Tag: Chile

Iquique by Sea VI

Experience the breathtaking approach to Iquique, Chile, capturing the vibrant life of fishermen, the majestic beauty of Punta Negra, and the resilient spirit of this coastal community. Join us on a journey from sea to shore.

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Forty-one minutes have passed, and we are now close to the anchorage site. The pilot boat, with its vibrant orange hull, cuts a striking figure against the serene blue gray of the sea. This small but vital vessel plays an essential role in the complex choreography of maritime navigation, guiding larger ships safely through treacherous waters.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

Beyond the pilot boat, shorebirds fly in rhythmic formation, a sight both familiar and comforting. Using the zoom (300mm) of my variable zoom lens, I identify these birds as pelicans, their elegant, synchronized flight a mesmerizing display against the vast expanse of water.

The pilot boat comes to a stop between us and anchored fishing boats, a cluster of vessels that seem to float effortlessly on the waves. Each boat, with its unique character and history, tells a story of countless journeys and the lives of those who depend on the sea for their livelihood. The fishermen, with their weathered faces and hands skilled in the art of the catch, embody a resilience born from years of facing the sea’s many moods. These boats are tools of the trade, lifelines for the families and communities they support, each one a testament to the enduring human spirit.

The post header photograph captures Punta Negra, the northern boundary of the harbor. The rugged, imposing cliffs of Punta Negra rise sharply from the water, their stark beauty accentuated by a white layer of diatomaceous earth running along the coast. This geological feature, first encountered at our last port in Mollendo, Peru, adds a unique texture to the landscape, a silent testament to the natural history of the region. The white layer, created by the accumulation of microscopic algae over millennia, stands out vividly against the darker rock, a reminder of the Earth’s ancient past.

Look closely, can you make out the distinctive shape of a Monkey Puzzle tree along the shoreline road? This ancient tree, with its unique and resilient form, mirrors the endurance of those who live and work in this challenging environment. The Monkey Puzzle tree, native to Chile, is known for its hardiness and longevity, thriving in conditions where few other trees can survive. It stands as a metaphor for the people of this region, who have adapted to and thrived in one of the world’s most inhospitable landscapes.

As I zoom in further, using the full 300mm power of my lens on a stable tripod, I capture close views of the fishing boats. Each detail comes into sharp focus – the rusted hulls, the nets hanging in preparation, the names of the boats proudly painted on their sides. These vessels, with their worn and weathered appearances, have a beauty all their own. They are symbols of perseverance, of the daily struggle and triumphs of those who brave the sea to make a living. The fishing boats, though seemingly small in the vast ocean, are powerful symbols of human resilience and adaptability.

The sea, a constant presence in the lives of these people, shapes their days and their destinies. The fishermen head out each morning, guided by the tides and the weather, their knowledge of the sea passed down through generations. Each catch brings hope and sustenance, a reward for their hard work and skill. Yet, the sea is also unpredictable, capable of turning fierce and unforgiving in an instant. This duality – the sea as both provider and adversary – is a fundamental part of life here, woven into the fabric of daily existence.

Our ship’s anchor has dropped, signaling that we are ready to board the tender for the trip from anchorage to port. This marks the start of our day’s activities, a journey that will take us from the vast, open sea to the vibrant life of Iquique. As we prepare to disembark, I reflect on the interconnectedness of these moments – the precision of the pilot boat, the flight of the pelicans, the stories of the fishermen, and the enduring landscape. Each element weaves together to create a tapestry of life on the sea, a testament to the resilience and beauty of this remarkable region.

The tender ride offers a closer look at the fishing boats and the shore. I notice the intricate details of the boats – the colorful paint, the weather-beaten wood, the names that reflect the hopes and dreams of their owners. Each boat is a microcosm of life, carrying the weight of daily struggles and the promise of future catches. The fishermen, now preparing their gear for the day’s work, move with practiced ease, their actions a ballet of efficiency honed by years of experience.

As we approach the port, the city of Iquique comes into view, a bustling hub of activity nestled between the sea and the mountains. The contrast between the natural beauty of the landscape and the vibrant energy of the city is striking. Here, in this meeting place of land and sea, past and present, we see the resilience of the human spirit, the ability to adapt and thrive in even the most challenging conditions.

This journey, from the open sea to the heart of Iquique, is more than just a physical passage. It is a journey through time and history, a glimpse into the lives of those who call this place home. As we step onto the shore, ready to explore the city and its rich heritage, I carry with me the stories of the sea, the echoes of the past, and the promise of new discoveries.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea IV

Discover the vibrant blend of history and modern maritime traditions in Iquique. From the dramatic escarpment backdrop to the bustling harbor, join us on a journey exploring the city’s past and present, anchored in seafaring tales.

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Continue reading “Iquique by Sea IV” →

Iquique by Sea I

Join me on an early morning approach to Iquique, Chile, as we sail past the stark, mesmerizing Atacama Desert coastline. Experience the serene isolation and rugged beauty captured from the balcony of our cruise ship.

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Standing on the balcony of our port side stateroom, the early morning light casts a subdued, almost ethereal glow over the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The Oceania Regatta glides smoothly through the cold, dark waters, making its way toward Iquique, our first Chilean port of call. The sense of anticipation is palpable as we approach the coast of the Atacama Desert, a region renowned for being the driest place on Earth.

The view is both stark and mesmerizing. The coastline of the Atacama Desert rises sharply from the Pacific, a dramatic contrast to the vast, cold ocean that stretches out before us. The Humbolt current, a cold, nutrient-rich flow of water from southern Chile to northern Peru, swirls beneath the ship, adding a sense of dynamic movement to the scene. The chilly air, the muted colors of the sea and sky, and the barren, rugged landscape all combine to create an atmosphere of serene isolation.

In the distance, I imagine a dark point of land—the remnants of the abandoned town of Caleta Buena. Perched on a 750-foot escarpment, the town was once a bustling hub of nitrate mining, a vital industry that shaped the history of Iquique. The remains of piers jutting out into the ocean stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their weathered structures blending into the rugged coastline.

The sequence of photographs I’ve captured from this vantage point, working north to south, offers a panoramic view of this desolate yet captivating landscape. Using a 24 mm “wide angle” Canon lens mounted on a tripod, I’ve been able to frame the vastness of the ocean and the stark beauty of the Atacama coastline in a single, sweeping seascape.

Reflecting on our overnight journey from Matarani, Peru, I’m struck by the profound sense of isolation that accompanies travel along this desolate coast. During the 250-mile sail, the darkness was absolute, the inky blackness of the night broken only by the occasional glimmer of stars reflected in the ocean below. It was a journey through a void, a stark reminder of the sheer scale and remoteness of this part of the world.

As we draw closer to Iquique, the coastal mountains rise up, marking the transition from the Pacific to the arid plains of the Atacama Desert. The stark beauty of this landscape, with its rugged cliffs and barren expanses, is both humbling and awe-inspiring. It’s a reminder of the harsh conditions that have shaped this region, and of the resilience of the people who have carved out a living here over the centuries.

From the balcony of our stateroom, I feel a deep sense of connection to this place. The vastness of the ocean, the stark beauty of the desert coastline, and the rich history of the region all combine to create a profound sense of place. This is a land of extremes, a place where the forces of nature have sculpted a landscape of breathtaking beauty and unforgiving harshness.

As we approach Iquique, I feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness this unique corner of the world. The journey is a reminder of the incredible diversity and beauty of our planet, and of the importance of preserving these natural wonders for future generations. This approach to Iquique is a journey to a new port, a journey into the heart of one of the world’s most remarkable landscapes.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Valentines Day Greetings

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1959 through today

Theresa (2), Michael (5), Christine (4) in the livingroom of 107 Deepdale Parkway, Albertson, New York on Valentines Day 1959

Chocolate Valentines Day cake by Pamela Wills

Pam and I aboard the Oceania Regatta sailing the Pacific Ocean off Chile. The following day we reached Puerto Montt.
Copyright 2025 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Glacier!!!

experience a glacier of Patagonia

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Two person ship launch against glacier base.

Summer was the season for our visit to the edge of eternal, for now, Patagonian ice fields.  Remnants from the last ice age, larger than some (small) countries.  The site is surprisingly noisy with sharp, explosive, ice crackles.

More amazing even than the sounds, the dark shading on the ice is volcanic dust from recent eruptions of many cones

Click this link for my series of posts about Chilean fjords and glaciers we visited February 2016.

Copyright 2022 All Rights Reserved Michael Stephen Wills

Orsorno Volcano from the Chacao Channel

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Booking our February/March 2016 passage on the Oceania Regatta from Lima, Peru to Buenos Aires, Argentina we started early, Spring 2017. We made two excellent choices: a stateroom with balcony on the port side. Waking each morning we were treated to views of the shoreline. On the morning of February 15, 2016 as we sailed the Chacao Channel toward Puerto Montt I was up 4:15 am before the sun rose to photograph our approach to the city.

I knew a classic 8,701 foot high stratovolcano topped with glaciers, named Orsorno, was out there and, amazingly, appeared on the horizon, seventy five miles distant to the northeast outlined by the gathering dawn. The sky was just brightening from total darkness at this time.

Click me for the first South American Post in this series

Copyright 2022 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Island Romance

Happy Valentine’s Day with the original Moby Dick

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Thinking about the Aran Islands for my posts, “Killeany Bouy” and “Inisheer Welcomes the 2014 Gaeltacht Irish Football champions” brought me back to Isla Mocha.

Herman Melville’s thoughts were in and around this island off the central Chilean coast when he penned “Moby Dick” in the mid-nineteenth century while sitting in the city of Boston.  He was brought Moby Dick not only by his own experiences on a whaling ship, almost certainly Melville owned a copy of Jeremiah N. Reynolds’ “Mocha Dick: Or The White Whale of the Pacific: A Leaf from a Manuscript Journal,” an true-life account of adventures around Isla Mocha.  Sometime around 1810 Reynolds personally experienced encounters with Mocha Dick after the crew of an Antarctic expedition mutinied, stranding him at Valparaíso, Chile where he remained for two years.

Located  38°21’45.62″S,  73°55’6.91″W, around 8 miles in size north to south, 3.5 miles east to west Isla Mocha is surprisingly simple to find.  A ridge of mountains run the north south axis, just 20 miles off the coast, a ship following the coast will find it easily, as I did from the balcony of the Oceania Regatta during a “sea day” of travel between Valparaiso and Puerto Montt.

MochaIslandGoogleMpasNarrow

Since waking that day I was on the lookout for Isla Mocha.  In preparation for our month-long cruise around South America every mile of our itinerary was scoured for interesting sights, experiences and information.  When I first learned of Isla Mocha (Mocha Island in English) and the connection with Melville reading about it in Boston, just as I was in Ithaca, one of my goals for that day was to catch sight of Isla Mocha as it rose from the horizon.

My goal was made easier for the cloud formation from the island mountains.  Here is my first photograph, taken from our balcony on the port side.  I chose the port side just for the landward view as the ship progressed southward on the western coast of South America.  The Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III was tripod mounted with an EF 70-300 f4-5.6L variable lens set to 70 mm.  We are northwest of the island with the coast just visible.

Isla Mocha First Sighting

Another view with 188 mm focal length.  The ship must have turned eastward, as the view progressed the island came closer.  It was a fantastic thought to cruise above the subduction zone where the Nazca plate dives beneath the South American Plate.  In the distance, on a clear day, the volcanic cones Villarrea and Quertrupillan are visible.

RomanceOfIslandsMochaIsland2016-2

With the island due east, only a few miles away, the lens at 221 mm focal length.  A fisherman is having an easier day in a calm sea.  The indigenous people told stories of the souls of the dead travelling west to Isla Mocha.  Pirates used the island as a resupply base.  The fishing boat was the only sign of life.

RomanceOfIslandsMochaIsland2016-3

That was February 14th Valentine’s Day.  With Isla Mocha passing into the distance I changed for an evening with Pam.  Here we are headed to dinner, somewhere off the coast of Chile’s Lakes (and volcano) region.

Valentines Day 2016

Valparaiso Connections V

A Deeper Understanding

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Monuments Then and Now

Trundled along within our bubble, the Mercedes tour bus proceeded up Avenue Montt when Ricardo pointed out this statue for ridicule.  A depiction of the Chilean national bird, the Condor, porteños derisively call it “The Chicken,” and in truth the wingspan is undersized.  From the vantage of the above photograph, the statue form does capture an impression of soaring among the hills of Valparaiso.  Keep in mind, beyond those hills is Aconcagua, the highest mountain of the western hemisphere, home to Condors.  

A reason for writing multiple Varparaiso “connection” posts is to better understand the jumbled impressions from that day.  In a previous post I coined the term Varparasians for natives of the city.    I found in researching this post the residents, as for Buenos Aires, call themselves porteños (people of the port).  This cast iron statue speaks to the contributions of French immigrants to the city and nation.

Gift of the French Colony for the Centennial of Chile – Valparaíso, 1810 – 1910.

Here the view is south towards (what I believe is) Cerro Florida (Florida Hill).  France Avenue continues, beyond the monument, following a steep and winding path up the hills, at the crest intersecting with German Avenue.  Adjacent, on the right, is Park Italia where we’ll visit in part VI.  Above a cast iron basin, at each corner of the commemorative column base is a female mask, above them a gold band inscribed (from the) “The French of Valparaiso” with 1810 – 1910 to denote the centennial.  A condor with outspread wings surmounts the column.

The artist, Nicanor Plaza, born in Santiago, Chile was living in Florence, Italy at the time of this commission.  He was a natural choice for the commission.  Trained in Chile and Paris, Plaza taught for the Academy of Fine Arts of Santiago.  It is of cast iron, produced by the French company Val Osne, an art foundry dating back to 1835.  The owner, Jean Pierre Andre Victor, invented a cast iron ornamental technique originally used to produce street furniture.  

 From 1854 to 1895 immigration from France burgeoned, from a country total of 1,654 to 8,266.  This cohort is credited with developing the vineyards of the Central Valley, still famous today.  The Chilean president Augusto Pinochet descended on his father’s side from an 18th-century French Breton immigrant from Lamballe and his mother was a descendant from 17th century immigrants, partially Basque.  Pinochet’s legacy can only be attributed to himself and the ruling Junta.  What is of concern is (1) Pinochet was protected against prosecution throughout his life. (2)  The same people who protected him still hold power.  A case in point is the Esmeralda, still in service.

The Naval Training Vessel Esmeralda

 I took this photograph at dawn from our stateroom balcony, it is the
Esmeralda, a four-masted  top sail schooner, from Spain, christened May 12, 1953.  From 1973 to 1980 it was a floating torture chamber where up to 100 persons were subjected to hideous treatment by the Pinochet regime.  Protests erupt wherever it docks in a foreign port yet it remains in service.  A relatively small part of the puzzle, yet it serves as an unacknowledged monument to the failure of Chile’s ruling elite to come to terms with the recent past.

Click for my Fine Art Gallery.

Valparaiso Connections IV

The O’Higgins Carrera Feud

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“Valparaiso Connections III” brought us to Pedro Montt Avenue and the building of this imposing façade, Congreso Nacional de Chile (National Congress of Chile).  The very fact it is in Valparaiso is a recollection of the former National Congress, disbanded by the ruling Junta on September 13, 1973.  During the final years the Pinochet dictatorship chose Valparaiso for the site of a new congress building.  The former National Congress building still stands in Santiago, now housing the offices of both houses of congress.

I am fascinated the façade is shared by two founding fathers of Chile, Bernardo O’Higgins and José Miguel Carrera.  O’Higgins father never married his mother (in other words, Bernardo was a bastard).  Cared for by his mother’s privileged family, he used his mother’s family name until the death of his father.  Carrera, was also born of privilege, the acknowledge son of his father who attended the best schools, well positioned to lead the movement for Chilean independence.  Benefactors looked after O’Higgins, they sent the seventeen year old to Europe to finish his education.

In the chaos of war, in spite of ill-health and lack of military training, O’Higgins out performed Carrera as an officer through reckless bravery; surviving, he became an admired military leader through this example and ultimate victories. Carrera resented being overtaken (by a bastard), did not respect O’Higgins leadership and the two feuded. O’Higgins became the first head of the independent Chile while Carrera gathered a force.  Exiled in Paraguay, Carrera marched across the intervening wastes battling indigenous forces.  Eventually captured by those loyal to O’Higgins, Carrera suffered a mock trial and execution.

All five of Carrera’s legitimate offspring married and prospered, today his descendants number in the hundreds, being the majority of Chile’s ruling class.  Today, the followers of Carrera (Carreristas) fight for his recognition against the O’Higginistas, who they despise.  The balance is on display on the National Congress façade on Pedro Montt Avenue.  The building is next to Plaza O’Higgins.

Measured by acreage, O’Higgins is far ahead of Carrera.  The following photograph, from my posting “A Far Country VII: View of Tempanos Fjord” is from within Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, the largest protected land in Chile.

A large lake in Patagonia is named after General Carrera.

Valparaiso Connections III

Copper Cable and History

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“Valparaiso Connections II” left us with these friendly Valparasians, if such a word can be used to describe residents of the city, chatting on Argentina Avenue.

It was Saturday, the happy occasion of the weekend street fair, kiosks sprouting like mushrooms, thinly attended this early morning.

We did not pause to wander, instead turned up a street known as Pedro Montt, named for a Chilean president of the early 2oth century.  Was we turned, monumental street sculpture, rising from the kiosks, caught my eye.

A creation of the great national artist Mario Irarrzabal, it invokes solidarity through the image of four thick copper cables twisted together to form one, the union that can happen to achieve bigger things.  Opened in 1995, crafted of iron, wood and copper, after Pinochet passed power to a new democratic constitution and still held office as a Senator, protected from extradition, in the National Congress located just to the west of the monument.

The imagery works on multiple levels.  Known as “Copper Cable Monument” or “Copper Column,” the monument also stands for Chilenización del cobre (Chileanization of copper), a movement began during the presidency of General Carlos Ibáñez del Campo.  Concluded in the presidency of Salvador Allende, the takeover of foreign owned mines lead to the isolation of Chile and was a component of the support of the USA, via the CIA, for the Pinochet 1973 Chilean coup d’état.  Pinochet retained state control of the mines in the face of strong popular support for the huge contribution to state coffers.  To this day CODELCO (in English National Copper Corporation of Chile) operates as a corporate entity.

As with our guide, Ricardo (“Valparaiso Departure I”) and the companions at the start of today’s post, Irarrzabal was profoundly affected by the Pinochet dictatorship.  Under its influence as well as the sculpture of Easter Island, the artist began work on monumental sculptures.  Pam and I visited one on the other side of the South America “cone,” Punta del Este, Uruguay.

Built from Brava beach at the height of the dictatorship, 1982, of concrete, steel rebar, mesh covered with a corrosion resistant coating, the artist title it “Man Emerging to Life.”  He was a young man at the time, the work built his reputation and he repeated the theme internationally as well as, in 1992, 1,181 miles away the “Hand of the Desert.”  At that time while Chile was emerging from the Pinochet dictatorship the palm as well as fingers are visible.  The “cone” of South American, Chile and Argentina, are encompassed by the left hand of the east, a right hand of the west.