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Where Winter Yields: Skunk Cabbage, Pitcher Plants, and Milky Ice at Malloryville Preserve

A late winter walk through Malloryville Preserve reveals milky ice, emerging skunk cabbage, and hidden wetland life—seen through the curious eyes of grandchildren.

MichaelStephenWills7 Comments

The morning began in that quiet register peculiar to late winter in the Finger Lakes—when the calendar insists on spring, yet the land, still half-claimed by frost, speaks in a more cautious dialect. At the O.D. von Engeln Preserve at Malloryville, the woods held both seasons in tension. Snow lingered in shaded hollows, while the exposed ground, damp and rust-colored, breathed with thaw.

Sam and Rory—boots muddied almost immediately—climbed atop a great, weathered stump, its cut face fanned with the geometry of years. There is something about a stump that invites children upward, as though it were not a remnant but a stage. From their perch they surveyed a kingdom of bare trunks and quiet trails, their laughter momentarily lifting the stillness. Behind them, the forest rose in gray-brown columns, and beneath them, the history of a tree—rings like a clock no one can wind backward.

We moved downslope toward the seepage-fed lowlands that give this preserve its particular character. Here, the ground softens, water gathers, and winter lingers longer in pockets of ice that seem reluctant to relinquish their hold. The ice itself told a story—not clear and crystalline, but cloudy, milky, almost opalescent. This opacity is the signature of trapped air, minute bubbles frozen in suspension as water repeatedly melts and refreezes. Each cycle interrupts the orderly lattice of ice, scattering light and transforming transparency into a pale, diffused glow. It is ice that remembers its instability.

Threading through this ice were narrow rivulets of meltwater, tracing paths around moss-covered hummocks. These islands—bright green even in winter—rose like miniature continents in a frozen sea. On one such hummock, we found this skunk cabbage. Its mottled spathe, deep maroon flecked with yellow, pushed upward through the cold, its form both alien and ancient. I pointed out to the boys that this plant generates its own heat—a metabolic furnace capable of melting the surrounding snow. It is one of the earliest heralds of spring, though it announces itself not with color alone, but with scent—a pungency that walked with us that day.

Nearby, nestled in the sphagnum, were the pitcher plants—Sarracenia purpurea—their tubular leaves tinged with winter’s reds and greens. Even in dormancy, they held their form, each pitcher a small reservoir. I explained how these plants supplement the nutrient-poor conditions of the bog by capturing insects, their modified leaves forming a subtle trap. The boys leaned in, curious, perhaps imagining the unseen dramas that would unfold here in warmer months.

The North American genus Sarracenia are the trumpet pitchers, which have a more complex trap than Heliamphora, with an operculum, which prevents excess accumulation of rainwater in most of the species.

The wetland was a place of plants and textures. The ice thinned near the edges, revealing water beneath that reflected the vertical lines of trees above. Droplets fell intermittently from branches, punctuating the quiet with soft, irregular taps. It was a landscape in transition, each element negotiating its passage from one state to another.

Along a tangle of shrubs, I noticed an unusual growth—a dense, broom-like cluster of twigs protruding from what appeared to be a highbush blueberry. This “witches’ broom” is often the result of fungal infection or other physiological stress, causing the plant to produce a profusion of shoots from a single point. To a child’s eye, it might seem like a bird’s nest or some deliberate construction, but it is, in fact, the plant’s own altered architecture—a distortion that nonetheless becomes part of the ecosystem, offering shelter to small creatures.

Further along, a fallen log bore the layered forms of shelf fungi, each bracket extending outward like a series of pages half-opened. Their colors—muted tans and browns—blended with the wood, yet their structure was unmistakable. These polypores are the quiet recyclers of the forest, breaking down lignin and cellulose, returning the substance of the tree to the soil. I ran my fingers lightly along their surface, feeling the fine texture, while the boys, less cautious, tapped them as though testing their solidity.

On the bark of a nearby tree, we encountered a patch of what looked like pale, fuzzy insulation—the egg mass of the spongy moth. I explained that each of these masses could contain hundreds of eggs, waiting for the warmth of spring to hatch. It was a reminder that even in this subdued season, the next wave of life was already prepared, concealed in plain sight.

As we made our way back, the boys’ boots squelched in the soft ground, their earlier perch on the stump now a distant memory. Yet the morning had offered them—and me—something more enduring than a climb. It had revealed a landscape in flux, where ice is not merely frozen water but a record of change, where plants defy cold through chemistry, and where even decay participates in renewal.

Late winter, in a place like Malloryville, is not an absence of life but a study in persistence. It asks for attention, for patience, and for a willingness to see beauty in transition. Walking with Sam and Rory, I was reminded that discovery does not wait for spring. It is already here, written in ice, moss, and the quiet industry of the forest.

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The Yarb Woman of Cornell: Elfriede Abbe’s Tribute to Herbal Wisdom in the Botanic Gardens

A quiet encounter with Elfriede Abbe’s Yarb Woman reveals the enduring wisdom of herbal traditions, inviting reflection in the intimate stillness of Cornell’s Herb Garden.

MichaelStephenWills7 Comments

We did not come upon her the way you come upon a monument. On a late winter morning my sister and I chose to walk through the pergola alongside the Richard M. Lewis Education Center and there she was.

There is no plaza, no axial approach, no insistence. Instead, the Yarb Woman statue waits in a corner of the Robison New York State Herb Garden, where paths narrow and attention shifts from spectacle to detail. The pergola frames the space, the beds lie dormant or fragrant depending on the season, and there—almost at eye level with the plants—is the woman herself, bent into her work.

Yarb Woman, Elfriede Abbe, sculptor, The Auraca AHerbarists, May 6, 1980. Robison New York State Herb Garden, Cornell Botanical Gardens, Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State.

Her posture is one of reguard. That is the first instruction. Her posture is a study in intention: forward-leaning, balanced, attentive. One hand gathers, the other steadies. She is caught mid-action, not posed. This is a figure practicing herbal knowledge.

Right hand on spade handle

And because of that, she alters the space around her. Standing there to regard the statue the garden becomes a workplace—a field of quiet labor. Each plant is no longer merely labeled but noticed. The dried hydrangea beside her, the winter stems, the low green groundcover—everything begins to feel like it belongs to her attention.

Left hand grasping plants, pockets full

We began to notice the small offerings at her feet—stones, a tiny object left by a passerby—that suggest that others have felt this shift. Not worship, exactly, but recognition. A kind of informal acknowledgment that this figure gathers more than herbs; she gathers meaning from the overlooked.

There is something deliberate in her scale. She is not monumental. She does not dominate the garden. Instead, she invites you downward—to stoop, to look, to consider what is beneath your habitual line of sight.

This is consistent the sculptor, Elfriede Abbe’s, larger artistic life. She was not drawn to grand gestures but to process: carving wood, printing pages, observing the minute structures of plants. In “Yarb Woman”, that ethic becomes embodied. The sculpture is less about a person than about a way of being in the world.

To gather. To attend.To work with care.

Standing there, you may feel the subtle inversion: the garden becomes something you enter into, as she has. The distance between observer and participant narrows.

And time shifts slightly. The date on the plaque—1980—anchors the piece historically, but the figure herself resists that anchoring. Herbal practice stretches backward through centuries of unnamed practitioners, most of them women, most of them unrecorded. She could belong to any of them. Or to all.

Yarb Woman, Elfriede Abbe, sculptor, The Auraca AHerbarists, May 6, 1980. Robison New York State Herb Garden, Cornell Botanical Gardens, Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State.

Even the word “yarb” participates in this temporal layering—an old word surviving in a modern garden, just as old knowledge survives in new forms.

Yarb Woman, Elfriede Abbe, sculptor, The Auraca AHerbarists, May 6, 1980. Robison New York State Herb Garden, Cornell Botanical Gardens, Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State.

What we encountered, then, was not simply a sculpture. It was a quiet proposition:

That knowledge can be gathered slowly.
That attention is a form of reverence.
And that in the midst of a university—of speed, abstraction, and analysis—there remains a place where understanding begins with kneeling close to the ground.

And noticing what grows there.

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Copyright 2026 All Rights Reserved Michael Stephen Wills

The Science and Poetry of Melting Ice: Cayuga Lake During a Winter Thaw

Under a blue February sky, Cayuga Lake keeps its icy grip, revealing how light, time, and physics conspire to make winter’s farewell a slow, luminous negotiation.

MichaelStephenWills8 Comments

These photographs, made along the frozen margin of Cayuga Lake at Cass Park in mid-February 2026, carry a quiet paradox. The sky is a lucid blue, the light has that late-winter clarity that hints at spring, and yet the lake remains locked under a pale, glassy skin. A few geese stitch the air. A bench waits. Red and white beacons stand where water should be moving. The moment is fixed: late afternoon light in February, Finger Lakes winter—but the deeper story is written in physics, not pixels: why does lake ice linger so stubbornly during a thaw?

The short answer is that water is a hoarder of heat and ice is a keeper of promises. The long answer is the reason these scenes feel suspended between seasons.

Start with the cost of melting itself. Ice does not simply warm into water; it must first be converted, and that conversion demands a large, fixed payment of energy known as the latent heat of fusion. To melt just one kilogram of ice takes about 334,000 joules—and that energy raises the temperature not at all. It is spent entirely on changing solid to liquid.

Scale that up to a lake surface and the numbers become sobering. Even a modest sheet of ice—say ten centimeters thick—contains roughly ninety kilograms of ice per square meter. Melting that much requires on the order of thirty million joules per square meter. To put this in a human context, in 1 kcal there are 4,184 joules. Melting a square meter of ice requres 7,170 kilocalories (kcals) or 3.6 days for a person expending 2,000 kcals per day. Spread across square kilometers of lake, the energy bill climbs into the tens of terajoules. That is the hidden arithmetic behind the familiar disappointment of a February thaw: a few warm days feel dramatic to us, but to a lake they are only a small down payment.

This leads to the second, more subtle constraint: melting ice keeps itself cold. As long as ice is present, the surface of the lake is pinned near 0 °C (32 °F). Incoming heat does not make the surface warmer; it simply converts more ice into water at the same temperature. The thin layer of meltwater that forms on top is also near freezing, so the entire interface remains locked at winter’s threshold. There is no “warming momentum” here—no quick rise in temperature to accelerate the process. The system quietly consumes energy without changing its outward thermal expression.

That is why the lake in these images can look bright and almost springlike while remaining physically winterbound. Sunlight is being spent on erasure, not on warming.

A third rule of water deepens the delay. Freshwater is densest not at freezing, but at about 4 °C (39 °F). In early spring conditions, the coldest water—near 0 °C—floats. The slightly warmer, denser water below tends to stay below. This creates a stable stratification: a cold, near-freezing surface layer sitting like a lid on the lake.

The consequence is crucial. The lake cannot easily mix warmer subsurface water upward to attack the ice from below. The thaw must work mainly from the top and the edges—where sunlight, mild air, rain, and shoreline heat can do their work—rather than through a coordinated, whole-lake turnover. In practical terms, the ice is dismantled by margins and seams, not by a sudden, uniform collapse.

Add to this the reflective nature of ice and snow. The pale surface in these photographs is not merely beautiful; it is also defensive. Bright ice and snow reflect a significant fraction of incoming sunlight back into the sky. Dark, open water would absorb that energy eagerly and warm quickly. As long as the lake remains light-toned, it is actively rejecting some of the very energy that could hasten its release.

Thickness and structure matter too. Winter does not lay down a single, simple sheet. It builds layers: clear black ice, milky refrozen crusts, snow-ice composites, trapped bubbles—each a page in winter’s ledger. A brief thaw may soften the surface, open a lead near shore, or trace fine cracks across the sheet, but the bulk remains. In the closer views—the lighthouse and the red beacon standing in frozen sheen—you can see subtle tonal shifts and faint stress lines, the calligraphy of slow change. These are signs of negotiation, not surrender.

Scale, finally, is destiny. Cayuga is long and deep; it behaves more like a small inland sea than a pond. Small waters can change their minds quickly. Large waters are conservative. They remember. The heat they lost in autumn must be repaid, carefully and in full, before winter loosens its hold. This is why harbors and shallows darken first, why the margins in these scenes show hints of movement while the center keeps its pale composure.

Put together, these rules explain the peculiar patience of February ice. The thaw is not a switch but an accounting. Enormous quantities of energy must be delivered just to accomplish the phase change. While that work is underway, the surface temperature barely moves. The cold meltwater stays on top, limiting mixing. The bright surface reflects sunlight. The lake, in effect, resists haste through the ordinary, unromantic laws of physics.

There is an austere beauty in this. Ice is a temporary architecture built by the loss of heat, and its demolition requires an equally disciplined repayment. The quiet in these images is the quiet of bookkeeping—joules being transferred, layers being undone, thresholds being approached but not yet crossed. When the change finally comes, it often feels sudden: a windy day that breaks the sheet into plates, a warm rain that darkens the surface, a week when the margins retreat visibly. But that drama is only the visible last act of a long, invisible exchange.

So the lake lingers. Not out of stubbornness, but out of fidelity to the rules that govern it. Under a sky that already looks like April, Cayuga is still paying winter’s invoice. The ice remains until the account is settled—and when it finally goes, the benches will no longer face a mirror of light, but a moving field of dark water, ready once again to begin the long work of storing heat for another year.

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Juvenile Cooper’s Hawk at a Winter Feeder: A Backyard Predator in the Finger Lakes

On a frigid winter morning, a young Cooper’s Hawk claimed a backyard feeder roof, revealing how predators, snow, and survival intersect in an ordinary Finger Lakes yard.

MichaelStephenWills16 Comments

These four images and YouTube video document a winter visit by a juvenile Cooper’s Hawk (Accipiter cooperii) to our backyard feeder, captured on February 7, 2026, during a snowstorm in mid-morning light in sub-zero temperatures. The metadata places the sequence between 10:35 and 10:37 a.m., recorded on an iPhone 14 Pro Max with a 9 mm f/2.8 lens at low ISO (32) and fast shutter speeds—conditions that make sense for a bright, snowy day when reflected light is abundant and a moving subject demands short exposures. The bird itself, however, tells a longer story than the camera settings can.

Cooper’s Hawks are medium-sized accipiters, built for pursuit in cluttered spaces. Short, rounded wings and a long, banded tail allow them to thread through trees and shrubs with startling agility. In the Finger Lakes region in winter, they increasingly overlap with human habitats because bird feeders concentrate prey. The metal feeder roof in these images is mounded with snow, and the hawk has chosen it as a temporary perch—an elevated, stable platform that offers both a view of potential prey and a place to rest after a chase or to wait out a flurry of weather.

The bird’s plumage marks it as a juvenile, likely hatched the previous summer. Instead of the blue-gray back and fine rufous barring of an adult, this hawk wears brown upperparts patterned with pale, teardrop-shaped spots and a buffy, vertically streaked breast. In the first image, where the bird faces forward through a lattice of branches, those bold brown streaks on a whitish background are especially clear. The eye is yellow rather than the deep red of a mature adult—another reliable sign of youth. Over the next year or two, those eyes will darken and the plumage will transition to the cleaner, more uniform adult pattern.

In this first image, the hawk faces forward, squarely watching the yard.

The long tail, visible in the rear views, shows broad, dark bands and a pale tip. That tail is not just decorative; it is the rudder that lets the hawk brake, pivot, and surge forward in tight quarters. The posture here—upright, alert, feathers slightly fluffed against the cold—suggests a bird conserving heat while remaining ready to launch. In winter, energy balance is critical. Each failed chase costs calories, and each successful one must pay back the effort many times over.

In this second image, the hawk looks over its shoulder, scanning.

Cooper’s Hawks specialize in birds roughly the size of starlings, doves, and jays, though they will also take small mammals. Feeders unintentionally simplify the hunt by bringing many potential targets to a predictable spot. The hawk’s presence does not mean the feeder is “bad” for the ecosystem; rather, it shows the food web functioning in real time. Predators follow prey, and prey follow resources. In snowy conditions, when natural seed and cover are harder to find, that concentration effect is even stronger.

Click me for my Cooper’s Hawk photograph on Getty Istock.

The sequence of images reads like a brief behavioral study. In the first, it faces forward, squarely watching the yard. In the second and fourth, the hawk looks over its shoulder, scanning. In the third, it turns again, keeping its head in near-constant motion—classic raptor vigilance. Accipiters often hunt by surprise, bursting from cover rather than soaring and stooping like falcons or buteos.

In this third image the hawk turns, keeping its head in near-constant motion—classic raptor vigilance.

Winter also shapes the hawk’s relationship with humans. Juveniles, in particular, are more willing to explore unfamiliar structures and take calculated risks. A feeder roof is not a natural perch, but it offers height, stability, and a clear line of sight. Over time, many individuals learn the rhythms of a yard—when sparrows or doves are most active, where cover is thickest, where escape routes lie. Some succeed and stay; others move on.

In this fourth image, the hawk looks over its shoulder, scanning.

From a broader natural history perspective, this bird represents a conservation success story. Cooper’s Hawks suffered declines in the mid-20th century due to pesticide use, but populations rebounded after bans on DDT and related chemicals. Today they are again common across much of North America, including upstate New York, occupying forests, edges, and increasingly suburban landscapes.

Watch Cooper’s Hawk behaviors in this video.

The file metadata anchors this encounter in a precise moment—February light, a cold morning, a quiet pause between hunts. The images, however, capture something timeless: a young predator learning its craft, reading the winter landscape, and testing the boundaries between wild and human-made spaces. For the backyard observer, it is a reminder that even in the most familiar settings, the ancient choreography of predator and prey continues, written in feathers, snow, and a long, banded tail poised for flight.

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Stones That Traveled: Glacial Erratics, Deep Time, and the Stories They Leave Behind

Glacial erratics are immigrant stones—carried south by ice, dropped without explanation, and left behind to challenge our sense of permanence, place, and deep time.

MichaelStephenWills22 Comments

There are rocks that merely sit where gravity has placed them, and then there are rocks that arrive with stories already embedded—foreign syllables carried south on ice, dropped without explanation, and left for us to puzzle over. Glacial erratics belong to the second category. They are migrants with no passports, refugees of deep time, whose presence quietly contradicts the landscape that hosts them.

Long before anyone reached for a hand lens or an ice-flow diagram, people answered such contradictions with imagination. In Ireland, a boulder perched just so on a mountain side is not a geologic problem but a resting place. Leprechauns, we are told, favor such stones—high enough to observe human intrusion, solid enough to outlast it. Skepticism, as folklore reminds us, is not always a stable position. Kevin Woods—better known as McCoillte—found that out the hard way when doubt collided with experience on the slopes of Slieve Foye. What followed was not merely a conversion story, but an act of modern mythmaking: folklore translated into bureaucracy, imagination petitioning regulation, and “The Last Leprechauns” entering the unlikely language of conservation. Stone, story, and belief hardened together into something oddly durable.

Rocks such as this are a favorite perch for leprechauns to rest and contemplate the works of man who have invaded their world. Inhabitants of Carlingford who wander Slieve Foye have come upon them often enough, their stories and certitude in the existence of the Little People are resistant to manifold doubters with their reasons and arguments. Kevin Woods, aka McCoillte, was a doubter until worked on a stone wall on property he owned on Ghan Road, Carlingford. His belief did not arise on the discovery of the leather purse, covered with ages of dust and lime, nor with the gold coins inside. McCoillte pocketed the coins for luck. As luck would have it, McCoillte loved to walk on Slieve Foye. It was on one such walk he and his dog encountered Little People who paralyzed them to escape. His unexplained absence led to troubles with the wife. This experience brought McCoillte around to enough of a belief that he, with lots of help, succeeded in petitioning the E.U. European Habitats directive to recognize leprechauns a protected species. A reserve was establish on Slieve Foye to protect the “Last Leprechauns” and you can google this phrase to learn more about McCoillte’s stories.

Back in the Finger Lakes, we tend to use a different grammar when confronted by an out-of-place rock. We name it, classify it, and trace its lineage northward. Erratics scattered across Tompkins County are geological sentences that begin somewhere else entirely. The bedrock beneath Ithaca—Devonian shale and sandstone—cannot account for crystalline intruders left behind like forgotten punctuation marks. These stones speak of ice sheets thick enough to erase valleys and decisive enough to transport mountains in fragments.

Some of those fragments have been domesticated. Cornell, for example, has never been shy about rearranging its stones. An unremarked erratic along the Allen Trail may once have been shrugged off as inconvenient rubble, while another—dragged from the Sixmile Creek valley—was carved into a seat and made eloquent. The Tarr memorial boulder, resting near McGraw Hall, transforms erratic stone into deliberate monument. It invites rest, contemplation, and perhaps gratitude for those who taught us how to read landscapes written by glaciers.

We find boulders of crystalline rock, commonly derived from Adirondack sources, left behind on the surface of ablation moraine, in the Finger Lakes Region. Cornell finds some and move them, maybe the case for this unremarked erratic found along the Allen Trail of FR Newman Arboretum. Another enormous erratic, brought in from the Sixmile Creek valley, was carved into a seat as a memorial to Professor R.S. Tarr who deciphered much of the glacial history of the Finger Lakes Region. Find it at the southwest corner of McCraw Hall on the Cornell University Campus. Reference: “The Finger Lakes Region: Its Origin and Nature,” O.D. von Engeln, Cornell University Press, 1961 page 106

Glacial Erratic, Fillmore Glen

Elsewhere, erratics remain defiantly themselves. In winter, one along Fall Creek alternates between anonymity and revelation, depending on whether snow smooths its surface or retreats to expose lichen constellations. Bridges pass overhead, traffic flows, semesters turn over, yet the rock remains unimpressed. It has already endured pressure sufficient to rearrange its crystals; a passing academic calendar is not likely to trouble it.

Glacial erratic with and without a snow covver and spotted by lichen along Fall Creek in a winter afternoon as seen from Cornell Botanic Gardens. That is the bridge over Fall Creek on Forest Home Drive. Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

Closeup of the same boulder

This boulder, a glacial erratic, was found near Fall Creek and the Cornell Botanic Gardens Horticulture Building. Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

This rock, a glacial erratic, was found near Fall Creek and the Cornell Botanic Gardens Horticulture Building. Cornell University, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

Then there are the stones that confront us most directly—those we stumble upon in fields, pulled from soil by plow or frost, demanding explanation. A white, iron-stained marble boulder in a Tompkins County field is not subtle about its foreignness. It does not belong to the local vocabulary of shale and sandstone. Its pale surface, crystalline texture, and mineral scars point insistently north, toward the Grenville terrane of the Adirondack Lowlands. The Balmat–Edwards–Gouverneur marble belt offers the most persuasive origin story: metamorphosed carbonate rock carried south by Laurentide ice, released when climate and physics finally lost patience with one another.

I found this white marble erratic in a Tompkins County field. The highest-probability source is Grenville marble from the NW Adirondack Lowlands / St. Lawrence County (Gouverneur/Balmat–Edwards marble belt), delivered by southward-flowing Laurentide ice. I say the most probable source is metamorphosed carbonate (marble) from the Grenville terrane to the north—especially the northwest Adirondack Lowlands / St. Lawrence County marble belt (the “Gouverneur Marble” and related Grenville marbles), transported south by the last Laurentide ice sheet. Why that’s the best bet: Ice-flow geometry favors a northern source. In the Finger Lakes, glacial ice advanced with a flow direction that was very close to due south, guided by the north–south bedrock valleys. Tompkins County erratics are “exotic” imports. Local bedrock around Ithaca/Tompkins is Devonian shale/sandstone, but the region contains many nonlocal (“exotic”) glacial erratics carried in from much farther north (including southern Canada and beyond). Marble isn’t local to the Ithaca area, but it is abundant in the NW Adirondack Lowlands. The Balmat–Edwards/Gouverneur area in St. Lawrence County is a classic Grenville Lowlands district with marble belts (the same province that yields cream/white building marble around Gouverneur).

What makes this particular erratic compelling is not just its provenance, but the improbability of its journey. Ice moved with purpose here, flowing south along bedrock valleys like Fall Creek and Cayuga troughs, turning the Finger Lakes region into a conveyor belt for distant geology. When the ice melted, it left behind evidence that refuses to blend in. Erratics are geological truth-tellers. They announce that this place was once unrecognizable, that what seems permanent is merely provisional.

Perhaps that is why folklore clings so naturally to stone. Whether leprechauns or Laurentide ice are credited, erratics insist on a larger frame of reference. They ask us to imagine landscapes in motion and beliefs under revision. A boulder can be a seat, a marker, a perch, or a puzzle—but never merely background. It waits, quietly confident, for us to catch up to its story.

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Lucifer Falls in Winter: Traversing Ice Chutes Along Ithaca’s South Rim Trail

A careful winter walk along the South Rim reveals Lucifer Falls transformed—ice chutes, frozen veils, and flowing water beneath stone, inviting patience, attention, and quiet awe.

MichaelStephenWills15 Comments

January pares the gorge to essentials. Color withdraws, sound sharpens, and the land reveals its underlying grammar—stone, water, cold, and time. Reaching Lucifer Falls by the South Rim Trail on a winter morning feels less like an initiation, a careful passage through ice-chutes and shadowed ledges where the creek rehearses its ancient work in a new key.

Wintertime scene along the South Rim Trail of Robert H. Treman State park. The trail is solid ice. Ithaca, Tompkins County New York State

The trail begins quietly, a soft crunch underfoot where snow thins to leaf litter. Hemlocks hold their breath. The gorge opens in increments, not all at once, and the creek’s voice arrives in fragments—first a whisper, then a steady insistence. Winter edits the landscape with a clean hand. The clutter of summer understory is gone; what remains is structure: stratified shale stacked like a book left open to a single, patient chapter. Every footfall demands attention. Ice slicks the stone where seeps cross the path, and the trail teaches a winter gait—short steps, weight centered, the quiet confidence of traction earned rather than assumed.

As the rim narrows, the air cools perceptibly. The gorge walls rise higher, their layered faces stippled with frost and snow. Icicles form a punctuation along ledges, commas and exclamation points caught mid-sentence. In places, the trail descends into ice chutes—steep, polished corridors where meltwater has glazed the rock. Here, the body listens more closely. Boots test, then commit. Hands brush the cold bark of a leaning tree, a borrowed handrail. There is pleasure in this concentration, the way winter insists on presence. You cannot hurry. You cannot drift.

Below, the creek widens into a quiet pool, its surface a muted mirror. Thin plates of ice drift and collide, sounding a faint porcelain clink. The sound carries upward, amplified by the gorge’s acoustics, a delicate counterpoint to the deeper hush of falling water. The trail curves, and suddenly the falls announce themselves—not in full view, but as a white presence beyond the bend, a brightness lodged between walls of stone.

The trails this day were solid ice. I arrived via the South Rim Trail, the only way to access this site. Robert H. Treman State Park, Ithaca, Tompkins County, New York State

Approaching from the South Rim offers a measured reveal. First the upper cascades appear, water fanning across rock that has become a winter canvas. Ice has claimed the margins, building ribs and curtains that thicken day by day. The falls do not stop in January; they change. Water threads through ice, slips behind it, emerges again in translucent veils. Gravity persists, but its expression is altered—slower, more deliberate, sculptural.

At the base, Lucifer Falls stands transformed. The familiar plunge has become a tiered architecture of frozen flow, a stepped amphitheater where icicles hang like organ pipes and snow pillows settle into hollows. The water still moves, a silver ribbon finding its way down the left flank, while the right side has grown into a cathedral of ice. The gorge walls close in, amplifying the sound—a low, resonant murmur that feels as much felt as heard.

The cold sharpens every sense. Breath fogs, then clears. Fingers tingle through gloves as the camera comes out, metal biting through insulation. Framing becomes an act of translation: how to honor motion when much of it has paused; how to suggest the hidden currents beneath the frozen skin. A short video will later catch what stillness cannot—the soft shiver of water behind ice, the way the falls breathe even in winter—but for now, the eye lingers on texture and line. Shale layers echo the ice’s striations. Time repeats itself in different materials.

Standing there, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of deep history. These rocks remember glaciers and warmer seas; this creek has been at work since before memory had a word. January merely adds a chapter. Snow feathers the ledges. A stray sunbeam slips into the gorge, briefly igniting the ice, and then is gone. The falls return to their monochrome palette, as dignified as an old photograph.

The return along the rim is lighter, the path now familiar, confidence earned. The ice chutes yield more easily on the way back, as if acknowledging the careful passage. Above the gorge, the forest resumes its quiet, and the trail leads out into the open day. What lingers is the sense of having witnessed something intimate and exacting—a winter conversation between stone and water, conducted without haste, inviting those willing to slow down and listen.

January asks little and gives much. Reaching Lucifer Falls by the South Rim is a reminder that beauty is not diminished by cold; it is clarified.

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Atkinson Hall and the Quiet Confidence of Good Design

A new Cornell building settles into its hillside, glass and weathered metal catching sky and trees—less a declaration than an invitation to pause, wander, and think together.

MichaelStephenWills10 Comments

Learning the Shape of a New Building

I first noticed the building from above.

Not in person—on my screen, late at night, when I should have been revising a draft and instead opened Google Earth the way some people open a window. There it was, just off Tower Road, close to Stocking Hall, pale and newly settled into the slope. From that height it looked careful rather than confident, as if it had arrived recently and was still deciding how much of itself to show.

Atkinson Hall, Google Earth from August 2023, 350 Tower Rd, Ithaca, NY 14850

I remember thinking: good placement on a former triangular parking lot. Enough distance from the older buildings to breathe, close enough to feel included. The hill does most of the work. You can see that even from an overhead height.

The next morning I walked there.

Atkinson Hall as viewed from the open field south of the Nevin Welcome Center of Cornell Botanic Gardens

Across the open field the building didn’t announce itself. Trees intervened—pines, bare hardwoods—so that it came into view in pieces: a curve of metal, a long line of glass, brick holding the ground. It felt less like approaching a destination than like gradually realizing you were already there. I liked that. Buildings that reveal themselves all at once tend to exhaust me.

The slope matters. You feel it in your legs as you walk, and the building seems to acknowledge it, stretching rather than standing tall. It does not pretend the land is flat. It follows the descent toward the creek, toward the older geological story underneath all of us.

Up close, the materials settle my attention.

North Side of Atkinson Hall, 350 Tower Rd, Ithaca, NY 14850

Brick at the base—solid, Cornell-familiar, not trying to reinvent anything. Above it, bands of weathered metal curve gently, already carrying the muted browns of fallen leaves, old stone, and stream-worn shale—colors long familiar to the slopes and ravines that shape this campus. They look as though they have agreed to age, which feels like an underrated design choice. The glass holds the sky without insisting on transparency. Some days it reflects trees so clearly that the building nearly disappears into them.

Compare the facade brickwork of Warren Hall, one of the earliest buildings on the Cornell University campus, completed 1868. This is the southwest corner with facade signage, Cornell University, Ithaca, New York

I stop near the windows longer than I intend to. The view steadies me. The hillside, the trees, the quiet persistence of winter light. My notebook stays closed for a few minutes. No one seems to mind.

View near Atkinson, Nevin Welcome Center, Cornell Botanical Gardens, 124 Comstock Knoll Dr, Ithaca, NY 14850

Inside, the building does not behave like a department.

That is the first thing I notice once I begin using it regularly. No single discipline claims the space. Offices and meeting rooms feel provisional, lightly held. Conversations drift. Someone from engineering crosses paths with someone from policy. A food systems researcher borrows a chair from a planner. No one looks lost.

It helps to remember who gathers here. The building hosts people from many parts of the university, each arriving with partial expertise, incomplete questions.

Cornell College / UnitAreas of Engagement
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences (CALS)Food systems, agroecology, climate resilience
College of EngineeringEnergy systems, materials, infrastructure
College of Arts and SciencesEarth systems, ecology, human dimensions
SC Johnson College of BusinessSustainable enterprise, supply chains
College of Architecture, Art, and Planning (AAP)Urban resilience, adaptive design
Cornell Law SchoolEnvironmental law and governance
Public & Global AffairsClimate policy, diplomacy

I keep this list taped inside my notebook. It reminds me that no one here is meant to arrive fully formed. The building expects us to be unfinished.

Cobblestones with fallen oak leaves along Feeny Way, Cornell University, Ithaca, New York

There is a quiet confidence in how the place is run. Systems hum discreetly. Heat holds steady even when the weather rips. Somewhere nearby, unseen, a generator waits, a reassurance. Work continues. Conversations do not end mid-sentence. I think about this more than I expected to. Stability has become a form of generosity.

On certain afternoons I walk the exterior again before heading home.

The curves soften what could have been institutional. Corners ease into one another. Nothing feels sharp. The building does not posture or instruct. It listens. It seems content to let weather, foot traffic, and time finish the job.

I have overheard visitors describe it as “restrained.” I think that is right. It does not wear sustainability as an emblem. It does not ask to be admired. It offers something quieter: space to think without being hurried, to talk without being territorial.

From some angles it nearly disappears into the hillside. From others it asserts itself just enough to be useful. That balance feels intentional, and also rare.

When I sit near the glass and look out, I sometimes imagine the building learning us in return—our habits, our pauses, the way we linger in doorways when a conversation matters. It seems designed for that kind of noticing.

If I were forced to describe it the way a realtor might, I would say it is well built in all the ways that matter. The structure is sound. The site is excellent. The materials will age well. But what I would mean is something less technical.

It is a building willing to wait.

Seen from above, it is still new.
Seen from the field, it is already settled.
Seen from inside, it feels patient.

That patience makes room—for uncertainty, for collaboration, for the long work that does not resolve quickly. I think that is why I keep returning, even on days when I do not strictly need to be there.

The building does not ask what I am producing.
It asks only that I stay awhile.

And for now, that is enough.

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Cornell Botanic Gardens’ Monkey Run: History, Geology, and Scenic Fall Creek

A contemplative walk along Monkey Run where Fall Creek writes the valley’s history—sycamores, bridges, and Devonian stone speaking across seasons in Cornell’s living classroom.

MichaelStephenWills17 Comments

On a morning in late March, when the hills about Ithaca still hold the night’s frost in their shaded folds, I took the path called Monkey Run and went to see how Fall Creek spends its winter earnings. The air had the bright sting of thaw, a kind of vernal austerity that keeps a man honest in his steps. Along the high bank the sun spilled its coin onto the water, where it broke and flickered like a school of silver minnows. A rim of snow clung to the shale ledges, and the leaves of last year’s oaks—curled, fox-red, and faithful—whispered as if to keep the woods awake until spring fully claimed them.

Sunlit bend of Fall Creek viewed from a high bank at Monkey Run in early spring.

Monkey Run is one of the outlying parcels tended by Cornell Botanic Gardens—once called the Plantations, and now, more fittingly, named for the living charge it keeps. These gardens do not end at beds and borders; they encompass the wilder rooms of the county, more than a thousand hectares of glens, pastures, and ravines where the university’s first and oldest teacher—nature herself—still holds class. Fall Creek is one of her principal lecturers. Rising beyond the high country of Cayuga Heights and slipping under stone and snow, it shoulders its way across the campus, idles a while in Beebe Lake, and turns turbines of memory at Triphammer Falls before shouldering on toward the lake that receives nearly everything here—Cayuga—long, deep, and glacial in its thinking.

Tall white-barked sycamores leafless against a blue March sky at Monkey Run.

If you would learn a valley’s mind, walk a meander. The creek here composes with easy cursive, laying down a bar of gravel, nibbling at a bank of clay, then sweeping back to consider its work from the opposite shore. The geologist says the rock is Devonian, pages laid flat and damp with time, and the ice of ten thousand winters ago scoured them into the open. A creek is a patient mason, working without rest and never in anger. I admired these sycamores—their clean bones shining through the leafless canopy like the ribs of an old cathedral. Winter reveals their whiteness; summer grants them shade. A stand of white pines keeps a dark counsel in the background; on the muddy edge, green tongues of skunk cabbage push up, pledges made by the swamp to keep faith with the sun.

Rust-stained steel pier above calm water on Fall Creek along Monkey Run trail

I came down to the water near an old steel pier, a bridge remnant, hanging on each end without purpose. It wears graffiti the way a boulder wears lichen; human wishes, briefly rooted, coloring what they can. The river accepts it all, the pilings and the scribbles, the cast limb and the bottle’s glint, and continues its one unarguable gesture downstream. That is the old instruction of Fall Creek: use, refuse, endure. Before the university drew students from every quarter, the creek turned wheels and powered the small ambitions of a frontier town. Even the name Triphammer speaks of iron struck to purpose. Now the water powers something quieter: the studies of herons, the almanacs of kingfishers, the quick arithmetic of minnows over limestone.

Looking back while climbing the steep bluff

Steps cut from logs ascend the bluff, each tread pegged with iron, each rise a short confession of breath. I climbed to the ridge, paused halfway, and through the gray lace of March branches saw the creek shining at a bend far below. A man cannot help but measure his own life against such a course. The path goes up and down in obedient red blazes, but the water keeps its own counsel. Where the bank slumps the river shoulders through; where the bottom rises it lays down a mirror. In my youth I wanted the straight run, the short work. Now the curve pleases me. To go with the current and not be carried away—that is a lesson suitable to the grey in my beard.

Clear, shallow run of Fall Creek with shale bottom and pine stand in distance
Bluff overlooking Fall Creek in summer

When I returned five months later, on August 23, the same path had forgotten the word austerity. The cathedral of sycamore was fully leafed, the white pillars now vanished behind a nave of shade. The pines perfumed the air without trying. A new footbridge—clean timber arching like a bent bow—spanned one of the wet flats. Its braces, black-bolted and handsome, looked as if they would hold the weight of an ox team or a file of schoolchildren. Such crossings are a kind of promise from the present to the future: we found a way through here; may you, too. Below, the floor was upholstered with moss, oak leaves, and a scatter of pinecones—the slow currency of the woods accumulating interest.

Arched wooden footbridge in summer forest on Cornell’s Monkey Run trail.

Summer makes a confidant of every plant. Ferns unrolled their scripture at the bridge abutment; jewelweed held its tiny lanterns along the seeps; a kingfisher rattled downstream, blue lightning with a bill. The creek, glassy over its shale pavement, showed every wrinkle of its stride. I waded a little, feeling with the sole what the eye could not—where the current took an extra thought around a stone, where it forgot itself in a warm eddy. Trout lingered in the dimmer reaches, quick as commas; a great blue heron lifted off with that surprising tidiness of wing, ungainly only in our imagination.

In all seasons the trail carries two histories: one written in rock and water, the other in the footfall of people. Cornell’s founders, Ezra and Andrew White, believed the university should place the hand near the thing studied; here that principle is plain. Botany students take their lectures in leaf and bark; geologists read the creek banks as if the pages might soon turn by themselves; children learn the oldest calculus—how long a stick will float before it catches in the weeds. The caretakers from the Botanic Gardens mark, mend, and interpret, but they do not overtalk. The woods speak enough.

Moss, grass and pinecones on an overlook of Fall Creek

As the afternoon eased toward evening, I climbed once more to the bluff. The light had gone honey-colored and the leaves of the maples, those careful accountants of September, were just beginning to weigh their green against gold. I looked down on the bend where I’d stood in March—cold, bright, expectant—and felt the year’s circle gently close. As John Burroughs wrote, “The power to see straight is the rarest of gifts… to be able to detach yourself and see the thing as it actually is, uncolored or unmodified by your own… prepossessions… that is to be an observer and to read the book of nature aright.” Monkey Run obliges that humility. The creek moves as it always has—glacially taught, mill-forged, campus-wise, and freedom-loving—and the trail, with its modest stairs and honest bridges, invites us to walk beside it, to match our breath to its turnings, and to leave, if we can, a lighter trace than we found.

References

Ways of Nature (1905), “Reading the Book of Nature,” pp. 275–276 (The Writings of John Burroughs, Riverside ed., vol. XIV, Houghton Mifflin)

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Glacial Echoes: Dryden Lake Park’s Mirror-Calm Morning in Upstate New York

Morning clouds hang over Dryden Lake as hills kindle first color; reflections hold breath while a lone walker reads the valley’s glacial and human-written past.

MichaelStephenWills11 Comments

He came to the water before the people woke, the road a still ribbon of cold tar snaking beneath the low hills. Mattocks of cloud hung over the valley and the lake took in the sky like a mirror dropped yet not broken. The trees were beginning to color. A patient fire working from within the leaves. He parked where the grass ran down to the shore and stood a long while without moving. Birds made small sounds in the reeds. Somewhere a single truck labored up the grade and was gone. The surface held the hills with a steadiness the hills themselves could not keep. He thought how the quiet of a place can be the loudest thing it owns.

He went along the margin along the damp sedges where old drift lay silvered and light as bones. A drowned trunk angled from the shallows. The lake was old in the way of things made by ice and time. A kettle in the outwash of the last glacier, some men said, a bowl left when the buried ice eased away. He pictured the ice receding into the valley heads, the meltwaters choked with gravel, a hand larger than memory scribing the floor of this country. The earth never told it plain but the lay of it was witness enough. Across later centuries men cribbed a dam across the outlet and drew the water to a shape that pleased them and served their work.

A trail ran the length of the water on the old rail bed. The ties were long gone and the iron and cinders buried under years of leaf fall and gravel. He had walked it as a boy beside his father and now he walked it alone. Benches stood at half-mile intervals like waystations in a country of small pilgrimages. The signs told what once was here and what remains. They had renamed the path for a townman who argued it into being after the railroad had passed from the world and the right-of-way grew up with sumac and rumor. It was an easy trail and he carried nothing. His hands hung at his sides as if the day might place something in them when it was ready.

In another era the lake was a workshop. Men whipsawed timber in the wet air and fed small mills with the grove’s dark boards. Winter flowed over the flats, and they built icehouses and set the blocks within like blue stone, an industry that died when cold could be called from a switch. The hills have learned to forget the noise of it, though on certain mornings the fog takes a shape and you could believe rising from the ponded sawdust and the lading of sleds. He thought of the labor of those gone hands and of how work is a scripture every place keeps in its own tongue.

Before any of that, the ground here was a summer camp. People came with the season and went with it, laying their fires in the lee of the knoll and taking fish where the cattails thin. He could feel them in the open places, not as ghosts but as the first understanding the land ever had of itself. The words used for them now are museum words, yet the wind still crosses the water as it did and empties the same smell of iron and leaf into the lungs of whoever stands to breathe.

The town took its name from a poet long dead, a scholar’s choosing in the years after the war for independence when this tract of country was parceled out to soldiers of that same war. Virgil lay to the east as if they were shelving Latin across a map. The creek that bears that name threads the villages and finds Fall Creek at Freeville, and the combined waters go their own slow way toward Cayuga where the glacial hand scooped deeper yet. He said these names under his breath and they tasted of chalk and river stone.

A kingfisher rattled across the cove. The fish rose in rings that spread and vanished like time seen from above. Out on the water an old man pushed a skiff with an electric motor that hummed like a trapped bee, for the lake allows no gas engines now. The wildlife area ran around the shore in a ragged collar of field and wetland and alder, near two hundred acres under the state’s keeping, and the lake itself a little over a hundred. He watched the man aim for the lily line and thought how rules arise from the wish that a thing endure, though nothing does. Still we make the rules and we keep them as if the earth were listening.

Wind came down the slope with a smell of rain. He turned back and the hills lay again in the water, entire, and for a moment he could not tell which world had claim to the other. He thought of the rails pulled up and the mills gone to weeds and of the icehouses fallen into their own shadows and he thought of the people before all that and of the long winter pressing its thumb into the land and lifting it away. He thought of his father walking the rail bed beside him a lifetime ago and saying nothing. There are places where the past crowds close and will not be argued with. He stood until the first drops dimpled the surface and the reflection shattered and reformed. A train no longer runs here. The only sound was the soft percussion of rain on water and the slow turning of the earth beneath both. He put his hand to the damp trunk of a fallen tree and felt the grain and the coolness and the old patient labor of rot. Then he went up from the reeds, his pockets full of acorns, and out to the road where his truck waited and the day, austere and sufficient, came along with him.

References

Geological History and Glacial Formation of the Finger Lakes

Jim Schug Trail

The Dryden Lake area in the 19th century

Indian Campsite on west side of Dryden Lake

Dryden New York (wikipedia)

Dryden Lake (New York State DEC)

Geohydrology, Water Quality, and Simulation of Groundwater Flow in the Stratified-Drift Aquifer System in Virgil Creek and Dryden Lake Valleys, Town of Dryden, Tompkins County, New York

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The Mathematical Beauty of Autumn Leaves

Here I reflect on the mathematical beauty of falling leaves from two trees, revealing order amidst perceived chaos in nature’s patterns.

MichaelStephenWills17 Comments

Standing before these two trees on a unseasonably warm autumn day, I am struck by the intricate patterns of their fallen leaves. Against the vibrant green of the grass, the golden leaves form halos around the trunks, as if nature herself were sketching mandalas. There’s something profoundly mathematical about these arrangements—a quiet order amidst what might initially seem like chaos.

The first tree, its barren branches reaching skyward, stands on a carpet of yellow that radiates outward in near-perfect symmetry. The leaves have fallen in such a way that their density decreases as the distance from the trunk increases. It reminds me of the inverse square law—a principle in physics that governs how light, gravity, and sound diminish with distance. Here, instead of energy dispersing, it’s the leaves thinning out, their graceful scatter dictated by the wind’s whims and gravity’s pull. There’s an undeniable harmony in this seemingly random process, a convergence of natural forces creating an elegant gradient.

Stewart Park, Ithaca, New York

The second tree presents a different story, yet one equally mesmerizing. Its leaves, still clinging in part to the branches, form a looser ring at the base. The distribution is uneven, hinting at prevailing winds or the sheltering influence of nearby buildings. But even in this asymmetry, I see fractals—the self-similar patterns that repeat at different scales throughout nature. Look closely, and you’ll notice clusters of leaves mimicking the broader structure of the canopy above. It’s as if the tree’s essence is echoed in the ground below, a reminder of how deeply interconnected every part of a system can be.

Robinia pseudoacacia, commonly known as the black locust

These patterns invite reflection on the mathematical principles governing our world. Fibonacci sequences, golden ratios, and fractals—abstract concepts are not confined to textbooks. They are etched into the fabric of existence, visible in the spiral of a sunflower’s seeds, the curve of a nautilus shell, and the fall of leaves beneath a tree. Even the chaos of autumn is underpinned by order, a dance choreographed by countless variables: the angle of the branches, the strength of the wind, the moisture in the air.

I find myself wondering about the unseen forces at play. How many leaves fell straight down, obeying only gravity? How many were carried aloft by a breeze before settling farther afield? Could we model these patterns with algorithms, tracing the arc of each leaf’s descent? Would the data reveal a perfect equation, or would it remind us that some mysteries resist full comprehension?

As I stand here, I feel a deep gratitude for these natural equations. They ground me in the present moment while also connecting me to the infinite. The pattern of leaf fall is a reminder of life’s balance: chaos and order, randomness and structure, fleeting moments and timeless principles. The trees, now shedding their golden crowns, invite me to pause, observe, and marvel at the beautiful mathematics of autumn.

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