Thirty minutes have passed since Part I, and the pilot boat from Part IV is pulling away. The pilot has climbed the rope ladder up the side of the Regatta, and now the boat is pulling away, its job done for the moment.
Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.
I use the wide angle (70mm) of the variable zoom lens to provide a panorama of the scene.
With the pilot at the helm, watched intently by the Regatta crew, the ship slowly makes its way towards the anchorage, just outside the bustling harbor. The precision and skill involved in navigating these waters are palpable. Every movement is deliberate, calculated to ensure our safe arrival.
The ship will anchor outside the navigation lane, joining a cluster of fishing boats that seem to be both close yet worlds away. This juxtaposition of large cruise ships and smaller, hardworking fishing vessels highlights the diverse marine activity in these waters.
As we edge closer, I zoom into the scene to get a better look at the “dead end” highway built into the steep escarpment above the fishing boat anchorage.
This road, carved into the rugged terrain, is where service vehicles are parked. It’s a stark reminder of the isolation and the challenges faced by those living and working in this region. The road, seemingly clinging to the side of the escarpment, underscores the harsh, arid landscape that surrounds Iquique.
There is only one road linking Iquique to the outside world, a lifeline that snakes its way through the unforgiving Atacama Desert. This single route is vital, not just for the movement of people, but for the transport of goods and services that sustain the city and its inhabitants. The resilience required to thrive in such an environment is evident everywhere you look.
In the distance, the fishing boats bob gently on the waves, a stark contrast to the imposing cliffs that rise sharply from the sea. The boats, though dwarfed by the natural landscape, exude a quiet dignity, representing the enduring spirit of those who make their living from the ocean. The water, a deep, reflective blue, mirrors the sky above, creating a seamless blend of sea and sky, interrupted only by the rugged coastline.
Our journey today will take us beyond the city, along this solitary road to the World Heritage Site of Humberstone. Once a bustling nitrate mine, Humberstone sits on a plane above the city, a stark reminder of Chile’s rich industrial history. The site, now a ghost town, tells the story of the nitrate boom that once powered the region’s economy. As we drive, the landscape will transition from the coastal beauty of Iquique to the stark, desolate beauty of the Atacama Desert.
This is a journey through time, from the modern-day hustle and bustle of Iquique to the silent echoes of Humberstone’s past. The road a connection to the history and heritage of this remarkable region. As we venture into the heart of the desert, the stories of those who lived and worked in these harsh conditions will come alive, offering a glimpse into the resilience and determination that define the spirit of Chile.
The anchorage, with its mix of modern and traditional vessels, serves as a microcosm of Iquique itself – a city where the past and present coexist, where the sea provides a livelihood, and the land tells a story of survival and adaptation. As the Regatta settles into its temporary home on the water, I feel a sense of anticipation for the adventures that lie ahead. The pilot boat, now a small speck in the distance, has done its job, guiding us safely to this point. From here, the journey continues, both on land and through the annals of history, as we set out to explore the wonders of Iquique and beyond.
Michael Stephen Wills Photography 