White Snakeroot: A Native Finger Lakes Wildflower with a Dangerous History

White snakeroot around the Finger Lakes reveals a native wildflower of beauty, poison, pollinator value, layered names, and deep human history.

The white snakeroot stood near the woods along the South Rim Trail, a pale branching spray of flowers lifted out of the shade. I had gone to Taughannock for the gorge walls, the lake light, the shale ledges, and the first yellowing leaves, but this modest herb held its own at the edge of the scene. It was knee to waist high, easy to overlook; yet once seen, it seemed to gather the late summer around itself.

Found along the South Rim Trail. From a walk around Taughannock Falls State Park, down the South rim Trail, up the North Rim Trail. September 14, 2026

White snakeroot, Ageratina altissima, is a poisonous perennial herb in the aster family. It is native to woodland places in the eastern United States and often grows in rich or rocky woods, thickets, stream edges, roadsides, and disturbed ground. Its current accepted botanical name is Ageratina altissima, though older guides may still remember it as Eupatorium rugosum.

Leaves and flower clusters of white snakeroot, Tompkins County, New York.

Later, I began seeing the same composed plainness in the white snakeroot growing in our own yard. Its leaves are opposite, toothed, broadly ovate to somewhat heart-shaped, with pointed tips and slender petioles. The stems rise and divide, and at their ends appear flat-topped clusters of white flower heads. At a closer look, the flowers are not like daisies or other familiar asters. They have no showy rays spreading outward like petals. They are made of small disk flowers, each head a tuft, and the whole plant in bloom becomes a cloud of minute, bristling whiteness. What looks from a distance like foam resolves, near at hand, into many small parts.

A closer look at the flowers of this member of the Aster family

The scientific name begins in a paradox. Ageratina comes from the same root as Ageratum, from Greek language associated with “not aging,” a reference to flowers that keep their color for a long time. The species name altissima means tallest or very tall, and in this case refers to its stature within the genus. A plant found in shade, at the edge of paths, among fallen leaves and shale-gray rock, is given a name that speaks of lasting freshness and height. The name seems, at first, too grand for it. But by September, when many flowers have passed into seed or exhaustion, white snakeroot is still offering its small whiteness to the air.

White snakeroot blooming in our Ithaca yard.

Then come the common names, each one carrying a fragment of human encounter. White snakeroot is the one most often used, and it preserves an old belief that the root could be used against snakebite. Other names collected around it over time: richweed, white sanicle, fall poison, deerweed, Indian sanicle, milk-sickness plant, white top. These names are not synonyms so much as testimonies of different encounters. One person saw the habitat and called it richweed. Another remembered a medicinal resemblance and called it white sanicle. Another learned danger and named it fall poison. The plant stayed where it was, in the shade and edge-growth, while people kept finding new reasons to name it.

The word “snakeroot” is especially revealing. It belongs to a time when usefulness and fear were not separate categories. A root that might heal a bite, a plant that might hold a hidden power, a white bloom appearing at the border of pasture and wood—such things entered household knowledge before they entered botany. The old belief was wrong, but the name endured. Names often do. They are less like labels than sediments, deposited by generations of need, mistake, memory, and caution.

Around the Finger Lakes, white snakeroot seems at home in the broken places where wildness and human passage touch: the edge of a gorge trail, the bank above a creek, a roadside ditch beneath maples, a yard border neglected long enough to become interesting. It does not require the open blaze of a meadow. It tolerates shade. It stands in those green rooms where goldenrod, asters, jewelweed, wood nettle, grasses, young trees, and invasive shrubs may all be negotiating for light. In the late season it becomes part of the pollinator economy of scarcity, offering nectar and pollen when many summer blooms are finished. Bees, butterflies, wasps, flies, beetles, and moths may visit it; extension and conservation sources note its value to late-season pollinators.

A small bouquet spared by the lawnmower.

But this is not a harmless innocence. White snakeroot is one of those plants that shows how beauty and hazard may occupy the same stem. Its toxic history is bound to grazing animals, milk, and settlement. When cattle consumed the plant, toxic compounds could pass into milk, producing the illness once known as milk sickness in people who drank it. Research has associated the toxicity with tremetol, a lipophilic mixture of compounds, and with tremetone-related compounds; the old rural names “trembles” and “milk sickness” record the symptoms and route of harm.

This intersection with humanity is sobering because it was not dramatic in the way a venomous snake is dramatic. The danger did not announce itself with fangs. It entered through the ordinary domestic trust of milk. A cow grazed a shaded edge. A household drank what it had always drunk. Illness followed from a chain no one had yet learned to see. The plant was not malicious. It was only doing what plants do: making compounds in its tissues, surviving in the shade, waiting out the season.

That is one reason I find the plant moving. White snakeroot asks us to look without simplifying. Native does not mean safe. Poisonous does not mean expendable. The same plant that feeds late-season insects also carries the history of milk sickness and frontier fear. It has been cleared from pastures and is welcomed in our woodland garden.

By October its whiteness will give way to seed. The heads will loosen, and the plant will fade into the brown grammar of the season. But in September, around the Finger Lakes, it still stands in the half-light: white, poisonous, useful to insects, burdened with names, and easy to pass by.

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Exploring Taughannock Falls State Park: September Light in the Finger Lakes

A September walk at Taughannock Falls reveals layered cliffs, white snakeroot, drifting clouds, Cayuga Lake, and the quiet threshold between summer and autumn.

On September 14, 2026, Taughannock held itself between seasons. Summer had not yet departed; autumn had not yet claimed the gorge. The trees still wore their full green abundance. Yet, here and there, high on the rims and tucked into the ravine walls, yellow had begun its quiet work. I experienced it as hints, as first thoughts, as small flames beginning among the maples and shrubs.

The view from the South Rim Trail. From a walk around Taughannock Falls State Park, down the South rim Trail, up the North Rim Trail. September 14, 2026

The gorge opened first as architecture: a long cleft of layered stone, inhuman shades of gray, cut by water through an immensity of time. From the rim, the creek below seemed almost modest, a brown-green ribbon moving through a corridor it had patiently made. The cliffs did not appear carved so much as remembered into shape. Bed after bed, ledge after ledge, they held the ancient sea in their faces. The rock seemed written in lines, a ledger of vanished depths, pressure, uplift, frost, collapse, and flow. Trees clung wherever they could. Roots found cracks. Cedars leaned over voids. Hardwood trunks rose from impossible perches, answering stone with leaf.

An extravagant sky above all. This blue, saturated and clean, carried great white clouds across the park like slow, wandering thoughts; too soft for a place so sternly cut by geology. Yet that contrast is part of Taughannock’s power: air and stone, cloud and shale, the brief and the enduring sharing one frame. The clouds drifted without urgency while the gorge below testified to forces that measure themselves in millennia. Standing there, the human mind is pulled in two directions at once—toward the fleeting weather of the day and toward the deep patience of the earth.

Snakeroot, a poisonous perennial herb

Along the wooded trail, the eye dropped from grandeur to intimacy. White snakeroot bloomed in loose clusters, each tiny flower a small, tufted star gathered into a milky constellation above serrated leaves. Behind it, the forest glowed with the filtered green light of late summer. Goldenrod rose farther back, blurred into warmth. The plants seemed not lesser than the falls or cliffs, only quieter. Requiring a different scale of attention. The gorge overwhelms; the flower invites. One must bend inward to see it properly.

Seen from the South Rim Trail.

Through the trees, Cayuga Lake appeared like a blue promise beyond the gorge. Branches crossed the view in dark strokes, turning the scene into a natural stained-glass window: cliff, water, sky, leaf. The lake lay beyond the ravine’s mouth, broad and reflective, suggesting release after confinement. The creek that had moved through shadow and stone would eventually find that open water. There was comfort in that progression: narrowness giving way to breadth, descent becoming arrival.

Mouth of Taughannock Creek as it enters Cayuga Lake

At the lakeside, the mood changed again. The same day, the same park, but another world. A green lawn sloped toward the water, bordered by trees heavy with leaves. The lake opened between them, wind-textured and blue-gray beneath the marching clouds. The place felt pastoral after the sternness of the gorge. Here the land breathed easily: gorge cliffs were replaced by open distance, by the far shore softened with trees and scattered houses. The park became a threshold between cultivated calm and wild excavation.

I enjoy the layered effects of clouds.

Then the camera turned upward, giving the sky its own portrait. The clouds took on presence, no longer background but subject—rounded, luminous, casting faint shadows upon themselves. Below them, lake and shore narrowed into a band, as though the world had been rearranged so that sky could speak first. There is a kind of mercy in such a sky. It loosens the mind. It reminds us that even above a gorge, above evidence of erosion and collapse, there is spaciousness.

Black Swallow-wort (Vincetoxicum nigrum). Found along the North Rim Trail.

Among the cedars, split pods had released their silk. Pale filaments caught on rough branches and evergreen sprays, small scraps of flight arrested in mid-escape. The pods hung dry and curled, their work nearly done. Seeds that had been hidden were now entrusted to air. This, too, was September’s language: opening, loosening, letting go. Not the dramatic fall of leaves yet, but a subtler surrender. The season had begun to unfasten its clasps.

A view from the North Rim Trail.

From another rim view, the gorge wall rose in broken columns and pale faces, half-covered by green. Vegetation softened the precipice but did not conceal it. The cliff remained adamant, a vertical memory of water’s persistence. Far below, the creek bent through bars of exposed stone, and tiny figures on the gorge floor gave scale to the scene. The people were scarcely marks against the immensity, yet their presence mattered. They reminded the eye that wonder is not abstract. Someone stands there, looks up, and receives the place.

The visitors are on the overlook, in the gorge on the bridge and below the falls.

At the overlook, Taughannock Falls appeared framed by stone and leaf, descending in a long white irrepressible column into the dark basin below. The falls seemed both powerful and delicate, a veil and a force. Water dropped from the high lip in strands, gathered itself in motion, then shattered into mist and sound. Around it, the cliffs bore stains, fractures, alcoves, and ledges—the wounds and ornaments made by time. Layers of visitors receed in the foreground, small and temporary, held for a moment before the great amphitheater.

For this view proceed south on the North Rim Trail from the observation area parking. Did you spot the gathering of crows?

Farther along the North Rim Trail, the falls filled the vision. Sunlight touched the rim above; shadow deepened the plunge pool below. The water seemed to fall from brightness into mystery. That is often how memory works: a clear edge, a shining beginning, then a descent into depths we cannot entirely see. Yet the sound continues. The motion continues. The stream that vanishes in shadow reappears downstream, moving toward the lake.

Watch on YouTube for the best experience.

For me, what remains from this walk is a whole sequence: cliff and cloud, snakeroot and seed silk, lake and lawn, distant figures and enduring stone. Taughannock on September 14, 2026, offered no single lesson. It offered a composition of scale. The vast does not cancel the small. The flower belongs beside the gorge. The seed silk belongs beside the falls. The human figure belongs, briefly, gratefully, at the overlook.

By God’s Grace the water keeps falling.

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Frank and Rob: An Unexpected Meeting at Lamberton Conservatory

An unexpected encounter with Frank and Rob, two African tortoises in Rochester, becomes a meditation on discovery, deep time, adaptation, and the virtue of slowness.

There are discoveries we deliberately seek, and others that simply wait for us to notice them. On August 26, during a visit to the Lamberton Conservatory in Rochester’s Highland Park, Pam and I encountered two creatures that belonged firmly to the second category.

We had come to a conservatory, after all—a place where one expects palms reaching toward panes of glass, orchids suspended among roots and moss, and tropical foliage crowding the paths. I was looking at plants when something considerably more substantial appeared on the level, patterned brick path.

A tortoise.

Then another.

Two tortoises interacting on a paved pathway surrounded by greenery.

They moved freely among the vegetation, seemingly as much a part of the conservatory as the plants themselves. Nothing about their progress suggested urgency. Each foot was lifted, advanced and planted with deliberation. In a world increasingly measured in fractions of seconds, they seemed governed by another clock.

The smaller of the two immediately commanded my attention. His high, domed shell was covered with intricate patterns of yellow, tan and dark brown. Individual scutes carried irregular markings that radiated outward, giving the carapace something of the appearance of an ancient mosaic.

A tortoise walking on a brick path, showcasing its textured shell and limbs.

Beside him was an altogether different animal: larger, paler and immensely solid. Her shell was sandy brown, its individual scutes marked by concentric growth ridges. Massive forelegs, armored with heavy scales, supported a body that looked almost prehistoric. If the first tortoise suggested ornament, the second suggested architecture.

I photographed them, fascinated by the contrast.

Close-up of a tortoise shell showcasing its intricate patterns and textures.

Only later did the two strangers acquire names and histories.

Nancy Mastin of Lamberton Conservatory identified the patterned tortoise as Frank, a male leopard tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis), born in 2015. His much larger companion is Rob, a female African spurred, or sulcata, tortoise (Centrochelys sulcata), born in 2016. Both arrived at Lamberton sometime after 2020, donated by private owners who could no longer provide sufficient room for them.

That last detail transforms the encounter.

Frank’s species comes from eastern and southern Africa, where leopard tortoises inhabit savannas and dry grasslands. Their striking shells account for the name. The pattern varies enormously among individuals and changes with age, but Frank retains an especially handsome contrast of dark markings against a warm yellow-brown background.

Rob belongs to a species shaped by harsher country. The sulcata inhabits the semiarid belt along the southern margin of the Sahara, where survival depends partly upon escaping extreme heat. Powerful forelimbs equipped for digging allow these tortoises to excavate substantial burrows. They are giants among terrestrial reptiles—the largest tortoise native to mainland Africa—and their eventual size is precisely why animals purchased when small can become difficult for private owners to accommodate.

Rob is only about ten years old. Frank is about eleven. For animals capable of living for many decades, they are not venerable relics at all. They are comparatively young.

Perhaps that was the greatest surprise.

A tortoise carries age upon its back even when it is young. Its shell evokes fossils, vanished landscapes and evolutionary time. Watching Frank and Rob, I found it difficult not to imagine ancestors moving through African grasslands long before our own species began building conservatories—or cities—or anything else.

Their shells reinforce the illusion. The concentric ridges visible in my close photographs record periods of growth, although they cannot reliably be counted as annual rings. A tortoise shell is not an inert case carried by the animal. It is living anatomy: bone covered by keratinous scutes, growing with the tortoise and protecting a body intimately joined to it.

Yet what I remember most is not anatomy but pace.

Frank was still as Rob approached. Around them rose a manufactured tropics of glass, steel, soil and plants. We passed carefully, Iphones in hand. Somewhere outside, Rochester continued at the speed expected of a modern city.

The tortoises declined to participate in the hurry.

I felt a restoration while watching an animal for which slowness requires no apology. Every movement is sufficient unto itself. A foot advances. Weight shifts. A neck extends. A leaf is investigated. Nothing appears wasted, and nothing appears rushed.

Their presence also tells a quieter human story. Frank and Rob began life in private ownership. As they grew, their needs grew with them until their owners recognized that they could no longer provide adequate space. Donation brought them to Lamberton, where their lives intersected—and, one August afternoon, intersected briefly with mine.

We entered the Conservatory expecting tropical plants. I left with photographs of two African tortoises and, eventually, their names.

Frank and Rob.

That is one of the pleasures of remaining curious: a photograph leads to a species, a species to a name, a name to a history. What began as two unexpected shapes moving beneath tropical foliage became something more memorable—a glimpse of distant Africa, deep evolutionary time, and two remarkably unhurried lives being lived beneath the glass roof of a conservatory in Rochester, New York.

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The Organ-Pipe Mud Dauber Wasp at Our Window

An persistant buzzing at an east-facing window led to an unexpected discovery: an organ-pipe mud dauber tending its earthen nest, revealing a hidden world of architecture, courtship, spider hunting, and parental care just beyond the glass.

On a morning in late July, the songs and raucous calls of Blue Jays, Cardinals, and Carolina Wrens were joined by another sound—an intermittent, insistent buzzing. It seemed to be an angry wasp, an unwelcome distraction as I worked facing the large east-facing picture window. Orchids line the window ledge, their pots and foliage blocking my view of the lower edge where I assumed the insect was trapped.

During one of the silences, I approached with a cup and stiff sheet of paper, prepared to capture the intruder and carry it outdoors. Peering cautiously around the orchid pots, I saw nothing. Then the buzzing resumed. Following the sound, I looked more carefully and discovered something entirely unexpected: affixed to the outside edge of the window was a long tan column of dried earth.

It looked geological—a miniature formation of hardened sediment affixed to the corner of painted wood and glass. Its surface was ridged and corrugated, each irregular band recording some earlier act of construction. At its lower end appeared the architect: a large, lustrous black wasp.

I discovered the wasp’s identity also explained both the strange earthen structure and that surprisingly loud buzz: this was an organ-pipe mud dauber, Trypoxylon politum. The species occurs through much of eastern North America and is the largest member of its genus in our region.

The name is wonderfully descriptive. The female constructs elongated tubes of mud side by side against sheltered walls, bridges, rock faces and buildings. A completed group resembles the vertical pipes of an old church organ. What I had initially taken for a crude column of dirt was, in fact, architecture.

The wasp itself has an austere beauty. Its body is predominantly polished black, sometimes seeming almost blue-black as sunlight catches the wings and exoskeleton. The abdomen is extraordinarily slender near its base before widening toward the end, giving the insect a delicate, elongated silhouette. Long black legs hang beneath it, with pale markings on portions of the hind feet. In my photographs the wings sometimes flash an unexpected smoky violet-blue, while the legs grasp the painted window frame beside the ocher-colored mud. Against that earthy structure the wasp looks almost metallic.

Yet the formidable appearance is misleading. Unlike yellowjackets and other colonial wasps, the organ-pipe mud dauber is essentially solitary. There is no queen commanding a workforce and no populous colony ready to defend the nest. A female constructs and provisions her own nest, and solitary wasps consequently tend to be much less defensive than social species.

But Trypoxylon politum adds a fascinating complication to the word solitary.

A male may remain at the nest while his mate is away. He guards its entrance against intruders—including parasitic insects and rival males—and may produce a conspicuous buzzing when something approaches. That behavior makes me reconsider my first encounter. The creature I heard behind the orchids was not an insect frantically trapped indoors at all. The window glass separated us. I was inside; the wasp was outside, stationed beside its earthen fortress. What sounded to me like anger was vigilance, though I also observed similar buzzing as the female shaped each ball of mud.

The female performs the more astonishing work. She gathers wet mud and carries it repeatedly to the nest, gradually extending a tube. Inside she creates a succession of chambers. Then she becomes a hunter.

Her quarry is spiders.

She captures and paralyzes them, carrying them back to the nest and packing several into each cell—reported numbers range from about three to eighteen spiders with the fertilized female eggs better provisioned. Upon this living but immobilized store of food she lays an egg and seals the chamber with mud. The larva that hatches within has a private larder of fresh prey. Another chamber follows, and another, until the peculiar earthen pipe becomes a nursery divided into hidden rooms.

Watch two wasps building the nest.

There is something almost unsettling in that knowledge. Within the rough tan structure, a nest, on our window frame lie spiders gathered from our garden, each incorporated into the reproductive cycle of another animal. Predator becomes provision; mud becomes shelter; a few inches of ordinary window trim become an ecosystem.

That is what held my attention long after the original buzzing ceased. I had sat only a few feet away, day after day, unaware that another creature was carrying out an intricate sequence of hunting, construction, mating and parental investment on the opposite side of the glass.

The window had seemed a boundary between our house and the natural world. The organ-pipe mud dauber revealed it to be something else: a place where the two worlds meet.

And all it took for me to notice was a buzz.

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Scarlet Bee Balm and Bottlebrush Grass in Treman Park

Discover scarlet bee balm and eastern bottlebrush grass along Robert H. Treman’s South Rim Trail, where native plants reveal Finger Lakes ecology, history, and culture.

In July, the South Rim Trail of Robert H. Treman State the gorge gathers coolness, a refuge on sultry Finger Lakes summer afternoons. Beneath hemlocks and northern hardwoods, the air seems older, quieter, touched by water moving somewhere below. The trail passes between the intimacy of Enfield Glen and, higher up the gorge, the larger wandering course of the Finger Lakes Trail draws me away from ordinary measures of distance and urgency. In such a place, attention gradually changes. The forest ceases to be a green background and becomes a society of distinct lives.

A footbridge on the South Rim trail crosses a feeder stream to Enfield Creek.

It was in this receptive state that I encountered colonies of scarlet bee balm on either side of the Finger Lakes Trail. The crimson flower heads rising above the surrounding vegetation like scattered signal fires. The color seemed almost impossible in the woodland light—not delicate or retiring, but exuberant. Each blossom rewarded a closer look, resolving into a wild arrangement of slender red tubes, curling lips, dark centers, and leaflike bracts. Here a native plant announces itself with an exotic richness.

Scarlett Bee Balm bloomed throughout well watered flatlands of the park and surroundings.

Scarlet bee balm, Monarda didyma, is an herbaceous perennial in the mint family, Lamiaceae. It is native to eastern North America and especially at home in moist woods, stream margins, thickets, and bottomlands. Its square stems, opposite serrated leaves, and aromatic oils disclose its kinship with other mints. Beneath the soil, spreading rhizomes enable it to form colonies. What appears from a distance to be one shaggy flower is actually a crowded head of many narrow, two-lipped flowers, each offering its own small entrance to nectar.

Scarlet Bee Balm rewards a close inspection

The scarlet tubes are beautifully suited to the ruby-throated hummingbird. A bird hovering before the flower reaches into the corolla with its long bill and carries pollen away on its head, becoming for a moment part of the plant’s reproductive life. Bumblebees, butterflies, and moths also visit. Members of the genus support several specialized native bees, while the dead hollow stems can provide nesting places for stem-nesting species. Even after flowering, therefore, bee balm continues to participate in the forest community. Its importance is not exhausted by its beauty.

Nipplewort growing among Scarlet Bee Balm

Humans have also entered into a long relationship with Monarda didyma. One of its common names, Oswego tea, remembers its use by the Oswego people of New York, who prepared the aromatic leaves as a beverage. Indigenous communities employed bee balm in varied medicinal traditions, and later settlers adopted it for teas and household remedies. Its leaves and edible flowers have been used to flavor jellies, soups, stews, and fruit dishes. Thymol, a component associated with Monarda oils, has found use in commercial antiseptic preparations. These histories deepen the encounter. The plant is a bearer of ecological and cultural memory, current posibilities. It is best to check with local regulations as foraging and collecting is regulated in New York Park lands.

Eastern bottlebrush grass offers a quieter kind of revelation. A native, cool-season perennial of the grass family, Poaceae, Elymus hystrix inhabits deciduous woods and shaded edges across much of eastern and central North America. Its specific name, hystrix, means “hedgehog,” an affectionate description of the long, radiating awns that give each seed head its bristling form. In the photograph, those awns catch the light so finely that the plant seems drawn with green wire against the luminous forest. Unlike bee balm, it does not advertise to hummingbirds or bees. Its flowers are wind-pollinated, their pale anthers releasing pollen into the moving air.

Bottlebruxh Grass catching afternoon dappled forest light

Where bee balm calls to birds and insects with color and nectar, bottlebrush grass entrusts its pollen to the wind. Its flowering is easily overlooked because grasses seldom conform to our habitual idea of a flower. There are no bright petals, no perfume meant to attract an animal visitor. Pale anthers emerge, air moves through the open spikelets, and pollen passes invisibly from plant to plant. Its apparent simplicity is the refinement of a different evolutionary strategy.

Bottlebrush grass sustains other lives in less conspicuous ways. Its foliage feeds the caterpillars of the northern pearly-eye butterfly and several moth species. Birds and white-footed mice eat its seeds, while grazing animals browse the tender young leaves. Its fibrous roots help hold woodland soil, and its tolerance of shade allows it to flourish beneath a leafy canopy where many grasses cannot. Cornell Botanic Gardens also records a Haudenosaunee practice involving a preparation of its leaves and reed-grass rootstocks in treating corn seed before planting—another meeting of botanical and cultural knowledge.

Today Elymus hystrix is increasingly welcomed into native woodland gardens, naturalized plantings, and erosion-control areas. Its seed heads bring movement and texture to shaded landscapes and can be used in floral arrangements. Monarda didyma, meanwhile, has become a familiar inhabitant of pollinator gardens and rain gardens. Cultivated thoughtfully, both plants allow a human landscape to recover some of the relationships present in a functioning woodland: roots securing soil, insects finding food, birds gathering seed, and seasons being permitted to complete themselves.

Encountered together, the two plants seemed to embody complementary ways of belonging. Scarlet bee balm was ardor made visible—bright, aromatic, and alive with invitation. Eastern bottlebrush was reticence and patience, revealing its elegance only to a lingering eye. One reached outward through color; the other surrendered itself to wind.

The afternoon’s discoveries thus offered two ways of being visible. Monarda didyma flared outward—scarlet, aromatic, thronged with visitors. Elymus hystrix waited for a shaft of light and an attentive eye. Between them lay the shaded South Rim Trail, the bridge, the climbing path, and the patient green world through which they conduct their separate lives. To walk there was to learn again that beauty is relationship: roots holding soil, wind carrying pollen, a hummingbird entering a red corolla, a mouse gathering seed, and a hiker pausing long enough for the forest to become particular.

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Flowering Quince on West Hill: A Legacy in Coral

Legacy flowering quince on Ithaca’s West Hill blooms in coral-pink spring light, joining family memory, Asian origins, garden ecology, and enduring beauty.

In early spring, before the trees have fully committed themselves to leaf, flowering quince makes its announcement with a theatrical confidence. Against the dark lacework of spruce, bare twigs, old fencing, and the still-waking ground of Ithaca’s West Hill, the blossoms appear like embers held in suspension: coral-pink petals gathered around bright yellow stamens. My photographs, taken in April 2023 and 2026, capture a living inheritance—one planted by Charles and Betty Sprinkle and still answering the calendar long after the original hands that set it in place have passed from the daily life of the garden.

Flowering quince belongs to the genus Chaenomeles, in the rose family, Rosaceae. It is related not only to roses, but also to apples, pears, hawthorns, cherries, and true quince. The common name can be confusing: flowering quince is not the same as the orchard quince, Cydonia oblonga, grown primarily for its large aromatic fruit. Botanists separated Chaenomeles from Cydonia in the nineteenth century, partly on floral and fruit-anatomy differences; in ordinary garden terms, Chaenomeles is the ornamental, early-blooming shrub, while Cydonia is the more familiar fruiting quince tree.

The plant in these photographs is the old-fashioned flowering quinces commonly planted around mid-century homes—possibly Chaenomeles speciosa, one of its cultivars, or a hybrid involving C. speciosa and C. japonica. C. speciosa is native to China, Tibet, and Myanmar, while C. japonica is native to Japan and South Korea; many garden forms have been selected or hybridized for flower color, compactness, and bloom density. The soft rose-pink color here suggests one of the pink-flowered ornamental selections rather than the scarlet-orange forms often illustrated in plant guides.

Its structure is as important as its bloom. Flowering quince is typically a dense, twiggy, deciduous shrub, often with tangled or spiny branches. That architecture is visible in the photographs: a weave of dark stems, new leaves, and blossoms occupying the middle layer of the garden, neither groundcover nor tree, but a persistent shrub-wall of spring. In older plantings, such shrubs can become almost sculptural, their branches accumulating years of pruning, browsing, weather, and recovery. The thorns, absent in our planting, are part of some quince varietys defensive character and can explain its frequent use as a barrier hedge or boundary planting.

Ecologically, flowering quince is most valuable because of its timing. It blooms very early—often late March into April in temperate gardens—when many woody plants are still dormant and early insects are beginning to forage. Its open, bowl-shaped flowers present pollen accessibly, and the golden stamens in these images show why bees and other early pollinators may visit. In a cold-spring landscape like Ithaca, a shrub that blooms before the canopy closes and before herbaceous growth thickens can become a small seasonal resource station. The plant is not native to New York, so it does not occupy the same ecological role as serviceberry, spicebush, willow, or native cherries; nevertheless, in a settled garden, it participates in the spring economy of nectar, pollen, shelter, and fruit.

After bloom, flowering quince may produce hard, yellow-green, apple-like fruits. These can be too hard and tart to enjoy raw, but they have traditionally been used in preserves, jellies, and cooked preparations, much like true quince. We have yet to enjoy the fruits of this plant in this way.

The success of our quince in Ithaca is not surprising. Flowering quince is notably tough: tolerant of cold winters, urban edges, clay or loam soils, and partial shade, though it blooms best with good sun. The shrubs prefer reasonably well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soils and may object to strongly alkaline conditions. On West Hill, where our home holds layered plantings of conifers, shrubs, fences, paths, and family memory, it fits the vernacular garden perfectly—durable, somewhat unruly, generous in season, and never entirely domesticated.

What my photographs gather in their emotional force is the contrast between delicacy and persistence. Each blossom looks temporary, almost papery, the petals thin enough to hold sunlight. Yet the shrub itself is a survivor. It has endured winters, dry spells, shade competition, pruning, neglect, and the ordinary upheavals of family life. Charles and Betty Sprinkle planted it for beauty and simple spring pleasure. Decades later, it continues to bloom on their behalf.

In that sense, flowering quince is a fitting legacy plant. It does not ask for ceremony. It returns by season rather than by command. One April afternoon it is just bare stems and swelling buds; another, it becomes a spray of coral lights beneath the evergreens. Its flowers open into the cool air of Ithaca, briefly bright, then gone—yet the shrub remains, holding memory in wood, root, and bloom.

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McLean Bogs in Early Spring: Pitcher Plants, Skunk Cabbage, a Quiet Walk with Grandchildren

A quiet early spring walk through McLean Bogs reveals pitcher plants, skunk cabbage, and the subtle beauty of glacial wetlands shared with grandchildren.

The path into McLean Bogs begins without ceremony, a narrowing of the world. The road falls away, the trees gather closer, and the ground softens underfoot, remembering water. You arrive at a threshold. The air seems altered, quieter, carrying a faint mineral stillness, as though the glacier that shaped this place has not entirely withdrawn its presence.

McLean Bog, Tompkins County, New York State part of Cornell Botanical Gardens

The pond holds the sky with patient fidelity. Its surface is dark, reflective, contemplative—mirroring a band of bare trees and the pale sweep of early-spring cloud. Nothing disturbs it. No wind, no bird, no ripple of urgency. It is the kind of water that asks nothing of you except attention. And in giving it, you feel the pace of your own thoughts begin to slow, as if they too must match the bog’s ancient tempo.

At the edge, grasses stand in muted gold, last year’s growth bowed but not broken. They frame the water as do an unfinished sentence. You can imagine how, in another month, this quiet will be interrupted by green—by the rising insistence of life. But today, the landscape is held in suspension, between endings and beginnings.

On the boardwalk, my grandsons, Sam and Rory, find what the place offers most readily: evidence. A small gray pellet of fur and bone delicately assembled and then discarded. Nearby, a twisting length of scat, marked with the unmistakable language of survival. These are not the symbols we teach in books, but they are legible all the same. The boys lean close, curious, unbothered by what adults might turn away from. To them, this is not unpleasant—it is a clue, a message left behind by an unseen life moving through the same narrow corridors of forest and marsh.

There is something honest in that exchange. The bog does not disguise itself. It offers no curated beauty, no ornamental flourish. What it gives instead is continuity—the quiet assurance that life persists in forms both delicate and stark. And the children, without pretense, receive it as it is.

Deeper in the woods, a small structure of branches rises against the trunk of a tree, a lean-to, improvised and incomplete. Its architecture is simple, almost instinctive, a tentative answer to the question of shelter. Sam and Rory stand before it, boots sunk slightly in the soft ground, their bodies close together in that unconscious gesture of kinship. One leans into the other, not for support exactly, but for connection.

Behind them, the forest extends in gray and brown, a lattice of trunks and fallen limbs. It is not the lush abundance of summer, but something more revealing—a stripped-down anatomy of place. Here you see the bones of the landscape, the structure beneath the surface. And in that exposure, there is a different kind of beauty, one relies on form, on persistence, on time itself.

The boardwalk carries you out into the open bog, where the ground gives way to water and moss. It is a narrow path, elevated just enough to allow passage, and it bends gently, as though respecting the terrain rather than imposing upon it. Rory walks ahead, small against the expanse, following the curve without question. There is trust in that movement—the simple faith that the path will hold, that it leads somewhere worth going.

Around you, the bog stretches in subtle variation. Patches of standing water reflect a green that seems almost improbable in this season, the work of mosses and algae that thrive where others cannot. The vegetation is low, dense, textured—a mosaic rather than a meadow. And here and there, like small embers against the muted field, the pitchers rise.

The pitcher plants are both beautiful and unsettling. Their deep red forms, veined with intricate patterns, hold themselves open to the world. They are vessels, yes, and thresholds, invitations with consequence. Insects, drawn by color or scent, enter and do not leave. It is easy to think of them as passive, but they are anything but. They are active participants in the exchange of life, taking what the poor soil cannot provide.

You kneel to look more closely, drawn in despite yourself. The interior of the pitcher is a map of intention—every line, every curve serving a purpose. And yet, there is an elegance to it, a precision that feels almost artistic. It is not cruelty, exactly, but necessity rendered with a kind of quiet grace.

McLean Bog, Tompkins County, New York State part of Cornell Botanical Gardens

Elsewhere, the first signs of skunk cabbage emerge, their dark, curved forms pushing through saturated ground. They are early risers, indifferent to cold, generating their own heat to break through frost. They do not wait for spring; they create their own version of it. Scattered across the forest floor, they resemble a field of small, listening shapes—each one a declaration that life does not always arrive gently.

And so you move through the bog as a participant in its slow unfolding. Sam and Rory run ahead, then return, their boots muddy, their hands full of nothing in particular. They do not need to name what they have seen. The experience is enough.

As we return to the preserve edge, this sign stands—formal, declarative, assigning significance in the language of designation: Registered Natural Landmark. This place is important, rare, worthy of protection. But the words feel almost secondary after what you have just walked through.

McLEAN BOGS has been designated a REGISTERED NATURAL LANDMARK

This site possesses exceptional value as an illustration of the nation’s natural heritage and contributes to a better understanding of man’s environment.
National Park Service, United States Department of the Interior 1973.

Because the true measure of McLean Bogs is not in its classification, but in its effect. It changes the rhythm of your thinking. It draws your attention downward—to the ground beneath your feet, to the subtle movements of water and growth, to the quiet negotiations of life that continues with or without witnesses.

And perhaps that is what Thoreau meant, though he said it more simply: that heaven is not only above us, distant and abstract, but also here, immediate and tangible, woven into the fabric of the earth itself.

In the bog, that idea does not feel like metaphor. It feels like observation.

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Where Winter Yields: Skunk Cabbage, Pitcher Plants, and Milky Ice at Malloryville Preserve

A late winter walk through Malloryville Preserve reveals milky ice, emerging skunk cabbage, and hidden wetland life—seen through the curious eyes of grandchildren.

The morning began in that quiet register peculiar to late winter in the Finger Lakes—when the calendar insists on spring, yet the land, still half-claimed by frost, speaks in a more cautious dialect. At the O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville, the woods held both seasons in tension. Snow lingered in shaded hollows, while the exposed ground, damp and rust-colored, breathed with thaw.

Sam and Rory—boots muddied almost immediately—climbed atop a great, weathered stump, its cut face fanned with the geometry of years. There is something about a stump that invites children upward, as though it were not a remnant but a stage. From their perch they surveyed a kingdom of bare trunks and quiet trails, their laughter momentarily lifting the stillness. Behind them, the forest rose in gray-brown columns, and beneath them, the history of a tree—rings like a clock no one can wind backward.

We moved downslope toward the seepage-fed lowlands that give this preserve its particular character. Here, the ground softens, water gathers, and winter lingers longer in pockets of ice that seem reluctant to relinquish their hold. The ice itself told a story—not clear and crystalline, but cloudy, milky, almost opalescent. This opacity is the signature of trapped air, minute bubbles frozen in suspension as water repeatedly melts and refreezes. Each cycle interrupts the orderly lattice of ice, scattering light and transforming transparency into a pale, diffused glow. It is ice that remembers its instability.

Threading through this ice were narrow rivulets of meltwater, tracing paths around moss-covered hummocks. These islands—bright green even in winter—rose like miniature continents in a frozen sea. On one such hummock, we found this skunk cabbage. Its mottled spathe, deep maroon flecked with yellow, pushed upward through the cold, its form both alien and ancient. I pointed out to the boys that this plant generates its own heat—a metabolic furnace capable of melting the surrounding snow. It is one of the earliest heralds of spring, though it announces itself not with color alone, but with scent—a pungency that walked with us that day.

Nearby, nestled in the sphagnum, were the pitcher plants—Sarracenia purpurea—their tubular leaves tinged with winter’s reds and greens. Even in dormancy, they held their form, each pitcher a small reservoir. I explained how these plants supplement the nutrient-poor conditions of the bog by capturing insects, their modified leaves forming a subtle trap. The boys leaned in, curious, perhaps imagining the unseen dramas that would unfold here in warmer months.

The wetland was a place of plants and textures. The ice thinned near the edges, revealing water beneath that reflected the vertical lines of trees above. Droplets fell intermittently from branches, punctuating the quiet with soft, irregular taps. It was a landscape in transition, each element negotiating its passage from one state to another.

Along a tangle of shrubs, I noticed an unusual growth—a dense, broom-like cluster of twigs protruding from what appeared to be a highbush blueberry. This “witches’ broom” is often the result of fungal infection or other physiological stress, causing the plant to produce a profusion of shoots from a single point. To a child’s eye, it might seem like a bird’s nest or some deliberate construction, but it is, in fact, the plant’s own altered architecture—a distortion that nonetheless becomes part of the ecosystem, offering shelter to small creatures.

Further along, a fallen log bore the layered forms of shelf fungi, each bracket extending outward like a series of pages half-opened. Their colors—muted tans and browns—blended with the wood, yet their structure was unmistakable. These polypores are the quiet recyclers of the forest, breaking down lignin and cellulose, returning the substance of the tree to the soil. I ran my fingers lightly along their surface, feeling the fine texture, while the boys, less cautious, tapped them as though testing their solidity.

On the bark of a nearby tree, we encountered a patch of what looked like pale, fuzzy insulation—the egg mass of the spongy moth. I explained that each of these masses could contain hundreds of eggs, waiting for the warmth of spring to hatch. It was a reminder that even in this subdued season, the next wave of life was already prepared, concealed in plain sight.

As we made our way back, the boys’ boots squelched in the soft ground, their earlier perch on the stump now a distant memory. Yet the morning had offered them—and me—something more enduring than a climb. It had revealed a landscape in flux, where ice is not merely frozen water but a record of change, where plants defy cold through chemistry, and where even decay participates in renewal.

Late winter, in a place like Malloryville, is not an absence of life but a study in persistence. It asks for attention, for patience, and for a willingness to see beauty in transition. Walking with Sam and Rory, I was reminded that discovery does not wait for spring. It is already here, written in ice, moss, and the quiet industry of the forest.

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The Yarb Woman of Cornell: Elfriede Abbe’s Tribute to Herbal Wisdom in the Botanic Gardens

A quiet encounter with Elfriede Abbe’s Yarb Woman reveals the enduring wisdom of herbal traditions, inviting reflection in the intimate stillness of Cornell’s Herb Garden.

We did not come upon her the way you come upon a monument. On a late winter morning my sister and I chose to walk through the pergola alongside the Richard M. Lewis Education Center and there she was.

There is no plaza, no axial approach, no insistence. Instead, the Yarb Woman statue waits in a corner of the Robison New York State Herb Garden, where paths narrow and attention shifts from spectacle to detail. The pergola frames the space, the beds lie dormant or fragrant depending on the season, and there—almost at eye level with the plants—is the woman herself, bent into her work.

Yarb Woman, Elfriede Abbe, sculptor, The Auraca AHerbarists, May 6, 1980. Robison New York State Herb Garden, Cornell Botanical Gardens, Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State.

Her posture is one of reguard. That is the first instruction. Her posture is a study in intention: forward-leaning, balanced, attentive. One hand gathers, the other steadies. She is caught mid-action, not posed. This is a figure practicing herbal knowledge.

Right hand on spade handle

And because of that, she alters the space around her. Standing there to regard the statue the garden becomes a workplace—a field of quiet labor. Each plant is no longer merely labeled but noticed. The dried hydrangea beside her, the winter stems, the low green groundcover—everything begins to feel like it belongs to her attention.

Left hand grasping plants, pockets full

We began to notice the small offerings at her feet—stones, a tiny object left by a passerby—that suggest that others have felt this shift. Not worship, exactly, but recognition. A kind of informal acknowledgment that this figure gathers more than herbs; she gathers meaning from the overlooked.

There is something deliberate in her scale. She is not monumental. She does not dominate the garden. Instead, she invites you downward—to stoop, to look, to consider what is beneath your habitual line of sight.

This is consistent the sculptor, Elfriede Abbe’s, larger artistic life. She was not drawn to grand gestures but to process: carving wood, printing pages, observing the minute structures of plants. In “Yarb Woman”, that ethic becomes embodied. The sculpture is less about a person than about a way of being in the world.

To gather. To attend.To work with care.

Standing there, you may feel the subtle inversion: the garden becomes something you enter into, as she has. The distance between observer and participant narrows.

And time shifts slightly. The date on the plaque—1980—anchors the piece historically, but the figure herself resists that anchoring. Herbal practice stretches backward through centuries of unnamed practitioners, most of them women, most of them unrecorded. She could belong to any of them. Or to all.

Yarb Woman, Elfriede Abbe, sculptor, The Auraca AHerbarists, May 6, 1980. Robison New York State Herb Garden, Cornell Botanical Gardens, Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State.

Even the word “yarb” participates in this temporal layering—an old word surviving in a modern garden, just as old knowledge survives in new forms.

Yarb Woman, Elfriede Abbe, sculptor, The Auraca AHerbarists, May 6, 1980. Robison New York State Herb Garden, Cornell Botanical Gardens, Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State.

What we encountered, then, was not simply a sculpture. It was a quiet proposition:

That knowledge can be gathered slowly.
That attention is a form of reverence.
And that in the midst of a university—of speed, abstraction, and analysis—there remains a place where understanding begins with kneeling close to the ground.

And noticing what grows there.

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Copyright 2026 All Rights Reserved Michael Stephen Wills

The Science and Poetry of Melting Ice: Cayuga Lake During a Winter Thaw

Under a blue February sky, Cayuga Lake keeps its icy grip, revealing how light, time, and physics conspire to make winter’s farewell a slow, luminous negotiation.

These photographs, made along the frozen margin of Cayuga Lake at Cass Park in mid-February 2026, carry a quiet paradox. The sky is a lucid blue, the light has that late-winter clarity that hints at spring, and yet the lake remains locked under a pale, glassy skin. A few geese stitch the air. A bench waits. Red and white beacons stand where water should be moving. The moment is fixed: late afternoon light in February, Finger Lakes winter—but the deeper story is written in physics, not pixels: why does lake ice linger so stubbornly during a thaw?

The short answer is that water is a hoarder of heat and ice is a keeper of promises. The long answer is the reason these scenes feel suspended between seasons.

Start with the cost of melting itself. Ice does not simply warm into water; it must first be converted, and that conversion demands a large, fixed payment of energy known as the latent heat of fusion. To melt just one kilogram of ice takes about 334,000 joules—and that energy raises the temperature not at all. It is spent entirely on changing solid to liquid.

Scale that up to a lake surface and the numbers become sobering. Even a modest sheet of ice—say ten centimeters thick—contains roughly ninety kilograms of ice per square meter. Melting that much requires on the order of thirty million joules per square meter. To put this in a human context, in 1 kcal there are 4,184 joules. Melting a square meter of ice requres 7,170 kilocalories (kcals) or 3.6 days for a person expending 2,000 kcals per day. Spread across square kilometers of lake, the energy bill climbs into the tens of terajoules. That is the hidden arithmetic behind the familiar disappointment of a February thaw: a few warm days feel dramatic to us, but to a lake they are only a small down payment.

This leads to the second, more subtle constraint: melting ice keeps itself cold. As long as ice is present, the surface of the lake is pinned near 0 °C (32 °F). Incoming heat does not make the surface warmer; it simply converts more ice into water at the same temperature. The thin layer of meltwater that forms on top is also near freezing, so the entire interface remains locked at winter’s threshold. There is no “warming momentum” here—no quick rise in temperature to accelerate the process. The system quietly consumes energy without changing its outward thermal expression.

That is why the lake in these images can look bright and almost springlike while remaining physically winterbound. Sunlight is being spent on erasure, not on warming.

A third rule of water deepens the delay. Freshwater is densest not at freezing, but at about 4 °C (39 °F). In early spring conditions, the coldest water—near 0 °C—floats. The slightly warmer, denser water below tends to stay below. This creates a stable stratification: a cold, near-freezing surface layer sitting like a lid on the lake.

The consequence is crucial. The lake cannot easily mix warmer subsurface water upward to attack the ice from below. The thaw must work mainly from the top and the edges—where sunlight, mild air, rain, and shoreline heat can do their work—rather than through a coordinated, whole-lake turnover. In practical terms, the ice is dismantled by margins and seams, not by a sudden, uniform collapse.

Add to this the reflective nature of ice and snow. The pale surface in these photographs is not merely beautiful; it is also defensive. Bright ice and snow reflect a significant fraction of incoming sunlight back into the sky. Dark, open water would absorb that energy eagerly and warm quickly. As long as the lake remains light-toned, it is actively rejecting some of the very energy that could hasten its release.

Thickness and structure matter too. Winter does not lay down a single, simple sheet. It builds layers: clear black ice, milky refrozen crusts, snow-ice composites, trapped bubbles—each a page in winter’s ledger. A brief thaw may soften the surface, open a lead near shore, or trace fine cracks across the sheet, but the bulk remains. In the closer views—the lighthouse and the red beacon standing in frozen sheen—you can see subtle tonal shifts and faint stress lines, the calligraphy of slow change. These are signs of negotiation, not surrender.

Scale, finally, is destiny. Cayuga is long and deep; it behaves more like a small inland sea than a pond. Small waters can change their minds quickly. Large waters are conservative. They remember. The heat they lost in autumn must be repaid, carefully and in full, before winter loosens its hold. This is why harbors and shallows darken first, why the margins in these scenes show hints of movement while the center keeps its pale composure.

Put together, these rules explain the peculiar patience of February ice. The thaw is not a switch but an accounting. Enormous quantities of energy must be delivered just to accomplish the phase change. While that work is underway, the surface temperature barely moves. The cold meltwater stays on top, limiting mixing. The bright surface reflects sunlight. The lake, in effect, resists haste through the ordinary, unromantic laws of physics.

There is an austere beauty in this. Ice is a temporary architecture built by the loss of heat, and its demolition requires an equally disciplined repayment. The quiet in these images is the quiet of bookkeeping—joules being transferred, layers being undone, thresholds being approached but not yet crossed. When the change finally comes, it often feels sudden: a windy day that breaks the sheet into plates, a warm rain that darkens the surface, a week when the margins retreat visibly. But that drama is only the visible last act of a long, invisible exchange.

So the lake lingers. Not out of stubbornness, but out of fidelity to the rules that govern it. Under a sky that already looks like April, Cayuga is still paying winter’s invoice. The ice remains until the account is settled—and when it finally goes, the benches will no longer face a mirror of light, but a moving field of dark water, ready once again to begin the long work of storing heat for another year.

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