Travelog to Neverland

Welcome to The Hole – don’t bother looking for the light at the end of the tunnel. It’s probably just another train coming to run you down.

The first light of dawn hadn’t yet dared to creep through the dense overhang of the Queens sky as I rolled my Chevy into the kind of neighborhood where hope seemed to have packed up and skipped town – The Hole, New York’s forgotten stepchild. A scrap of no-man’s land straddling the invisible line between Queens and Brooklyn, it was the kind of place that cabbies avoided after the sun punched out for the day.

The Hole had a reputation that’d curl a mobster’s hair. It was a dank underbelly of the city, sitting thirty feet below the rest like a dirty secret. It was the city’s afterthought, a neighborhood swallowed by the infrastructure and indifference, where houses teetered on the brink of collapse, the law was just a rumor. Where even water has nowhere else to go.

My ’63 Bel Air came to a rest outside an all-night diner that looked like it served more trouble than coffee. The sign out front flickered a sickly hue of orange, a weary beacon to the lost souls seeking refuge from their own bad decisions. Inside, the air was a cocktail of grease, tobacco, and the tang of desperation. I slid into a booth that had seen better nights, my back to the wall, always facing the door. You learned to watch your own back in The Hole.

The waitress, a broad with more miles on her than my Chevy, slid over to me. “What’s it gonna be, mister?” she asked, her voice husky from too many cigarettes and not enough dreams.

“Coffee, black,” I replied, scanning the room for the face I was supposed to meet. He was a two-bit informant with a rap sheet longer than the Brooklyn Bridge. But he had a line on what was going down in The Hole, and I needed the inside scoop.

The Hole didn’t do gentle wakes; it was a sledgehammer of reality from the get-go. This was a corner of Queens that spat out the bones of the American Dream like it was chewing tobacco. The buildings, adorned with the scars of graffiti, stood like a row of rotten teeth, and the streets had potholes big enough to bury a body in. And bury they did; the marshy grounds were rumored to be a final resting place for those who crossed the wrong people, where wise guys played hide and seek with a .38.

I sipped my coffee, hot and bitter as the wind that whistled through the bullet holes of the stop sign outside. The streets were quiet, but that kind of quiet that screams trouble, like the breathless calm before a storm. The Hole didn’t do sunshine and rainbows. It did rain that fell like tears of the angels too drunk to care anymore, soaking through your coat and into your bones.

The door creaked open, and in walked my informant, Joey “The Snitch” Wakovski. He scanned the room with eyes that darted like roaches when the lights flick on. Spotting me, he shuffled over, each step a testament to a life misspent.

“You got something for me, Joey?” I asked without pleasantries. Time was a luxury in The Hole. It had a habit of running out, often along with your luck.

“Yeah, yeah,” he muttered, eyes fixed on the swirling black depths of my coffee. “There’s talk, see. The Kamorovs are moving in on the Guerreros’ turf. Gonna be a bloodbath.”

The Kamorovs and Guerreros were The Hole’s version of royalty, if royalty’s crowns were made of brass knuckles and their scepters were Tommy guns. A war between them would turn the streets into a butcher’s shop.

“Any idea when?” I pressed.

“Soon,” he hissed, glancing over his shoulder. “They’re loading up. Guns coming in from upstate. It’s gonna be big.”

The waitress sauntered over, eyeing Joey with suspicion before she asked, “You havin’ anything?”

He shook his head. “Nah, just the news.”

She shrugged and walked away, her interest in our conversation as dead as my third-grade goldfish. I dropped a few bills on the table. “Thanks, Joey. Keep your head down, huh?”

He snorted. “In The Hole, better to keep it up. That way, you see the reaper coming.”

I left him there, nursing the paranoia that kept him breathing, and stepped back into the streets. The sun had finally broken through, casting a light that seemed almost indecent against the grime. But it did little to warm the chill that had settled in my gut.

The Hole was about to explode, and blood was going to flow through these streets like a biblical flood. The Gavellis and the Morans would dance their deadly dance, and The Hole would swallow up the losers, no questions asked.

As I headed back to my car, the city was waking up, the sounds of life starting to bubble up from the cracks in the pavement. But The Hole remained asleep, dreaming its dark, twisted dreams. It was a place out of time, a relic, a ghostly echo of New York’s dirtiest secrets. And I was knee-deep in its muck, trying to stay afloat.

The first chapter of my day was coming to a close, and I knew the rest of the story was going to be written in blood and bullets.

Copyright 2023 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved http://www.MichaelStephenWills.com

George Washington Bridge to Schuylerville 2021

Happy Thanksgiving to all you Road Warriors

Throughout my life, beginning with trips between Long Island and Tucson, Arizona for college…throughout young and mature adulthood to return to the family home for celebrations…in my 40’s, 50’s and 60’s caring for aging parents and now, in retirement, researching genealogy I have travelled this route over the George Washington Bridge, over Manhattan, through the Bronx, then over the Throgs Neck Bridge to Queens County, Long Island and always as the driver. This is the first time being able to document the route with a quality camera. Driving here requires the total attention of the driver, the traffic, reading unfamiliar signs…..what a treat to sit and snap. Here goes.

On Interstate 80 then 95 moving through Bergen County and Fort Lee, New Jersey.

Over the George Washington Bridge, upper level.

Into the Bronx via the imfamous Cross Bronx Expressway…..trucks from across the continent funnel through here.

Glorious fall foliage on a perfect autumn morning.

Bronx Autumn 2021

I captured these during a trip through the Bronx, returning on a perfect fall afternoon from our outing to find Grandfather Wills’ resting place: Bronx River Parkway, Moushulu Parkway, Henry Hudson Parkway then over the George Washington Bridge to New Jersey. The trees were in their glory.

I had a session using a tripod for longer exposure shots and neglected to revise the camera settings for shooting on the run from an auto…so the photographs are not as sharp as they could be.

New Jersey from the Transcontinental Interstate Route 80 connecting New York City to San Francisco and all point in between.

Pinelands Connections X

Finding Grandfather’s Final Resting Place

When I was a young adult Mom told me Grandfather Wills was buried in the Bronx. James Edward Wills died when my father was very young and they were poor, living in tenements on the upper West Side of Manhattan April 1916.. Looking through Dad’s papers after both he and Mom were gone, I found the grave receipt: “Saint Raymond’s Cemetery, Westchester, New York.” James Wills, born April 1877, the youngest of six children of George Wills and Margaret McCambridge, who were 43 and 38, their place of residence two years later cited in the 1880 Federal Census as Shamong, New Jersey. Today, Shamong Township is part of New Jersey Pinelands National Reserve. Atsion, the Iron Furnace town where James’ Grandmother Ann McCambridge (nee Milley) worked as a cook, is in Shamong Township.

Finding and researching the grave receipt is what began my adventures in genealogy. What was, in 1916, Westchester is now the Schuylerville section of Bronx county, a borough of New York City. Saint Raymond’s Parish, still going strong, acquired more consecrated land for burials with now an “Old” and “New” cemetery separated by the confluence of interstates 95, 295, 678 including the approaches to the Whitestone and Throgs Neck Bridges, the superstructures of which are visible from the “Old” cemetery.

Having sorted out these details, I approach my cousin Mary at the October 2021 engagement party of my niece where we made arrangements to find Grandfather Wills’ final resting place the following month. On Wednesday, November 10th, Mary’s husband Peter drove us over the George Washington Bridge, through the incredible traffic of the Cross Bronx Expressway (a funny name for this moving parking lot, bumper to bumper trucks), to Schuylerville. We navigated to the “Google Maps” push pin I placed next to Section 7. Google Maps even has street views of the cemetery, in retrospect the view of Section 7, Ranges 35 – 51, includes grandfather’s grave.

We worked together, walking the rows, reading headstone inscriptions, on the expectation of finding Grandfather’s name without success. Peter and I took to counting the rows to find number 41, with success. With less success counting the headstones and spaces (unmarked graves) to find number 82. At the same time, Pam and Mary searched. I used the “Find A Grave” website to look up headstones in section 7, row 41 and found the only location provided was “Section 7.” I also called the cemetery office where they were most helpful. There is NO record of James Wills.

Then, Pam noticed some headstones inscribed with the exact location, Section, Range (Row) and Grave.  This was the key.  Here are the headstone references that pinpointed Grandfather Wills’ final, unmarked, resting place.  

In the following photograph I am on the right with wife Pam. Cousin Mary next to her husband Peter on the right, Mary is standing on grave 82.

James Edward Wills unmarked grave, Section 7, Range (Row) 41, Grave 82, Old Saint Raymond’s Cemetery, Balcom Avenue, Schuylerville, Bronx, New York. Wednesday, November 10, 2021. Here we are facing south / southeast into Section 7, James Wills’ unmarked grave is to the left and just behind Nevins headstone (Row 40, Grave 83).