind of beauty, one relies on form, on persistence, on time itself.

The boardwalk carries you out into the open bog, where the ground gives way to water and moss. It is a narrow path, elevated just enough to allow passage, and it bends gently, as though respecting the terrain rather than imposing upon it. Rory walks ahead, small against the expanse, following the curve without question. There is trust in that movement—the simple faith that the path will hold, that it leads somewhere worth going.

Around you, the bog stretches in subtle variation. Patches of standing water reflect a green that seems almost improbable in this season, the work of mosses and algae that thrive where others cannot. The vegetation is low, dense, textured—a mosaic rather than a meadow. And here and there, like small embers against the muted field, the pitchers rise.

The pitcher plants are both beautiful and unsettling. Their deep red forms, veined with intricate patterns, hold themselves open to the world. They are vessels, yes, and thresholds, invitations with consequence. Insects, drawn by color or scent, enter and do not leave. It is easy to think of them as passive, but they are anything but. They are active participants in the exchange of life, taking what the poor soil cannot provide.

You kneel to look more closely, drawn in despite yourself. The interior of the pitcher is a map of intention—every line, every curve serving a purpose. And yet, there is an elegance to it, a precision that feels almost artistic. It is not cruelty, exactly, but necessity rendered with a kind of quiet grace.

McLean Bog, Tompkins County, New York State part of Cornell Botanical Gardens

Elsewhere, the first signs of skunk cabbage emerge, their dark, curved forms pushing through saturated ground. They are early risers, indifferent to cold, generating their own heat to break through frost. They do not wait for spring; they create their own version of it. Scattered across the forest floor, they resemble a field of small, listening shapes—each one a declaration that life does not always arrive gently.

And so you move through the bog as a participant in its slow unfolding. Sam and Rory run ahead, then return, their boots muddy, their hands full of nothing in particular. They do not need to name what they have seen. The experience is enough.

As we return to the preserve edge, this sign stands—formal, declarative, assigning significance in the language of designation: Registered Natural Landmark. This place is important, rare, worthy of protection. But the words feel almost secondary after what you have just walked through.

McLEAN BOGS has been designated a REGISTERED NATURAL LANDMARK

This site possesses exceptional value as an illustration of the nation’s natural heritage and contributes to a better understanding of man’s environment.
National Park Service, United States Department of the Interior 1973.

Because the true measure of McLean Bogs is not in its classification, but in its effect. It changes the rhythm of your thinking. It draws your attention downward—to the ground beneath your feet, to the subtle movements of water and growth, to the quiet negotiations of life that continues with or without witnesses.

And perhaps that is what Thoreau meant, though he said it more simply: that heaven is not only above us, distant and abstract, but also here, immediate and tangible, woven into the fabric of the earth itself.

In the bog, that idea does not feel like metaphor. It feels like observation.

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Where Winter Yields: Skunk Cabbage, Pitcher Plants, and Milky Ice at Malloryville Preserve

A late winter walk through Malloryville Preserve reveals milky ice, emerging skunk cabbage, and hidden wetland life—seen through the curious eyes of grandchildren.

The morning began in that quiet register peculiar to late winter in the Finger Lakes—when the calendar insists on spring, yet the land, still half-claimed by frost, speaks in a more cautious dialect. At the O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville, the woods held both seasons in tension. Snow lingered in shaded hollows, while the exposed ground, damp and rust-colored, breathed with thaw.

Sam and Rory—boots muddied almost immediately—climbed atop a great, weathered stump, its cut face fanned with the geometry of years. There is something about a stump that invites children upward, as though it were not a remnant but a stage. From their perch they surveyed a kingdom of bare trunks and quiet trails, their laughter momentarily lifting the stillness. Behind them, the forest rose in gray-brown columns, and beneath them, the history of a tree—rings like a clock no one can wind backward.

We moved downslope toward the seepage-fed lowlands that give this preserve its particular character. Here, the ground softens, water gathers, and winter lingers longer in pockets of ice that seem reluctant to relinquish their hold. The ice itself told a story—not clear and crystalline, but cloudy, milky, almost opalescent. This opacity is the signature of trapped air, minute bubbles frozen in suspension as water repeatedly melts and refreezes. Each cycle interrupts the orderly lattice of ice, scattering light and transforming transparency into a pale, diffused glow. It is ice that remembers its instability.

Threading through this ice were narrow rivulets of meltwater, tracing paths around moss-covered hummocks. These islands—bright green even in winter—rose like miniature continents in a frozen sea. On one such hummock, we found this skunk cabbage. Its mottled spathe, deep maroon flecked with yellow, pushed upward through the cold, its form both alien and ancient. I pointed out to the boys that this plant generates its own heat—a metabolic furnace capable of melting the surrounding snow. It is one of the earliest heralds of spring, though it announces itself not with color alone, but with scent—a pungency that walked with us that day.

Nearby, nestled in the sphagnum, were the pitcher plants—Sarracenia purpurea—their tubular leaves tinged with winter’s reds and greens. Even in dormancy, they held their form, each pitcher a small reservoir. I explained how these plants supplement the nutrient-poor conditions of the bog by capturing insects, their modified leaves forming a subtle trap. The boys leaned in, curious, perhaps imagining the unseen dramas that would unfold here in warmer months.

The wetland was a place of plants and textures. The ice thinned near the edges, revealing water beneath that reflected the vertical lines of trees above. Droplets fell intermittently from branches, punctuating the quiet with soft, irregular taps. It was a landscape in transition, each element negotiating its passage from one state to another.

Along a tangle of shrubs, I noticed an unusual growth—a dense, broom-like cluster of twigs protruding from what appeared to be a highbush blueberry. This “witches’ broom” is often the result of fungal infection or other physiological stress, causing the plant to produce a profusion of shoots from a single point. To a child’s eye, it might seem like a bird’s nest or some deliberate construction, but it is, in fact, the plant’s own altered architecture—a distortion that nonetheless becomes part of the ecosystem, offering shelter to small creatures.

Further along, a fallen log bore the layered forms of shelf fungi, each bracket extending outward like a series of pages half-opened. Their colors—muted tans and browns—blended with the wood, yet their structure was unmistakable. These polypores are the quiet recyclers of the forest, breaking down lignin and cellulose, returning the substance of the tree to the soil. I ran my fingers lightly along their surface, feeling the fine texture, while the boys, less cautious, tapped them as though testing their solidity.

On the bark of a nearby tree, we encountered a patch of what looked like pale, fuzzy insulation—the egg mass of the spongy moth. I explained that each of these masses could contain hundreds of eggs, waiting for the warmth of spring to hatch. It was a reminder that even in this subdued season, the next wave of life was already prepared, concealed in plain sight.

As we made our way back, the boys’ boots squelched in the soft ground, their earlier perch on the stump now a distant memory. Yet the morning had offered them—and me—something more enduring than a climb. It had revealed a landscape in flux, where ice is not merely frozen water but a record of change, where plants defy cold through chemistry, and where even decay participates in renewal.

Late winter, in a place like Malloryville, is not an absence of life but a study in persistence. It asks for attention, for patience, and for a willingness to see beauty in transition. Walking with Sam and Rory, I was reminded that discovery does not wait for spring. It is already here, written in ice, moss, and the quiet industry of the forest.

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Glacial Kettle Bog Wonders: Photographing Pitcher Plants at the O.D. Engeln Preserve in Freeville

Step onto Freeville’s O.D. Engeln Preserve boardwalk and meet purple pitcher plants in a glacial kettle bog—carnivorous beauty, hidden blooms, and macro-photo magic.

Seen from 1000 feet above in Google Earth, the O.D. (Von) Engeln Preserve at Malloryville Road lays itself out in two glacial “kettles,” pond and bog; a simple diagram drawn by ice and time, then complicated by everything that has happened since. In my photograph, taken from the bog observation platform on a July morning, the sky is rinsed blue, clouds billow, conifers stitch along the rim around open space. Step closer, or lower your lens, and the openness resolves into a crowded, intimate architecture of sedges and moss, twigs and standing water, sunlight and shadow.

I came here for a plant that does not announce itself the way wildflowers often do. The purple pitcher plant, Sarracenia purpurea, is a quiet scandal: a green vessel in a place where green should be satisfied simply to survive. I arrived equipped for attentiveness—an iPhone for the broad scene, and a Canon DSLR with the F2.8 100 mm macro lens for the stars of this bog. The macro lens is an instrument of humility. It forces you to admit that the important drama is often no bigger than your palm.

In earlier years, the pitchers could be found right where a visitor naturally looks—within the central cut-out of the observation deck, close enough to lean over and study. But the bog is not a museum display; it is a living negotiation. This season, highbush blueberries pressing in from the margin had crowded the pitchers out, pushing the flowering plants into the grasses eight to ten feet away. The shift is small in human terms, the kind of distance you cross without thinking. In bog terms, it is displacement—an erasure of a familiar scene, a reminder that rarity is not only about numbers but also about space.

The pitchers themselves—those “turtle socks,” as they’ve been nicknamed—sit at ground level in a rosette, their mouths open to weather. Sunlight floods the cups and turns them into something both domestic and uncanny: a set of green, veined slippers left out to air, or a cluster of small amphorae awaiting an offering. In the bog’s thin soil, nourishment is hard-won. The pitcher plant answers that poverty with invention. Instead of arguing with the chemistry of peat, it borrows from the animal world—luring and taking what the air can spare. The cup is a trap, yes, but also a reservoir: rainwater gathered and held, a miniature wetland that mirrors the preserve’s larger one.

There is a tension here that never quite resolves: the plant’s beauty, and the plant’s appetite. We admire the cup’s red veining, the glossy rim, the way the opening flares like a lip; then we remember what the lip is for. We admire the flower’s elegant sheltering forms; then we realize the shelter is also a funnel, a choreography. This is not cruelty—no more than winter is cruelty. It is adaptation made visible, a lesson in how form follows need, and how need can produce something unexpectedly lovely.

And yet the real marvel—the reason I came that day—rises above the traps on a strong stalk, lifted clear of the dangerous mouths below. The flower is not purple in the obvious way its common name promises. It is subtler and stranger: a suspended structure with the poise of a lantern and the protective logic of armor. It struck me as a flower unlike any I have experienced, resembling an insect carapace, with the reproductive element underneath a hood. That hooded design feels less like ornament than strategy—an architecture that guides a pollinator’s route, controlling entrances and exits the way the pitcher controls the fall of an insect.

Even the flower’s back side refuses to perform for the camera. From the posterior angle, “there are only bracts”—plain supporting structures, the botanical equivalent of scaffolding left in place once the facade is finished. The bog, too, shows its scaffolding everywhere: dead stems, old wood, peat-dark water, last year’s leaves. A preserve is never only what is blooming. It is what persists.

I found myself thinking about the details I wanted but could not quite capture that day: the downward facing hairs inside the pitcher—those one-way bristles that make retreat difficult once a victim has slipped in. I or my lens was not up to this challange. The shortcoming was minor, but instructive. The bog offers glimpses, not guarantees. It invites return visits, different light, different seasons, a different kind of patience.

Standing on the platform I felt the preserve’s central truth: these are landscapes shaped by constraint—by ice, by water, by nutrient scarcity, by the slow encroachment of shrubs—and yet they keep producing improbable forms. The purple pitcher plant is one of those forms: a green cup that drinks rain, a flower that wears a hood, a turtle sock that turns hunger into design. In a place where the ground itself seems to refuse abundance, the plant answers with a different kind of richness—an elegance that is also a solution.

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Bells for Christmas

The symbolic power of the numeral three, reflected in various cultural, religious, and secular contexts, underscores its universal significance. From the mystical trinities of gods to the practical applications in rhetoric and storytelling, and the fundamental structure of our physical world, the number three resonates with a sense of completeness, balance, and harmony. Its pervasive presence in different aspects of human thought and culture attests to its enduring and profound symbolism.

Continue reading “Bells for Christmas”

Exploring Malloryville Preserve: A Hidden Glacial Wetland Gem in New York’s Finger Lakes

Explore the O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville, a hidden Finger Lakes wetland where glacial eskers, kettles, and springs reveal the deep story of ice and water.

In the heart of upstate New York, the Finger Lakes region stretches out like a handprint left by the last great ice sheets—long, narrow lakes aligned north to south, their steep-sided valleys feeding into a lattice of creeks, waterfalls, and wetlands. It is a landscape defined by water and time: glaciers grinding south, then melting back north some 12,000 years ago, carving deep troughs, piling up ridges of gravel and sand, and leaving behind a terrain that is anything but simple.

The O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville, near the small village of Freeville, is one of the quiet places where that story is written most clearly on the land. It doesn’t shout like Taughannock Falls or Ithaca’s famous gorges. Instead, it whispers—through the curves of its hills, the softness of its ground, the unexpected appearance of a spring at the base of a gravel ridge. Here, in a relatively compact area, you can see how ice and water worked together to shape the Finger Lakes region we know today.

Overflow from a Kettle Pond threads through a meadow before feeding Fall Creek. The O.D.von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville.

By the time the preserve officially opened in 1997, the name O.D. von Engeln was already familiar to anyone curious about local geology. His classic book on the Finger Lakes helped generations of readers understand that the scenery around them was not random, but the result of powerful, understandable processes. Reading von Engeln, the rolling hills and quiet valleys near Freeville become more than background—they become evidence: of buried ice, rushing meltwater, and the slow settling of sediments into the forms we walk on now.

Malloryville is an outdoor classroom for that lesson. The preserve is built around a cluster of glacial landforms—eskers, kames, and kettles—that create a three-dimensional mosaic of ridges and hollows. Eskers, those long, winding gravel ridges left by rivers that once flowed inside the glacier, snake through the forest like frozen currents of stone. Kames—steep, irregular hills of sand and gravel—rise suddenly from the surrounding lowlands. Kettles, the depressions left behind when buried ice blocks melted away, now cradle wetlands and pools.

Beneath and between these features, groundwater is constantly on the move. It seeps through layers of sand and gravel, emerges as cold springs at the foot of slopes, and spreads out into swamps, fens, and marshes. In the Finger Lakes, water is always telling a story; at Malloryville, it’s simply easier to hear. Follow the trail and you move through a succession of wet worlds: a seep-fed fen with delicate mosses and sedges, a shrub swamp where skunk cabbage thrusts up in early spring, a cattail marsh that hums with birds and insects in summer.

For my family, the story of Malloryville began even before the preserve had a name. We lived nearby along Fall Creek, itself a thread in the larger fabric of the Cayuga Lake watershed. My son and I camped for the first time on top of an esker just beyond our front door, our tent perched on what I would later learn was the remnant of a stream that once tunneled through the base of a glacier. At the time, it was simply a magical narrow ridge in the woods. Only later, with von Engeln’s guidance and the preserve’s interpretive signs, did that ridge become a sentence in a much older, longer narrative.

That is one of the great gifts of the Finger Lakes: the chance to move from simple admiration—“this is beautiful”—to understanding—“this is how it came to be.” The steep slopes along Cayuga, Seneca, or Skaneateles; the drumlin fields near the north ends of the lakes; the hanging valleys and waterfalls; and the quiet wetlands of places like Malloryville are all chapters in the same glacial chronicle. Once you learn to read one place, you begin to read them all.

Walking into the O.D. von Engeln Preserve, you enter that story at a small, intimate scale. The parking area and trailhead give way quickly to a world where the ground feels different—sometimes firm and gravelly, sometimes soft and yielding underfoot. Wooden walkways and narrow paths thread through shady forest and open wetland. Each bend offers a subtle shift: a new plant community, a change in water clarity or flow, a small sign explaining what lies beneath your feet.

Fall Creek meanders through the esker fields of the Malloryville Preserve. Here is the view from an abandoned railroad bridge. The preserve is near Freeville in the Finger Lakes Region of New York State.

This is not grand scenery in the postcard sense; it is something quieter and deeper. Malloryville invites you to slow down and notice. To ask why a particular ridge is so narrow, why water emerges here but not there, why one hollow is filled with shrubs and another with moss and sedge. In learning those answers, you gain not only an appreciation for this modest preserve but also a richer understanding of the entire Finger Lakes region.

The Trout Lily (Erythronium americanum) is named for the mottled brown leaves resembling marking on trout.

In the end, the O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville is a lens—a way of seeing. Through it, the familiar landscapes of central New York—valleys, hills, streams, and lakes—come into sharper focus as the lasting work of ice and water. Stand on an esker, look across a kettle wetland, listen to the quiet trickle of a spring, and you are standing inside the very processes that shaped the Finger Lakes.

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Distant Sapphire II

Cayuga waters reflect a blue November sky.

Cayuga Lake from the south rim of Taughannock Gorge, seen through a veil of hemlock with a carpet of fallen oak leaves, foreground. This is a companion to the previous post, both were handheld. For this the foreground was included to increase interest. For added stability, I rested the camera body on the fence bracketed with my fingers.

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A gallery of the two photographs for comparison.

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Distant Sapphire I

Cayuga waters reflect a blue November sky.

Cayuga waters reflect a blue November sky.

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Photographs in Gallery

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Monarch Butterfly Life Cycle: Egg to Adult (Danaus plexippus) with Photos

From milkweed egg to striped caterpillar, jade chrysalis, and fluttering monarch, witness metamorphosis, migration, and our role in protecting Danaus plexippus across North America today.

On the underside of a milkweed leaf, the world begins small enough to miss unless you kneel and look closely. In this first photograph the newborn is still a whisper of life, a pale pinhead egg collapsed into a glistening scrap, the tiny caterpillar beside it like a gray comma punctuating the green. It has just eaten the soft shell that cradled it—its first meal, its first thrift. The leaf’s pale roads of veins radiate around the hatchling; within that simple map lies all the geography it needs.

By the second photograph appetite has taken its proper throne. These pilgrims wear a uniform of warning: bands of yellow, black, and white—stripes as bright as hazard tape, a heraldic banner advertising the bitterness borrowed from milkweed. Each bite draws down defensive latex; yet the caterpillars feed undeterred, pausing to snip the leaf’s veins to quiet the flow. Their black, threadlike “tentacles” nod as they travel, and their peppery pellets—frass—collect like midnight hail. Five times they will outgrow themselves, shrugging off skins to reveal wider, hungrier versions within. The room is strewn with green rib and ragged edges; the air has the gentle smell of cut stems. All the while, milkweed’s poisons, the cardenolides, pass into growing bodies and become their bodyguard.

At last a hush. A final meal, a purposeful wander. The caterpillar chooses a high eave of the world—a stem, a stick, the corner of your rearing tent—and hooks itself into a downward J. Within hours the skin splits like a soft zipper; the striped creature pours itself out of itself and seals into a smooth chrysalis.

Here, the caterpillar has attached itself to a silk pad from which it hangs. Underneath the skin, the caterpillar is transforming to the chrysalis. In these photographs the silk pad and chrysalis attachment from a previous transformation are in the foreground.
Macro of the Monarch butterfly chrysalis. The black stalk attached to the silk pad is call a cremaster.

The following photograph and video catch the moments into becoming: the jade lantern has become transparent, darkening, its gold studs glinting like constellation points, and through the thinning walls the folded wings show, orange smoldering under smoke. Inside, old tissues have dissolved into a living broth; imaginal discs—tiny blueprints carried since the egg—have flowered into legs, eyes, and flight. To call it “metamorphosis” is correct; to call it mystery is truer.

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When the case opens the butterfly backs into the bright. It clings while the crumpled wings fill and flatten, hemolymph pumping life into every cell. In the next image the adult drinks from a petunia trumpet, a jeweled ember with white-spotted hems. The monarch—Danaus plexippus—tests the wind with new, purposeful wings. Its scientific name nods to ancient stories: Danaus after the Greek mythic king of Argos, a father who fled with his fifty daughters across the sea; plexippus for Plexippus, a figure of the same old tales—his name carried forward into this wanderer of the sky. The English name “monarch” is said to honor both its regal size and domain, and, some say, the orange-and-black of William of Orange. Kings and myths gathered like cloak and scepter around a creature that weighs less than a paperclip.

No butterfly has entered human life more completely. Schoolchildren cradle jars of milkweed sprigs and tape handwritten labels to chrysalides lined like seed pearls along a classroom window. Taggers kneel in September light, add a tiny disc to a wing, and write down time and place so the journey south can be traced. In the mountains of Mexico, where oyamel firs hold winter like a secret, people fold the monarch’s return into the Days of the Dead, believing that souls ride home on those wafers of flame. Gardeners tuck swamp milkweed into narrow beds and call their yards “waystations.” Photographers, such as myself, record the stories that happen leaf by leaf.

In early July a Monarch caterpillar revels in milkweed flowers.

Yet our touch is not simple. Fields simplified by herbicides have shaved milkweed from fencerows; tidy mowing removes nectar from roadsides in the tender weeks of migration; captive rearing in vast numbers, though done with reverence, may carry unintended risks of disease and weakened orientation. The monarch asks us to enlarge our sense of home beyond the fence: to let patches of milkweed lift their pale crowns in rough corners; to choose late-blooming asters and goldenrod; to keep a few ditches shaggy until the travelers pass. Conservation, like metamorphosis, is work that happens inside ordinary days.

Watch the cycle again in my images—egg to appetite, appetite to stillness, stillness to wing—and hear what it whispers in the steady voice of milkweed leaves and soft fall air. Rachel Carson wrote that “those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” Here beauty wears stripes and beads of gold, sips from garden petals, and threads a continent with its frail insistence. The monarch’s life is a ribbon we can follow with our eyes and, if we are willing, with our hands—gentle hands that leave room for milkweed to rise, for caterpillars to feed, for a chrysalis to darken and a window to fill, one bright morning, with wings.

On a personal note, this season was a success. Monarchs visited our milkweed patch several times allowing me to save/harvest nineteen eggs/caterpillars and raise them until release.

Selected references
Carson, Rachel. The Sense of Wonder. New York: Harper & Row, 1965. (Reissued: HarperCollins, 1998; Open Road Media e-book, 2011.) The quoted passage (“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth…”) appears early in the book; the Open Road edition places it on p. 41.
Wikipedia contributors. “Monarch butterfly — Etymology and taxonomy.” (useful overview with primary citations).
Oberhauser, K. S., and M. J. Solensky, eds. The Monarch Butterfly: Biology and Conservation. Cornell University Press, 2004.

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