Hiking Peter’s Mesa: Views from Peters Trail in the Superstition Wilderness

Climbing Peters Trail above Charlebois Canyon, I found sweeping desert views, traces of human history, and the stark volcanic beauty of Peter’s Mesa.

In March 2008, we followed the Dutchman Trail deep into Arizona’s Superstition Wilderness. At the junction near the springs draining Charlebois, Music and LaBarge canyons, we stopped for water before beginning the climb toward Peter’s Mesa.

After a respite among the cool spring waters, we headed up Peters Trail for the top of Peter’s Mesa where, for all we knew, there was no water.

The trail climbed hard from the canyon. As we gained elevation, a little more than 1,300 feet in a mile, the country behind us opened wider with every turn.

Black Mountain – a Million Dollar View

In my photograph “Black Mountain — Million Dollar View,” I am facing northwest, looking down toward Dutchman Trail. Black Mountain is the peak toward the upper left. The cleft of Charlebois Canyon lies below and to the right. Staghorn cholla grows in the foreground, with prickly pear scattered through the brush and young saguaros on the lower slopes. Looking carefully, I could still make out the pooled water where we had stopped.

What I saw as wilderness had been traveled and worked for generations. From above, it looked like country untouched by people. It was not.

Apache and Yavapai people traveled these mountains long before Europeans entered them, gathering plants and roasting agave in earth pits. Evidence of that use has been found on Peter’s Mesa. By the late nineteenth century, cattlemen were moving stock through the Superstitions, in part to supply mining settlements such as Silver King. Mexican woodcutters also worked these mountains, cutting mesquite and transporting wood by burro.

The origin of the name Peter’s Mesa is uncertain. Superstition Mountain historian Tom Kollenborn believed it may have come from an early cattleman or drover named Peter. The mesa also became associated in later years with the prospectors and treasure hunters drawn into the mountains by stories of the Lost Dutchman Mine.

Charlebois Canyon has its own history. Charlebois Spring was once known as Black Mountain Spring or Alamo Spring. Around the beginning of the twentieth century, Martin “Mart” Charlebois, a French-Canadian cattleman, lived there. He built a cabin and used spring water to irrigate a small garden. His cabin later burned.

Knowing this changes the way I look at the photograph. The canyon below appears empty, but a man once lived there, tending cattle and coaxing a garden from a desert spring.

Superstition Glory

Higher on Peters Trail I made the panorama I called “Superstition Glory.” Black Mountain stands to the right and Bluff Spring Mountain to the left, while LaBarge Canyon reaches away through the center toward the Red Hills. The photograph makes the terrain look almost orderly. Hiking through it was different. Each ridge concealed another wash or canyon, and distances were difficult to judge.

The geology accounts for those abrupt walls and broken mesas. Much of the Superstition Mountains consists of volcanic rock produced by major eruptions millions of years ago. Ash flows, lava and collapsing volcanic structures were later cut apart by erosion, leaving the cliffs, mesas and pinnacles that surround Peters Trail.

Water has done much of that work. On our hike it was scarce enough to govern our plans; over geological time it had carved the country beneath our feet.

World at Our Feet

Near the mesa top I stopped for another photograph, “World at our Feet.” A mature saguaro rises in the foreground above Charlebois Canyon. Beyond it are Black Mountain, Bluff Spring Mountain and Black Top Mesa, with Flatiron farther away. The tall cactus gives some measure of the distances beyond it.

By then we had climbed well above the springs.

I remember the view more clearly than the effort: saguaros standing on the slopes, volcanic cliffs catching the light, canyons dropping out of sight and one ridge following another toward the horizon. Somewhere below was the Dutchman Trail and the patch of water where we had rested.

From Peter’s Mesa, it seemed very far away.

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World at our Feet

On Peter’s Mesa

View North / Northwest from Peter’s Mesa. At our feet is a mature Saguaro Cactus towering over Charlebois Canyon, to the right Black Mountain. Bluff Spring Mountain, middle distance, then Black Top Mesa. Flatiron Peak, of the famed Superstition Mountain, is in distance. Photographed from Peter’s Trail on a March afternoon 2008. Superstition Wilderness, Tonto National Forest, Arizona

Bluff Spring Mountain, middle distance, then Black Top Mesa. Flatiron Peak, of the famed Superstition Mountain, is in distance. Photographed from Peter’s Trail on a March afternoon 2008. Superstition Wilderness, Tonto National Forest, Arizona

Click Me for the first post of this series, “Bluff Spring Mountain.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Morning / Evening

Can you see the Needle’s Eye?

The eye of Miner’s Needle is clear in both these South / Southeast views from Peter’s Mesa looking across the Music Canyon.

Many wildflowers, sprinkled like stars through the foreground of the morning photograph with Prickly Pear, Cholla and Saguaro cactus. Beware of “Jumping Cholla”, named for its seeming ability to attack passers-by. Another name, “Hanging Chain Cholla”, is more appropriate. Each chain with many hooked barbs is lightly attached to the branch, ready to snag a ride from unwary hikers.

Light rakes across the landscape in the evening photograph, taken from another vantage point on Peter’s Mesa. Miner’s Needle is four (4) miles away “as the crow flies,” i.e., line of sight distance.

Click Me for the first post of this series, “Black Mountain.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Panoramic

Superstition Glory

View North / Northwest from Peter’s Trail looking back the way we came. Black Mountain on right, Bluff Spring Mountain left with LaBarge Canyon running to the Red Hills center. On a March afternoon 2008.

Click Me for the first post of this series, “Black Mountain.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Hear the Music

Roasted Yucca

Here we are climbing Peters Trail to the eponymous mesa and facing East to Music Mountain. Scattered in the brush are desiccated and live Prickly Pear cactus. Poles of young saguaro cactus like randomly placed telephone poles poke up around the lower slopes.

The first published record of Music Mountain is by Ray C. Howland of Mesa Arizona who sent a letter to “Everybody’s Magazine” that appeared in a feature called “Everybody’s Meeting Place: Where writers, readers and the editor gather for informal discussion,” May 1928, Volume 58, Issue 5, page 173. I reproduce Howland’s letter here with minor editing:

“I am in the deserts and mountains of Arizona most of the time. I go into town once each month for mail and provisions. I meet many things as I ramble around, many strange things, things that are beyond my ability to comprehend. One particular was in my mind as I read your printed thought in the back of Everybody’s. Far in the Superstition Mountains of Arizona, in the deepest, most rugged canyon, there are three caves halfway up a great yellow bluff. In these caves are mud dwellings. There are not the cliff-dwelling as found in other parts of Arizona.

The mud walls of these dwellings were made by people with very small hands. The handprints of these ancient masons remain as though they were made yesterday. Just below these caves a beautiful pool of crystal-clear water lies between grassy banks. Tall ghostlike sycamores grow there in great numbers.
I have camped many times beneath those sycamores. It is a beautiful spot. Such a difference between there and the hot desert that lies fifteen miles to the south.! As one lies there, just at twilight, begins the most wonderful music one could imagine. I have never heard music that could compare to it, vague, elusive at times, then again of greater volume. It is my opinion that no living being could record it.

The music is, I believe, beyond description. It seems to take you out of your moral self and transport you back ages and ages, almost to the beginning of things. For the time being one feels as though he were in another world.
I have often tried to solve this little private mystery. I can’t explain it. I can’t even describe it intelligently.

You will probably say as you read this that is is the wind among the pinnacles, caves, trees, etc. that make this wonder phenomenon. It cannot be, for usually there is no breeze in the mountains at twilight. It is still as a tomb except for that music. Besides when the breeze is blowing at any other hours of the day there is no sound.”

Here is a copy of that issue for you to see for yourselves.

In my photographs the bluffs described by Howland are seen clearly in the distance. During our expedition we were never able to visit the caves, though Dave described the location, caves, and dwellings. On Peter’s Mesa are remains of pits where Apaches and Yavapais gathered hearts of agave to roast. We visited a small cave in the side of Peter’s Mesa showing signs of high heat and possibly used for roasting agave.

Click Me for the first post of this series, “Black Mountain.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

From Music Canyon

Down South

Dutchman Trail follows the outflow of two springs along the canyon floor: Music Canyon and LaBarge springs. Here we are climbing Peters Trail to the eponymous mesa and facing south / Southeast, looking down on Dutchman Trail.

This is rough country below Bluff Spring Mountain. Stag Horn Cholla cactus is lower right with Prickly Pear cactus scattered in the brush. Poles of young saguaro cactus are scattered around the lower slopes.

Click Me for the first post of this series, “Bluff Spring Mountain.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Black Mountain

Million Dollar View

After a respite among the cool spring waters, we headed up Peters Trail for the top of Peter’s mesa where, for all we knew, there was no water.

In this photograph I face northwest, looking down on Dutchman Trail. The peak, upper center left, is Black Mountain. The cleft of Charlebois Canyon is lower middle right. Stag Horn Cholla cactus is lower right with Prickly Pear cactus scattered in the brush. Poles of young saguaro cactus are scattered around the lower slopes. Look carefully and you can make out the pooled water of our rest stop.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Around the Mountain

The beetling cliffs of Bluff Spring Mountain

Here is a recap of the last few Superstition Wilderness posts. The expedition route, in red, starts on the right where Dutchman and Terrapin trails meet. The total distance is 2.6 miles. Photograph timestamps tell me about 2 hours passed — 1.3 miles per hour in this rough country.

I came upon the wildflowers of “Desert Color” a few minutes after starting.

“Ominous Splendor” photograph was taken just before Bluff Spring Mountain Canyon (green text).

“Marked Saguaro” was encountered a few minutes before the Cottonwood tree of “Riparian,” marked with a pushpin.

“Spring Flow” is the endpoint on left.

Here is a gallery of photographs from this portion of our expedition.

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Spring Flow

Rest Before A Climb

The expedition party rested where Dutchman Trail intersected the creek, full of flow from Charlebois Canyon, Music Canyon and LaBarge springs. We filled the water reservoirs in preparation for the climb up to the night’s camping spot on Peter’s Mesa, a 1,300 foot climb over 1.2 miles.

Behind Colorado and “Ed’s Horse” (don’t recall the name) is Bluff Spring Mountain.

Click Me for the first post in this series, “Bluff Spring Mountain.”

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Riperian

Blessings of Water

A view to west on Dutchman Trail between Bluff Spring Mountain and Peter’s Mesa. The creek flowing from Charlebois, Music Mountain and LaBarge springs nourishes this Fremont’s Cottonwood (Populus fremontii) and other riparian flora. The tree is flanked by volcanic rock from an ancient eruption.

Click Me for the next Superstition Wilderness post, “Spring Flow.”

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved