Category: south america

Myth and Art: The Sirens of Punta de las Salinas

At Punta de las Salinas, Lily Perkins’ sculptures embody siren mythology, merging art with the rugged beauty of nature’s edge.

MichaelStephenWills9 Comments

The wind carried the scent of the sea as we stood at Punta de las Salinas, the furthest tip of Punta del Este, Uruguay. This was a place of myth and mystery for us, where the Atlantic Ocean merged with the Río de la Plata, and where the rocks bore witness to the timeless interplay of water and stone. Here stood “El Canto de las Sirenas” (The Song of the Mermaids), an evocative art installation by Lily Perkins, first completed in 2012. The sculptures seemed perfectly at home here, their placement deeply intertwined with the mythology they evoked.

This is at Great Britain Square, Punta de las Salinas of Punta del Este. We are at the tip of the peninsula, the easternmost point of Uruguay. This is the art installation El Canto de las Sirenas” (The Song of the Mermaids) (2012) by the artist Lily Perkins. Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

The sirens of ancient lore were said to dwell at perilous points where land met the untamed sea, luring sailors to their doom with haunting songs. These rocky outcrops, both a boundary and a threshold, have long held symbolic power as places where the natural world is at its most raw and elemental. Punta de las Salinas is such a place. Its jagged rocks and churning waves create an environment as beautiful as it is treacherous. It is easy to imagine mythical sirens choosing this very spot to weave their spellbinding melodies.

This is at Great Britain Square, Punta de las Salinas of Punta del Este. We are at the tip of the peninsula, the easternmost point of Uruguay. This is the art installation El Canto de las Sirenas” (The Song of the Mermaids) (2012) by the artist Lily Perkins. Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Lily Perkins’ installation captures this essence. The sculptures are not idealized depictions of mermaids; they are rugged and raw, encrusted with shells, stones, and marine debris. Their weathered forms mirror the harsh, untamed beauty of their surroundings. It is as if they have emerged from the ocean itself, born of the waves and the salt-laden air, to stand as sentinels at the edge of the world.

The central figure, with her face turned skyward, evokes the myth of the siren’s song—a melody so enchanting that it drove sailors to risk their lives against the rocks. Her posture suggests longing, perhaps for a connection beyond the horizon, or perhaps for the very mortals she is fated to ensnare. Nearby, a broken figure reclines against the rocks, her form partially encased in green netting and mosaic-like tiles. She seems more grounded, her siren’s call muted, as if weighed down by the realities of the modern world. The use of marine materials in her construction—a blend of natural and human-made debris—suggests an awareness of humanity’s impact on the seas.

The third figure, slightly apart, is the most enigmatic. Encrusted with barnacles and weathered by the elements, she seems lost in thought. Her gaze is directed not toward the sea but toward the land, as if contemplating her place at this meeting of worlds. In mythology, sirens were liminal creatures, existing between realms—the sea and the shore, the mortal and the divine. This figure embodies that in-between state, rooted in the rocks yet shaped by the sea.

The placement of these sculptures at Punta de las Salinas is no accident. This headland is the easternmost point of Uruguay, a natural boundary and a crossroads where two vast bodies of water meet. For centuries, sailors navigated these waters, their journeys fraught with danger. The rocks here are unforgiving, and the waves crash with relentless power. To stand at this point is to feel the raw energy of the ocean and to understand why myths of sirens arose in such places. The sirens symbolize both allure and peril, a reminder of the ocean’s capacity to inspire and to destroy.

As I walked among the sculptures, the mythology seemed to come alive. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks could easily be imagined as the sirens’ song—a hypnotic rhythm that draws you in and holds you spellbound. The figures, though silent, seemed to hum with an energy that echoed the sea’s eternal motion.

I feld these sculptures were not merely placed at Punta de las Salinas; but had emerged from it, their forms shaped by the same forces that shaped the rocks beneath our feet. The shells and stones embedded in their surfaces tied them physically to the sea, while their mythical resonance tied them spiritually to the place.

The mythology of the sirens speaks to the duality of the sea—its beauty and its danger, its capacity to give and to take away. Standing at Punta de las Salinas, surrounded by Perkins’ sculptures, I felt that duality in a profound way. The ocean stretched endlessly before us, a vast, unknowable expanse, while behind us lay the solid ground of the peninsula—a place of safety, but also a place that ended here, at this edge.

Lily Perkins sculptures are restored…..

As we left, the figures seemed to watch us go, their silent song lingering in my mind. The sirens of Punta del Este are more than art; they are a dialogue between myth and reality, between the natural world and the human imagination. In their weathered beauty, they remind us of the stories the sea has always told, and of the enduring power of those who give those stories form.

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Capturing Punta del Este: A Morning of Candid Moments

A photographer captures candid moments in Punta del Este, celebrating the city’s vibrant life and juxtaposition of modernity and tradition.

MichaelStephenWills10 Comments

The morning sunlight bathed Punta del Este in a soft, golden glow we rode in a tour bus with large, clean windows along the streets near Punta de las Salinas, my camera Canon dslr at ready, with a Canon EF 70-300 f/4-5.6 L IS USM lens. This was the perfect time of day for street photography—the light was forgiving, and the people were starting their routines. There’s something magical about candid moments, the kind you can only find when the subjects are unaware they’re being watched. It’s these fleeting, authentic snippets of life that draw me to photography.

I came across the Centro de Información Turística, a modest but bustling hub for visitors. A man in a bright turquoise tank top walked briskly past, talking animatedly into his phone. He was a splash of vibrant color against the clean, white facade of the building, his movement so dynamic that I couldn’t resist snapping a photo. The contrast of his modern, casual style against the timeless architecture behind him captured the essence of Punta del Este—a place where history and the contemporary coexist seamlessly.

Candid shots of people at their leisure in and around Great Britain Square of Punta del Este. Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

We were headed to the shoreline for the sound of the waves and the refreshing scent of salt in the air. There, on a low stone wall, an older man in neon green shorts leaned back, exercising his arms. His weathered face was relaxed, a picture of contentment. Behind him, the ocean swirled and crashed against the rocks, and I marveled at how effortlessly this simple scene captured the spirit of life in this coastal city—a balance between the energy of the waves and human moments.

Further down the walkway, a group of people strolled leisurely, their conversations punctuated by laughter. One couple caught my eye—an older man in sunglasses walking beside a woman in a bright red sweater. The warmth between them was palpable, the kind of comfort that comes with years spent together. I raised my camera and framed them against the endless blue horizon. The waves rolled in behind them, their rhythm a perfect counterpoint to the couple’s measured pace. It was a reminder that even in a world that feels transient, some things remain steady and enduring.

Crossing the road, I noticed a young family out for a walk. The parents, both casually dressed, pushed a stroller with a little boy inside. The child’s curiosity was evident as he leaned forward, his tiny hands gripping the sides of the stroller as if ready to leap out and explore the world. The scene felt timeless—youthful energy, familial love, and the sense of new beginnings. It was an image I knew I had to capture, a slice of life that would resonate universally.

Progressing to our destination, we passed a small exercise area, where two women worked out on bright green outdoor machines. Their movements were deliberate, their focus unwavering. One wore a vivid orange top, her energy radiating even from a distance, while the other in teal moved with a more relaxed rhythm. The scene was a perfect metaphor for the city itself—a blend of activity and leisure, where people embraced life at their own pace.

We passed a row of homes and modern apartments facing the ocean. One balcony caught my attention—a young woman stood there, brushing her hair as the breeze played with it. She seemed lost in thought, gazing out at the sea, her solitude a sharp contrast to the bustling streets below. The light hit her at just the right angle, turning her into a silhouette against the backdrop of glass and steel. I clicked the shutter—a quiet moment amid the city’s liveliness.

Further along, another balcony revealed two women sitting at a small table, sharing what looked like breakfast. They were deep in conversation, their gestures animated as they leaned toward one another. The table was set simply, with two cups and a plate of food, but the scene exuded warmth and connection. It reminded me that even in a city known for its glamour and style, the real beauty lies in these intimate, unguarded moments.

As I reviewed the images on my camera, I felt a sense of satisfaction. Punta del Este had revealed itself in layers that morning—a city of contrasts and harmonies, where every street and every person seemed to have a story to tell. Through my lens, I had tried to capture not just the people, but the rhythm of life here, the interplay of light and shadow, motion and stillness, solitude and togetherness. And as the sun climbed higher in the sky, I knew I had witnessed something special—an ordinary morning made extraordinary by the people who lived it.

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Discovering La Sirena de la Garza at Punta de las Salinas

At Punta del Este, Uruguay, the beauty of the ocean and sculptures creates a profound connection between nature, art, and mythology.

MichaelStephenWills24 Comments

As I stood at the edge of Punta del Este, Uruguay, I marveled at the wild beauty of the place. We were at Punta de las Salinas, the very tip of the peninsula, the edge of where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Río de la Plata. This easternmost point of Uruguay, where time feels suspended as restless waves crash against rocky shores. A sea breeze carries a distinct salty tang.

This is at Great Britain Square, Punta de las Salinas of Punta del Este. We are at the tip of the peninsula, the easternmost point of Uruguay. Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Pam, my wife, stood beside me, a bright smile on her face as the ocean wind tugged at her sunhat. Behind her, rising among the rocks, was an art installation that seemed to embody the spirit of the place “El Canto de las Sirenas” (The Song of the Mermaids). These sculptures by the artist Lily Perkins, their forms shaped and worn by the elements, appeared almost as though they were natural extensions of the rocky coastline. They gazed out to sea, their haunting beauty a poignant reminder of myth and humanity’s eternal connection with the ocean.

The sirens, crafted with an earthy texture and adorned with bits of marine debris, seemed to tell a story of resilience and adaptation. They stood stoically against the backdrop of the churning waves, their barnacle-like surfaces merging seamlessly with their rugged surroundings. I felt a strange connection to them, as if they were silent witnesses to the ever-changing dance of the sea and sky.

Pam during our 2016 South American tour. This is at Great Britain Square, Punta de las Salinas of Punta del Este. We are at the tip of the peninsula, the easternmost point of Uruguay. Over her shoulder is the art installation “El Canto de las Sirenas” (The Song of the Mermaids) (2012) by the artist Lily Perkins. Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

The morning was perfect for photography. I adjusted my Canon camera, capturing the interplay of light and shadow across the jagged rocks, the turquoise waves, and the statues. The textures of the sirens came alive through the lens, each detail hinting at the passage of time and the endless conversations between water and stone. Pam posed in front of one of the sculptures, her presence adding a touch of humanity to the scene, as though she were part of this mythological tableau.

I took a moment to step back and absorb the scene. The coastline stretched out before me, rugged and raw, with the waves crashing in an eternal rhythm. The sirens belonged here, their forms shaped artist hands, then also by the elements. They merged into this unique place, much like the wind, the rocks, and the ocean.

As we walked along the rocky outcrop, the sound of the waves filled the air, drowning out any other noise. It was easy to lose oneself in the hypnotic patterns of the water, the spray catching the sunlight like tiny jewels. I found myself reflecting on the history of this place—Punta del Este, a meeting point of cultures and stories, a place where the natural world and human creativity converge.

Great Britain Square, where we started this journey, seemed an apt setting for such an installation. The name itself evokes a sense of exploration and connection across vast distances, much like the sirens that seem to call out across the waves. The symbolism was not lost on me as I thought about how we, too, were travelers, drawn to the edges of the earth by a desire to explore and understand.

Plaza Gran Bretana (Great Britain Square) is named for the World War II naval battle near here between the German battleship Graf Spee and the English ships Ajax, Achilles and Exeter. The plaza also has an anchor marking the boundary between Rio de la Plata and the Atlantic Ocean.

Pam and I lingered for a while longer, taking in the scenery and enjoying the peacefulness of the moment. The sculptures seemed almost alive, their forms shifting subtly as the light changed. They reminded me of the stories of sirens from ancient mythology—creatures that lured sailors to their doom with their enchanting voices. But here, they seemed more like guardians, watching over the waters and the land, their presence a testament to the enduring power of art and nature.

As the morning wore on, we made our way back, leaving the sirens behind to their eternal vigil. The experience stayed with me, though, a vivid memory of a place where myth and reality intertwine. Punta de las Salinas, with its rugged beauty and its mysterious sirens, had left an indelible mark on my heart.

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Iquique by Sea VI

Experience the breathtaking approach to Iquique, Chile, capturing the vibrant life of fishermen, the majestic beauty of Punta Negra, and the resilient spirit of this coastal community. Join us on a journey from sea to shore.

MichaelStephenWills9 Comments

Forty-one minutes have passed, and we are now close to the anchorage site. The pilot boat, with its vibrant orange hull, cuts a striking figure against the serene blue gray of the sea. This small but vital vessel plays an essential role in the complex choreography of maritime navigation, guiding larger ships safely through treacherous waters.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

Beyond the pilot boat, shorebirds fly in rhythmic formation, a sight both familiar and comforting. Using the zoom (300mm) of my variable zoom lens, I identify these birds as pelicans, their elegant, synchronized flight a mesmerizing display against the vast expanse of water.

The pilot boat comes to a stop between us and anchored fishing boats, a cluster of vessels that seem to float effortlessly on the waves. Each boat, with its unique character and history, tells a story of countless journeys and the lives of those who depend on the sea for their livelihood. The fishermen, with their weathered faces and hands skilled in the art of the catch, embody a resilience born from years of facing the sea’s many moods. These boats are tools of the trade, lifelines for the families and communities they support, each one a testament to the enduring human spirit.

The post header photograph captures Punta Negra, the northern boundary of the harbor. The rugged, imposing cliffs of Punta Negra rise sharply from the water, their stark beauty accentuated by a white layer of diatomaceous earth running along the coast. This geological feature, first encountered at our last port in Mollendo, Peru, adds a unique texture to the landscape, a silent testament to the natural history of the region. The white layer, created by the accumulation of microscopic algae over millennia, stands out vividly against the darker rock, a reminder of the Earth’s ancient past.

Look closely, can you make out the distinctive shape of a Monkey Puzzle tree along the shoreline road? This ancient tree, with its unique and resilient form, mirrors the endurance of those who live and work in this challenging environment. The Monkey Puzzle tree, native to Chile, is known for its hardiness and longevity, thriving in conditions where few other trees can survive. It stands as a metaphor for the people of this region, who have adapted to and thrived in one of the world’s most inhospitable landscapes.

As I zoom in further, using the full 300mm power of my lens on a stable tripod, I capture close views of the fishing boats. Each detail comes into sharp focus – the rusted hulls, the nets hanging in preparation, the names of the boats proudly painted on their sides. These vessels, with their worn and weathered appearances, have a beauty all their own. They are symbols of perseverance, of the daily struggle and triumphs of those who brave the sea to make a living. The fishing boats, though seemingly small in the vast ocean, are powerful symbols of human resilience and adaptability.

The sea, a constant presence in the lives of these people, shapes their days and their destinies. The fishermen head out each morning, guided by the tides and the weather, their knowledge of the sea passed down through generations. Each catch brings hope and sustenance, a reward for their hard work and skill. Yet, the sea is also unpredictable, capable of turning fierce and unforgiving in an instant. This duality – the sea as both provider and adversary – is a fundamental part of life here, woven into the fabric of daily existence.

Our ship’s anchor has dropped, signaling that we are ready to board the tender for the trip from anchorage to port. This marks the start of our day’s activities, a journey that will take us from the vast, open sea to the vibrant life of Iquique. As we prepare to disembark, I reflect on the interconnectedness of these moments – the precision of the pilot boat, the flight of the pelicans, the stories of the fishermen, and the enduring landscape. Each element weaves together to create a tapestry of life on the sea, a testament to the resilience and beauty of this remarkable region.

The tender ride offers a closer look at the fishing boats and the shore. I notice the intricate details of the boats – the colorful paint, the weather-beaten wood, the names that reflect the hopes and dreams of their owners. Each boat is a microcosm of life, carrying the weight of daily struggles and the promise of future catches. The fishermen, now preparing their gear for the day’s work, move with practiced ease, their actions a ballet of efficiency honed by years of experience.

As we approach the port, the city of Iquique comes into view, a bustling hub of activity nestled between the sea and the mountains. The contrast between the natural beauty of the landscape and the vibrant energy of the city is striking. Here, in this meeting place of land and sea, past and present, we see the resilience of the human spirit, the ability to adapt and thrive in even the most challenging conditions.

This journey, from the open sea to the heart of Iquique, is more than just a physical passage. It is a journey through time and history, a glimpse into the lives of those who call this place home. As we step onto the shore, ready to explore the city and its rich heritage, I carry with me the stories of the sea, the echoes of the past, and the promise of new discoveries.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea V

Join us on a mesmerizing journey as we approach Iquique, Chile by sea, capturing the stark beauty of the coastal landscape and exploring the fascinating history of the Atacama Desert and Humberstone’s ghostly remains.

MichaelStephenWills2 Comments

Thirty minutes have passed since Part I, and the pilot boat from Part IV is pulling away. The pilot has climbed the rope ladder up the side of the Regatta, and now the boat is pulling away, its job done for the moment.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

I use the wide angle (70mm) of the variable zoom lens to provide a panorama of the scene.

With the pilot at the helm, watched intently by the Regatta crew, the ship slowly makes its way towards the anchorage, just outside the bustling harbor. The precision and skill involved in navigating these waters are palpable. Every movement is deliberate, calculated to ensure our safe arrival.

The ship will anchor outside the navigation lane, joining a cluster of fishing boats that seem to be both close yet worlds away. This juxtaposition of large cruise ships and smaller, hardworking fishing vessels highlights the diverse marine activity in these waters.

As we edge closer, I zoom into the scene to get a better look at the “dead end” highway built into the steep escarpment above the fishing boat anchorage.

This road, carved into the rugged terrain, is where service vehicles are parked. It’s a stark reminder of the isolation and the challenges faced by those living and working in this region. The road, seemingly clinging to the side of the escarpment, underscores the harsh, arid landscape that surrounds Iquique.

There is only one road linking Iquique to the outside world, a lifeline that snakes its way through the unforgiving Atacama Desert. This single route is vital, not just for the movement of people, but for the transport of goods and services that sustain the city and its inhabitants. The resilience required to thrive in such an environment is evident everywhere you look.

In the distance, the fishing boats bob gently on the waves, a stark contrast to the imposing cliffs that rise sharply from the sea. The boats, though dwarfed by the natural landscape, exude a quiet dignity, representing the enduring spirit of those who make their living from the ocean. The water, a deep, reflective blue, mirrors the sky above, creating a seamless blend of sea and sky, interrupted only by the rugged coastline.

Our journey today will take us beyond the city, along this solitary road to the World Heritage Site of Humberstone. Once a bustling nitrate mine, Humberstone sits on a plane above the city, a stark reminder of Chile’s rich industrial history. The site, now a ghost town, tells the story of the nitrate boom that once powered the region’s economy. As we drive, the landscape will transition from the coastal beauty of Iquique to the stark, desolate beauty of the Atacama Desert.

This is a journey through time, from the modern-day hustle and bustle of Iquique to the silent echoes of Humberstone’s past. The road a connection to the history and heritage of this remarkable region. As we venture into the heart of the desert, the stories of those who lived and worked in these harsh conditions will come alive, offering a glimpse into the resilience and determination that define the spirit of Chile.

The anchorage, with its mix of modern and traditional vessels, serves as a microcosm of Iquique itself – a city where the past and present coexist, where the sea provides a livelihood, and the land tells a story of survival and adaptation. As the Regatta settles into its temporary home on the water, I feel a sense of anticipation for the adventures that lie ahead. The pilot boat, now a small speck in the distance, has done its job, guiding us safely to this point. From here, the journey continues, both on land and through the annals of history, as we set out to explore the wonders of Iquique and beyond.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea IV

Discover the vibrant blend of history and modern maritime traditions in Iquique. From the dramatic escarpment backdrop to the bustling harbor, join us on a journey exploring the city’s past and present, anchored in seafaring tales.

MichaelStephenWills11 Comments

Continue reading “Iquique by Sea IV” →

Iquique by Sea III

Explore the dramatic events of May 21, 1879, when Captain Arturo Prat’s heroic stand at the Battle of Iquique turned the tide of the War of the Pacific, shaping South American history. Discover the legacy of this pivotal naval encounter.

MichaelStephenWills13 Comments

Iquique was a Peruvian city under Chilean naval blockade in May 1879 during the War of the Pacific, also called the Saltpeter War, for control of valuable nitrate deposits in the Atacama Desert. The conflict primarily involved Chile, Peru, and Bolivia, with Chile aiming to secure the resource-rich coastal regions of Bolivia and southern Peru.

The photographs illustrating this post feature Valparaiso, beginning with an overview of Plaza Sotomayor from the bridge of the ship Regatta docked in the harbor. Centered in the square is a memorial to the heroes of Iquique, a tribute to those who fought valiantly during the naval confrontations.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

View of the Monument to the Heroes of Iquique from the bridge of the Regatta.

On the morning of May 21, 1879, two older wooden Chilean ships were stationed blockading the Iquique harbor: the corvette Esmeralda, captained by Arturo Prat Chacón, and the schooner Covadonga. Out of the thick morning fog emerged two Peruvian ironclad ships, the Huáscar and the Independencia. The Huáscar, commanded by Admiral Miguel Grau, posed a significant threat to the Chilean blockade due to its superior firepower and armor.

The Heroes’ Names are listed in large letters

Facing the formidable Peruvian ironclads, the Covadonga withdrew to avoid certain destruction. Captain Prat, however, stood his ground aboard the Esmeralda. Despite being heavily outgunned and outmatched, Prat chose to engage the Huáscar. In a courageous but ultimately futile effort, Prat attempted to board the Huáscar but was killed in the process, and the Esmeralda was subsequently destroyed with a great loss of life.

Each corner features a larger than life statue representing the heroes

The Battle of Iquique ended with a Peruvian victory, temporarily lifting the blockade and opening the port. However, the heroism displayed by Captain Prat and his crew had a profound impact on Chilean morale. News of their bravery spread rapidly, galvanizing the Chilean population and military. Prat’s sacrifice became a symbol of national pride and determination, fueling Chile’s resolve to win the war.

One figure is Captain Prat

The outcome of the War of the Pacific was a decisive victory for Chile. By the end of the conflict in 1884, Chile had gained significant territories from Peru and Bolivia, including the nitrate-rich provinces of Tarapacá and Antofagasta. These territorial acquisitions provided Chile with substantial economic benefits due to the lucrative nitrate mines, which were crucial for agricultural fertilizers and explosives.

The War of the Pacific had far-reaching consequences for the region. Bolivia lost its coastal territory, becoming a landlocked country, which has had lasting implications on its economic development and geopolitical strategy. Peru, on the other hand, was forced to cede valuable territories and endured a period of economic hardship and political instability following the war.

Today, the Battle of Iquique is commemorated annually in Chile on Naval Glories Day (Día de las Glorias Navales) on May 21st. This national holiday honors the bravery of Captain Prat and his men, serving as a reminder of their sacrifice and the pivotal role the battle played in Chilean history.

In summary, the blockade of Iquique and the ensuing naval battle were significant events in the War of the Pacific. They highlighted the strategic importance of naval power and the impact of individual heroism on national morale. The war reshaped the territorial boundaries in the region, with lasting economic and political effects that continue to influence the countries involved.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2020 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea II

Explore the rugged beauty of Chile’s Atacama Desert coast as we approach Iquique. Discover the historical significance of ghost towns and the stunning natural landscapes captured through a zoom lens from our cruise ship.

MichaelStephenWills5 Comments

As we continue our approach to Iquique, the landscape unfolds with increasing clarity and detail after I swapped out the 24 mm lens with a variable “zoom”, 70 – 300mm. The ship’s slow progress offers ample time to observe and absorb the stark beauty of the coastline. The variable lens captures the rugged intricacies of the cliffs and the subtle hues of the arid landscape that rise abruptly from the Pacific Ocean.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

Caleta Buena, the ghost town perched at the foot of a 750-foot escarpment, is no longer in sight. This once-thriving nitrate shipping point is a haunting reminder of the region’s historical significance in the nitrate mining industry. The small bay, or “caleta,” provided just enough shelter to construct piers and docks, facilitating the transportation of this valuable mineral. The remnants of this enterprise are barely visible, blending seamlessly into the harsh terrain.

The juxtaposition of the nutrient-rich Humbolt Current against the barren cliffs is a sight to behold. The current, teeming with marine life, supports the local fishing industry. I manage to capture a small fishing boat setting out for the day, its solitary presence emphasizing the vastness and solitude of the surrounding ocean. The boat’s journey highlights the symbiotic relationship between the sea’s bounty and the livelihood of those who brave its waters.

Moving southward, the cliffs give way to a formidable pediment, a broad, sloping surface that forms the base of the coastal mountains. This pediment, barren and uninviting, is a testament to the geological forces that have shaped this region. The harsh environment, with its minimal vegetation and arid conditions, stands in stark contrast to the vibrant marine ecosystem just offshore.

Our ship’s slow advance allows for contemplation of this unique landscape. The term “the imprint of God’s thumb on the land” resonates deeply as I witness the natural formations that seem almost intentional in their design. The cliffs and pediment, while imposing, serve as a prelude to the more hospitable terrain that lies ahead.

Approaching Punto Negro, the cliffs begin to recede, revealing a more accessible coastline. This geographical shift creates a natural harbor that has enabled the establishment and growth of Iquique. The city, with its deep-rooted history in the nitrate industry, emerges as a beacon of human resilience and adaptation in an otherwise unforgiving landscape.

Iquique’s strategic location, nestled between the receding cliffs and the ocean, provides a unique blend of natural beauty and industrial significance. The city’s development is intricately linked to the geographical features that surround it, from the nutrient-rich waters of the Humbolt Current to the protective embrace of the coastal cliffs.

As the Regatta inches closer to port, the anticipation builds. The approach to Iquique is not merely a physical journey but a voyage through time and nature’s grandeur. Each photograph, each observation, adds a layer to the rich tapestry of this experience. The slow, deliberate pace of the ship allows for a deeper appreciation of the intricate interplay between land and sea, history and progress.

In these moments of quiet reflection, I feel a profound connection to the land and its stories. The approach to Iquique is a reminder of the delicate balance that sustains life in this harsh yet beautiful corner of the world. It is a journey that underscores the resilience of both nature and humanity, each adapting to and shaping the other in an ongoing dance of survival and growth.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea I

Join me on an early morning approach to Iquique, Chile, as we sail past the stark, mesmerizing Atacama Desert coastline. Experience the serene isolation and rugged beauty captured from the balcony of our cruise ship.

MichaelStephenWills32 Comments

Standing on the balcony of our port side stateroom, the early morning light casts a subdued, almost ethereal glow over the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The Oceania Regatta glides smoothly through the cold, dark waters, making its way toward Iquique, our first Chilean port of call. The sense of anticipation is palpable as we approach the coast of the Atacama Desert, a region renowned for being the driest place on Earth.

The view is both stark and mesmerizing. The coastline of the Atacama Desert rises sharply from the Pacific, a dramatic contrast to the vast, cold ocean that stretches out before us. The Humbolt current, a cold, nutrient-rich flow of water from southern Chile to northern Peru, swirls beneath the ship, adding a sense of dynamic movement to the scene. The chilly air, the muted colors of the sea and sky, and the barren, rugged landscape all combine to create an atmosphere of serene isolation.

In the distance, I imagine a dark point of land—the remnants of the abandoned town of Caleta Buena. Perched on a 750-foot escarpment, the town was once a bustling hub of nitrate mining, a vital industry that shaped the history of Iquique. The remains of piers jutting out into the ocean stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their weathered structures blending into the rugged coastline.

The sequence of photographs I’ve captured from this vantage point, working north to south, offers a panoramic view of this desolate yet captivating landscape. Using a 24 mm “wide angle” Canon lens mounted on a tripod, I’ve been able to frame the vastness of the ocean and the stark beauty of the Atacama coastline in a single, sweeping seascape.

Reflecting on our overnight journey from Matarani, Peru, I’m struck by the profound sense of isolation that accompanies travel along this desolate coast. During the 250-mile sail, the darkness was absolute, the inky blackness of the night broken only by the occasional glimmer of stars reflected in the ocean below. It was a journey through a void, a stark reminder of the sheer scale and remoteness of this part of the world.

As we draw closer to Iquique, the coastal mountains rise up, marking the transition from the Pacific to the arid plains of the Atacama Desert. The stark beauty of this landscape, with its rugged cliffs and barren expanses, is both humbling and awe-inspiring. It’s a reminder of the harsh conditions that have shaped this region, and of the resilience of the people who have carved out a living here over the centuries.

From the balcony of our stateroom, I feel a deep sense of connection to this place. The vastness of the ocean, the stark beauty of the desert coastline, and the rich history of the region all combine to create a profound sense of place. This is a land of extremes, a place where the forces of nature have sculpted a landscape of breathtaking beauty and unforgiving harshness.

As we approach Iquique, I feel a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness this unique corner of the world. The journey is a reminder of the incredible diversity and beauty of our planet, and of the importance of preserving these natural wonders for future generations. This approach to Iquique is a journey to a new port, a journey into the heart of one of the world’s most remarkable landscapes.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

PeruRail to Machu Picchu IX

Urubamba River or Vilcamayo River (possibly from Quechua Willkamayu, for “sacred river”)

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As we crossed the border of the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu the valley walls rose steeply on either side, the land transitioning to rain forest.

Google Earth We approach the border of the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu

We entered a short tunnel through a mountain ridge, providing us this close view of the Urubamba River.

Next we came upon the Toronto Ruins.

The Toronto complex includes seven (7) archaeological groups and is in front of the Q’ente Complex, separated only by the Urubamba River, possibly they were independent chiefdoms with a strong economic bond.

The seven (7) archaeological groups are Torontoy: The local farmers call it Inkaperqa or Inca raqay, alluding to what they see. In this place we can find a main doorway, several groups of enclosures, patios or free areas separating the buildings, vestiges of a liturgical bath and a central enclosure with a lithic piece of more than 40 angles that joins other twenty-eight pieces with exact interlocking in the joints.

Salapunku: means hall door in the Inca language, because what is most obvious is a wide door that is on a platform that runs as a street in front of the wall. Behind the door we find cyclopean platforms and plains with remains of stairways, interior roads and remains of aqueducts. Qhanabamba translates to pampa where the grass “qhana” grows. It is at the height of Km. 85 of the railroad line. We can find a series of one-story buildings and a two-story building which is the largest. Wayrajpunku: meaning windy door (alluding to a windy place). In this group we find remains of buildings and a partially standing enclosure, there are vestiges of aqueducts, paths and overcrowding of canted stones that were part of constructions.

Pincha Unuyuj: Here were made the best hydraulic works of the zone, the crystalline waters that descend, appear channeled by wide lithic channels; also we find from the bank of the river a succession of parallel platforms, a road that leads to an adoratory carved in the rock insitu, ascending some houses and an observation tower. Qoriwayrachina It means gold winnowing. We can find the following: A huge staircase with more than one meter wide, semicircular ramparts, platforms as retaining walls and a vertical slope worked that is on the turbulent waters of the river.

Retamayuj, having a broom, in this group we can find long platforms with semi-cyclopean walls, tombs that are desecrated at the base of the mountain and others intact. In 2008 A team from Peru’s National Institute of Culture (INC) working on the ruins of Torontoy in the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu, discovered the tomb of an Inca with full funerary regalia. The gender and age of the tomb’s owner has not yet been determined but found with the body were a number of decorated ceramics and two pins.

Copyright 2023 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved