Author: MichaelStephenWills

My photographic style centers on the use of natural light to visualize emotion and evoke memory. The evolution of my style began early in the year 2002, with an imperative to capture personal and fleeting memories. My son and I traveled to New York City, to view the first Saint Patrick's Day parade after September 11, 2001. My work from that parade was so successful and satisfying (see "New York Fire Department, Saint Patrick's Day 2002") I just never stopped.

Life Unraveled: An Encounter with the Emerald Ash Borer

As I walked the quiet medical campus, a dying ash tree caught my eye. Its bark revealed the intricate, destructive galleries left by the relentless Emerald Ash Borer, telling a silent story of loss.

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Feeling the need for air, for motion I walk the grounds of a medical campus in Northeast Ithaca, New York, as my wife undergoes physical therapy following her total hip replacement. The sun is high, casting long shadows across the neatly trimmed lawn and scattered trees. There’s a certain calmness here, a space to reflect amid the quiet hustle of the healthcare world.

One tree stands out from the others. I immediately sense that something is not quite right. The branches, bare and brittle, reach out like skeletal arms against the blue sky. It’s summer—this tree should be lush, green, full of life. Yet, here it stands, a stark silhouette among the healthier trees nearby. My curiosity draws me closer, and as I circle the tree, my suspicions are confirmed: it’s an ash tree, Fraxinus americana, dying from an all-too-familiar enemy, the Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis).

A dying ash tree on the medical campus off Warren Road, Northeast Ithaca.

The first clue is a thinning canopy. Ash trees, in their prime, have such graceful foliage, creating broad umbrellas of shade. But when they fall victim to the Emerald Ash Borer, their decline is swift and merciless. The branches I see now are devoid of leaves, save for a few stragglers clinging on in vain. The bark tells an even clearer story. Large chunks have sloughed off, revealing a labyrinth of winding, S-shaped galleries just beneath the surface. These are the telltale signs of the larvae, relentlessly feeding on the inner bark, severing the tree’s lifeline as they go.

The tunnels left by the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) are called galleries. These S-shaped galleries are created by the larvae of the EAB as they feed on the inner bark and cambium of ash trees. The galleries disrupt the tree’s ability to transport nutrients and water, eventually leading to the tree’s death.

I pull out my phone to capture some close-up shots. The gnarled, crisscrossing tunnels that wind through the exposed wood are mesmerizing in a way, almost like a natural etching carved by the tiny jaws of the Emerald Ash Borer. They’ve created a kind of grim artwork on this dying tree, though there’s nothing beautiful about the destruction they leave behind. I know that underneath this bark, the tree’s circulatory system—the xylem and phloem—has been disrupted, no longer able to transport water or nutrients. Slowly, the tree has starved.

It’s strange how, in the middle of waiting for my wife’s recovery, I find myself thinking about life and loss in this quiet moment with the ash tree. In some ways, this frail giant mirrors what my wife has been going through. The breakdown of something once strong and vital—be it bone or tree—doesn’t happen overnight. It’s gradual, unnoticed at first, until the damage becomes too great to ignore. But while my wife’s new hip will give her strength and mobility once more, there’s no hip replacement for this ash tree. The damage here is irreversible.

I circle the tree again, and the more I look, the more I notice the signs of decline. The bark peels away easily, almost like paper, exposing more of the damaged wood beneath. In some areas, there are what look like D-shaped exit holes, where the adult Emerald Ash Borers have chewed their way out to fly off and start the cycle anew. This is what makes the battle against this invasive species so frustrating—they are small, almost insignificant in size, but the sheer numbers in which they attack, combined with their ability to spread so quickly, make them nearly impossible to stop.

Just as I’m about to walk away, a thought crosses my mind: how many more ash trees will fall to this same fate? The Emerald Ash Borer, a native of Asia, arrived in the United States sometime in the early 2000s, hitching a ride in wooden packing materials. It quickly spread across states, leaving devastation in its wake. Here in New York, the effects have been nothing short of catastrophic. Entire forests of ash are being wiped out, and this tree, standing alone on the edge of the medical campus, is just one more casualty.

I turn back toward the building, the rhythmic crunch of my footsteps on the path feeling heavier now. As my wife works to heal and rebuild her strength inside, I think about the resilience of the human body, its ability to repair, to bounce back after trauma. But for the ash tree, there is no such recovery. Without intervention—chemical treatments that are costly and often impractical on a large scale—this tree will eventually become firewood, its wood too damaged to be of much use for anything else.

It’s a sobering thought, but also a reminder. Nature’s battles, much like our own, are often unseen, quiet struggles that unfold slowly over time. Sometimes, we win, as my wife will with her new hip, but other times, like the ash tree and its silent battle with the Emerald Ash Borer, the fight is already lost.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

A Saint’s Origins: How Famine and Faith Shaped Marianne Cope

While exploring Saint Marianne Cope’s early life, I uncovered the hardships her family faced during Germany’s devastating 1816 famine. Their struggles and eventual emigration shaped the resilient spirit of this future saint. Read more about their journey in my blog.

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While my wife was recovering from major surgery at Saint Francis Hospital in Syracuse, New York, I spent a morning at the nearby Shrine and Museum of Saint Marianne Cope. There, I delved into the early life of this remarkable saint, born Barbara Koob. As I explored her story, I found myself drawn to the experiences of her parents, Peter and Barbara Wirzenbacher Koob, who endured some of the most challenging times in early 19th-century Germany. Their struggles, shaped by the economic and social crises of the time, played a pivotal role in the Koob family’s eventual emigration to the United States, setting the stage for their daughter’s life of service.

Saint Marianne Cope Shrine and Museum, adjacent to Saint Joseph’s Hospital, Syracuse, New York. Captured from a street view of Google Maps.

The story begins in Heppenheim, a small town nestled in the southern part of Hesse, Germany. Like many other towns in the region, Heppenheim was reliant on agriculture for survival. However, the year 1816 brought unprecedented hardship. Known as the “Year Without a Summer,” this period was marked by extreme cold and wet conditions, caused by the catastrophic eruption of Mount Tambora in Indonesia. The volcanic ash released into the atmosphere blocked sunlight and disrupted weather patterns across the globe.

Heppenheim is the seat of Bergstraße district in Hesse, Germany, lying on the Bergstraße on the edge of the Odenwald. This photograph is from Google Maps.

For the people of Heppenheim, this meant crop failures on an unimaginable scale. Rye and wheat, staples of their diet, rotted in the fields. Food became scarce, and prices soared. The ensuing famine left families, including the Koobs and their ancestors, struggling to survive. As hunger gnawed at them, they faced a bleak future. This economic strain was compounded by broader challenges: industrialization was beginning to transform the German economy, leaving traditional agrarian lifestyles in its wake, while political unrest simmered as the fragmented German states wrestled with issues of governance and unity.

These hardships were not unique to Heppenheim. Across Germany, the “Hunger Years” of 1816-1817 prompted widespread despair. For many, including the Koob family, the promise of a better life beckoned from across the Atlantic. The United States, with its vast expanses of fertile land and burgeoning economy, seemed to offer a way out of the grinding poverty and instability that had taken hold in their homeland.

A home in Heppenheim. Photograph from Google Maps and taken around 2022.

Barbara Koob was born on January 23, 1838, into a family deeply rooted in their community. Peter Koob was identified as a “Citizen and Farmer,” and shortly after her birth, Barbara was baptized at St. Peter’s Church, marking the beginning of her journey in a devout Catholic family.

Heppenheim, where Barbara Koop (Saint Marianne Cope) was born here January 23, 1838 and baptized as a Catholic shortly after this church, Saint Peter’s. Google Maps Photograph taken around 2022

By 1839, Peter and Barbara Koob, like many others from their region, made the difficult decision to leave Heppenheim behind. With their young daughter Barbara, they embarked on a journey to the United States. They settled in Utica, New York, where the opportunities for a new beginning were more promising, even though the bustling industrial town was a far cry from the rural life they had known. In 1862, Barbara committed herself to the Sisters of the Third Order of St. Francis in Syracuse, New York, taking the name “Marianne Cope.”

Mother Marianne Cope statue dedicated January 23, 2010, in Honolulu.
Attribution: billsoPHOTO, CC BY-SA 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Reflecting on these events, it becomes clear how deeply the early experiences of famine and economic hardship must have influenced the Koob family’s decisions and, ultimately, the life of their daughter. The struggles of her parents during those hard years in Germany laid the foundation for Marianne Cope’s own resilience and dedication to serving those in need. Their story is a testament to the strength of the human spirit in the face of adversity and the powerful role that faith and hope can play in guiding one’s path.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Echoes of Flight: The Summer the Monarchs Did Not Come

Contemplate the quiet sorrow of a summer without monarchs. Click on the photo to read the full story and reflect on this profound sense of loss on my blog.

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This past summer, an absence visited our garden—a loss more profound than the quieting of wind. It was the virtual silence of an empty sky where monarch butterflies should have danced. Each day, we waited, hoping to catch a glimpse of those delicate wings, vibrant with orange and black, fluttering above the milkweed. But the familiar sight never came.

Monarch butterflies, those ethereal creatures that once graced our summers, seemed to have forgotten us.

Macro of the Monarch butterfly chrysalis. The black stalk attached to the silk pad is call a cremaster.

The photograph of the monarch chrysalis, a delicate gem hanging on a thread of life, speaks to the fragility of nature itself. Each chrysalis is a promise—a quiet, patient promise of transformation and renewal. Yet this summer, those promises vanished, leaving us to wonder where the monarchs had gone, what changes in the world pulled them away from our home in the Finger Lakes.

Our first monarch butterfly of 2023 just after emergence from the chrysalis and after wing expansion. This female will hang for several hours while the wings dry.

Another image from a time not so long ago, yet now seeming distant, shows a monarch caterpillar nestled among the milkweed blossoms. This was a time when our garden was alive with their presence, each caterpillar a testament to the cycle of life that once thrived here. The sight of them devouring the leaves was a sign of hope, a prelude to the transformation that would soon unfold. Now, that vibrant energy has vanished, leaving behind a quiet that speaks of loss and absence.

We are left to reflect on this silence, on the empty milkweed leaves and the air where monarchs once flew. The memories of summers past, when the monarchs filled our garden with their grace, are bittersweet now. They remind us of a time when the connection between the earth and its creatures was still intact, when the balance of nature had not yet been so precariously tipped.

In their absence, the monarchs leave behind a message—a reminder that their delicate beauty is not guaranteed, that the balance we once took for granted can be lost. The summer without monarchs urges us to look inward, to consider what must change, what must be protected, so that future summers may once again be filled with the fluttering of wings and the promise of life renewed.

The garden absence this year is a call to action, a plea from the earth itself to remember the delicate threads that connect us all. May we answer that call, so that this summer of loss will not reach into the future, but will be a pause, a moment of reflection before the return of the monarchs, and with them, the return of hope.

Request to my North American readers: leave comments exploring your experiences of Monarch butterflies the summer of 2024

Here are links to more Monarch photographs and videos.

Flight

Monarch Caterpillar to Chrysalis

Monarch Emergence

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Sunrise at Cocoa Beach: A Symphony of Colors on the Space Coast

Experience the breathtaking sunrise at Cocoa Beach, where the sky and sea blend in a symphony of colors. Discover the tranquility and beauty that awaits as the day dawns on Florida’s stunning Space Coast.

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Click this link for my Online gallery

Cocoa Beach, nestled in Brevard County, Florida, is renowned for its pristine sandy shores and the rhythmic lullaby of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a place where the day often begins with an awe-inspiring sunrise. On the Space Coast, the first light of day is a daily masterpiece, a silent symphony of colors that paints the sky and reflects off the water.

As dawn approaches, the eastern horizon begins to glow with a soft, pre-dawn light. This quiet time, when the world is still asleep, offers a unique tranquility. The beach, usually bustling with surfers, sunbathers, and families, is calm and serene. The sand, cool underfoot, stretches out like a vast canvas, waiting for the sun to begin its artwork.

The first hues of sunrise start as a gentle blush, a hint of pink that softly caresses the sky. As the moments pass, this blush deepens into shades of orange and red, reminiscent of a painter’s palette. The ocean mirrors these colors, creating a breathtaking scene where sky and sea blend into one continuous expanse. It’s a moment that feels almost sacred, as if nature itself is preparing for a grand reveal.

The sun finally peeks above the horizon, a fiery orb that illuminates the world in golden light. This is the crescendo of the sunrise, a moment that seems to hold the breath of the world. The rays of light stretch out across the water, casting a shimmering path that invites the eyes to follow. It’s a path that feels both real and ethereal, leading not just across the sea, but into a day full of possibilities.

As the sun rises higher, the colors in the sky shift and change. The deep reds and oranges give way to softer yellows and then to the clear, bright light of morning. The ocean, too, transforms, taking on a deeper blue as the sunlight penetrates its depths. The waves, which had been gentle ripples in the pre-dawn light, now dance and sparkle, as if celebrating the arrival of the new day.

For those fortunate enough to witness it, a sunrise at Cocoa Beach engages all the senses. The cool breeze carries the fresh scent of saltwater, a reminder of the ocean’s vastness and power. The sound of the waves, steady and rhythmic, provides a soothing background score, while the occasional cry of a seabird adds a touch of the wild to the scene.

Click on a photo for a closer look.

There is a sense of community among the early risers who gather to watch the sunrise. Strangers often share nods and smiles, united by the shared experience of witnessing something so beautiful and ephemeral. It’s a reminder that, no matter our differences, moments of natural beauty can bring people together, fostering a sense of connection and shared humanity.

Cocoa Beach, known for its proximity to the Kennedy Space Center and its surf culture, offers much more than meets the eye. The sunrise is a daily reminder of the simple yet profound beauty of nature, a beauty that exists beyond the man-made attractions and the hustle and bustle of everyday life. It’s a call to pause, reflect, and appreciate the world around us.

In a place where rockets soar into the sky, touching the very edge of space, the sunrise at Cocoa Beach brings us back to Earth, grounding us in the timeless rhythm of the natural world. It’s a moment of peace and renewal, a gift from the universe to start the day with a heart full of wonder and gratitude.

So, whether you’re a local or a visitor, taking the time to watch the sunrise at Cocoa Beach is an experience not to be missed. It’s a chance to witness the world waking up, to feel a part of something larger than oneself, and to start the day with a renewed sense of awe and possibility.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

The Last Bloom and the Bee’s Blessing

In the final bloom of the season, a honeybee’s delicate dance with the Queen of the Night captures the fleeting beauty of nature’s cycles. Discover the profound connection between flower, bee, and life’s rhythms.

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The Epiphyllum oxypetalum, commonly known as the Queen of the Night, is a remarkable plant. Native to Central America, this epiphyte is known for its large, fragrant flowers that bloom only once a year and last just for a single night. The fleeting nature of its bloom makes it a symbol of transience and beauty in many cultures. For me, this flower is a quiet, intimate connection to the rhythms of nature that play out around our home in Ithaca, New York.

The images you see include the last flower of the season, a white starburst of delicate petals encasing a universe of intricate details. As the day progresses, the flower remains open, revealing the next chapter in its life cycle—the possibility of forming fruit. This potential is entirely dependent on pollination, a process that is both beautifully simple and astonishingly complex.

A honeybee, a tiny yet essential participant in the grand scheme of things, hovers and lands delicately on the flower. In the first image, the bee appears tentative, exploring the outer fringes of the flower’s central structures. Its wings are still, as if it has just touched down after a careful, deliberate approach. The stamens, like a thousand arms extended in welcome, offer their pollen. Each grain of pollen is a promise, a potential seed, carried with the hope of propagation. The bee is the flower’s messenger, moving from one bloom to another, ensuring the continuity of life.

As I observe the bee’s actions through these photographs, I can’t help but reflect on the importance of these small creatures. Their work often goes unnoticed, yet without them, our ecosystems would collapse. The honeybee, in particular, has been a focus of concern in recent years due to declining populations, largely attributed to human activities. But here, in my garden, this bee is simply going about its day, unaware of the broader implications of its existence. It is focused on the task at hand, a model of mindfulness in action.

In the second and third images, the bee has moved deeper into the flower, its body now dusted with pollen. It is fully engaged in its work, undeterred by the enormity of its task. The pink style of the flower contrasts sharply with the white petals and the yellow stamens, creating a vibrant tableau of life. The bee’s body is now part of this scene, its presence both functional and aesthetic. It is not just a visitor; it is an integral part of the flower’s story.

The fourth and fifth images capture the culmination of the bee’s efforts. Having gathered what it came for, the bee is ready to move on, its job done here. The flower, too, has fulfilled its role for the season. The energy it expended to produce this magnificent bloom will now be directed towards forming fruit, provided that the pollination process is successful. If it is, this single flower will give rise to a new generation of plants, continuing the cycle of life.

But there is another, more personal layer to this story. This is the last flower of the season. It carries with it the weight of finality, the knowledge that soon the plant will rest, conserving its energy for the next year’s bloom. As I contemplate this, I am reminded of the cycles that govern not just plant life, but all life. There is a time for blooming, a time for fruiting, and a time for rest. Each phase is essential, each one a preparation for the next.

A bonus view of the honeybee in action

In allowing this flower to form fruit, I am participating, in a small way, in this cycle. We are stewards of the natural world, responsible for nurturing and preserving the life forms that share our planet. The honeybee, the flower, and I are all connected in this intricate web of life, each playing our part in the unfolding drama of existence.

These photographs are a meditation on life, a reminder of the beauty and fragility of the world around us. They capture a moment in time, brief encounters between a flower and a bee, but they also speak to something larger, something timeless. The Epiphyllum oxypetalum may bloom for just one night, but its impact, like that of the honeybee, reverberates far beyond that brief window. And in that, there is a profound lesson for all of us.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea VI

Experience the breathtaking approach to Iquique, Chile, capturing the vibrant life of fishermen, the majestic beauty of Punta Negra, and the resilient spirit of this coastal community. Join us on a journey from sea to shore.

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Forty-one minutes have passed, and we are now close to the anchorage site. The pilot boat, with its vibrant orange hull, cuts a striking figure against the serene blue gray of the sea. This small but vital vessel plays an essential role in the complex choreography of maritime navigation, guiding larger ships safely through treacherous waters.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

Beyond the pilot boat, shorebirds fly in rhythmic formation, a sight both familiar and comforting. Using the zoom (300mm) of my variable zoom lens, I identify these birds as pelicans, their elegant, synchronized flight a mesmerizing display against the vast expanse of water.

The pilot boat comes to a stop between us and anchored fishing boats, a cluster of vessels that seem to float effortlessly on the waves. Each boat, with its unique character and history, tells a story of countless journeys and the lives of those who depend on the sea for their livelihood. The fishermen, with their weathered faces and hands skilled in the art of the catch, embody a resilience born from years of facing the sea’s many moods. These boats are tools of the trade, lifelines for the families and communities they support, each one a testament to the enduring human spirit.

The post header photograph captures Punta Negra, the northern boundary of the harbor. The rugged, imposing cliffs of Punta Negra rise sharply from the water, their stark beauty accentuated by a white layer of diatomaceous earth running along the coast. This geological feature, first encountered at our last port in Mollendo, Peru, adds a unique texture to the landscape, a silent testament to the natural history of the region. The white layer, created by the accumulation of microscopic algae over millennia, stands out vividly against the darker rock, a reminder of the Earth’s ancient past.

Look closely, can you make out the distinctive shape of a Monkey Puzzle tree along the shoreline road? This ancient tree, with its unique and resilient form, mirrors the endurance of those who live and work in this challenging environment. The Monkey Puzzle tree, native to Chile, is known for its hardiness and longevity, thriving in conditions where few other trees can survive. It stands as a metaphor for the people of this region, who have adapted to and thrived in one of the world’s most inhospitable landscapes.

As I zoom in further, using the full 300mm power of my lens on a stable tripod, I capture close views of the fishing boats. Each detail comes into sharp focus – the rusted hulls, the nets hanging in preparation, the names of the boats proudly painted on their sides. These vessels, with their worn and weathered appearances, have a beauty all their own. They are symbols of perseverance, of the daily struggle and triumphs of those who brave the sea to make a living. The fishing boats, though seemingly small in the vast ocean, are powerful symbols of human resilience and adaptability.

The sea, a constant presence in the lives of these people, shapes their days and their destinies. The fishermen head out each morning, guided by the tides and the weather, their knowledge of the sea passed down through generations. Each catch brings hope and sustenance, a reward for their hard work and skill. Yet, the sea is also unpredictable, capable of turning fierce and unforgiving in an instant. This duality – the sea as both provider and adversary – is a fundamental part of life here, woven into the fabric of daily existence.

Our ship’s anchor has dropped, signaling that we are ready to board the tender for the trip from anchorage to port. This marks the start of our day’s activities, a journey that will take us from the vast, open sea to the vibrant life of Iquique. As we prepare to disembark, I reflect on the interconnectedness of these moments – the precision of the pilot boat, the flight of the pelicans, the stories of the fishermen, and the enduring landscape. Each element weaves together to create a tapestry of life on the sea, a testament to the resilience and beauty of this remarkable region.

The tender ride offers a closer look at the fishing boats and the shore. I notice the intricate details of the boats – the colorful paint, the weather-beaten wood, the names that reflect the hopes and dreams of their owners. Each boat is a microcosm of life, carrying the weight of daily struggles and the promise of future catches. The fishermen, now preparing their gear for the day’s work, move with practiced ease, their actions a ballet of efficiency honed by years of experience.

As we approach the port, the city of Iquique comes into view, a bustling hub of activity nestled between the sea and the mountains. The contrast between the natural beauty of the landscape and the vibrant energy of the city is striking. Here, in this meeting place of land and sea, past and present, we see the resilience of the human spirit, the ability to adapt and thrive in even the most challenging conditions.

This journey, from the open sea to the heart of Iquique, is more than just a physical passage. It is a journey through time and history, a glimpse into the lives of those who call this place home. As we step onto the shore, ready to explore the city and its rich heritage, I carry with me the stories of the sea, the echoes of the past, and the promise of new discoveries.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea V

Join us on a mesmerizing journey as we approach Iquique, Chile by sea, capturing the stark beauty of the coastal landscape and exploring the fascinating history of the Atacama Desert and Humberstone’s ghostly remains.

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Thirty minutes have passed since Part I, and the pilot boat from Part IV is pulling away. The pilot has climbed the rope ladder up the side of the Regatta, and now the boat is pulling away, its job done for the moment.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

I use the wide angle (70mm) of the variable zoom lens to provide a panorama of the scene.

With the pilot at the helm, watched intently by the Regatta crew, the ship slowly makes its way towards the anchorage, just outside the bustling harbor. The precision and skill involved in navigating these waters are palpable. Every movement is deliberate, calculated to ensure our safe arrival.

The ship will anchor outside the navigation lane, joining a cluster of fishing boats that seem to be both close yet worlds away. This juxtaposition of large cruise ships and smaller, hardworking fishing vessels highlights the diverse marine activity in these waters.

As we edge closer, I zoom into the scene to get a better look at the “dead end” highway built into the steep escarpment above the fishing boat anchorage.

This road, carved into the rugged terrain, is where service vehicles are parked. It’s a stark reminder of the isolation and the challenges faced by those living and working in this region. The road, seemingly clinging to the side of the escarpment, underscores the harsh, arid landscape that surrounds Iquique.

There is only one road linking Iquique to the outside world, a lifeline that snakes its way through the unforgiving Atacama Desert. This single route is vital, not just for the movement of people, but for the transport of goods and services that sustain the city and its inhabitants. The resilience required to thrive in such an environment is evident everywhere you look.

In the distance, the fishing boats bob gently on the waves, a stark contrast to the imposing cliffs that rise sharply from the sea. The boats, though dwarfed by the natural landscape, exude a quiet dignity, representing the enduring spirit of those who make their living from the ocean. The water, a deep, reflective blue, mirrors the sky above, creating a seamless blend of sea and sky, interrupted only by the rugged coastline.

Our journey today will take us beyond the city, along this solitary road to the World Heritage Site of Humberstone. Once a bustling nitrate mine, Humberstone sits on a plane above the city, a stark reminder of Chile’s rich industrial history. The site, now a ghost town, tells the story of the nitrate boom that once powered the region’s economy. As we drive, the landscape will transition from the coastal beauty of Iquique to the stark, desolate beauty of the Atacama Desert.

This is a journey through time, from the modern-day hustle and bustle of Iquique to the silent echoes of Humberstone’s past. The road a connection to the history and heritage of this remarkable region. As we venture into the heart of the desert, the stories of those who lived and worked in these harsh conditions will come alive, offering a glimpse into the resilience and determination that define the spirit of Chile.

The anchorage, with its mix of modern and traditional vessels, serves as a microcosm of Iquique itself – a city where the past and present coexist, where the sea provides a livelihood, and the land tells a story of survival and adaptation. As the Regatta settles into its temporary home on the water, I feel a sense of anticipation for the adventures that lie ahead. The pilot boat, now a small speck in the distance, has done its job, guiding us safely to this point. From here, the journey continues, both on land and through the annals of history, as we set out to explore the wonders of Iquique and beyond.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea IV

Discover the vibrant blend of history and modern maritime traditions in Iquique. From the dramatic escarpment backdrop to the bustling harbor, join us on a journey exploring the city’s past and present, anchored in seafaring tales.

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Continue reading “Iquique by Sea IV” →

Iquique by Sea III

Explore the dramatic events of May 21, 1879, when Captain Arturo Prat’s heroic stand at the Battle of Iquique turned the tide of the War of the Pacific, shaping South American history. Discover the legacy of this pivotal naval encounter.

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Iquique was a Peruvian city under Chilean naval blockade in May 1879 during the War of the Pacific, also called the Saltpeter War, for control of valuable nitrate deposits in the Atacama Desert. The conflict primarily involved Chile, Peru, and Bolivia, with Chile aiming to secure the resource-rich coastal regions of Bolivia and southern Peru.

The photographs illustrating this post feature Valparaiso, beginning with an overview of Plaza Sotomayor from the bridge of the ship Regatta docked in the harbor. Centered in the square is a memorial to the heroes of Iquique, a tribute to those who fought valiantly during the naval confrontations.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

View of the Monument to the Heroes of Iquique from the bridge of the Regatta.

On the morning of May 21, 1879, two older wooden Chilean ships were stationed blockading the Iquique harbor: the corvette Esmeralda, captained by Arturo Prat Chacón, and the schooner Covadonga. Out of the thick morning fog emerged two Peruvian ironclad ships, the Huáscar and the Independencia. The Huáscar, commanded by Admiral Miguel Grau, posed a significant threat to the Chilean blockade due to its superior firepower and armor.

The Heroes’ Names are listed in large letters

Facing the formidable Peruvian ironclads, the Covadonga withdrew to avoid certain destruction. Captain Prat, however, stood his ground aboard the Esmeralda. Despite being heavily outgunned and outmatched, Prat chose to engage the Huáscar. In a courageous but ultimately futile effort, Prat attempted to board the Huáscar but was killed in the process, and the Esmeralda was subsequently destroyed with a great loss of life.

Each corner features a larger than life statue representing the heroes

The Battle of Iquique ended with a Peruvian victory, temporarily lifting the blockade and opening the port. However, the heroism displayed by Captain Prat and his crew had a profound impact on Chilean morale. News of their bravery spread rapidly, galvanizing the Chilean population and military. Prat’s sacrifice became a symbol of national pride and determination, fueling Chile’s resolve to win the war.

One figure is Captain Prat

The outcome of the War of the Pacific was a decisive victory for Chile. By the end of the conflict in 1884, Chile had gained significant territories from Peru and Bolivia, including the nitrate-rich provinces of Tarapacá and Antofagasta. These territorial acquisitions provided Chile with substantial economic benefits due to the lucrative nitrate mines, which were crucial for agricultural fertilizers and explosives.

The War of the Pacific had far-reaching consequences for the region. Bolivia lost its coastal territory, becoming a landlocked country, which has had lasting implications on its economic development and geopolitical strategy. Peru, on the other hand, was forced to cede valuable territories and endured a period of economic hardship and political instability following the war.

Today, the Battle of Iquique is commemorated annually in Chile on Naval Glories Day (Día de las Glorias Navales) on May 21st. This national holiday honors the bravery of Captain Prat and his men, serving as a reminder of their sacrifice and the pivotal role the battle played in Chilean history.

In summary, the blockade of Iquique and the ensuing naval battle were significant events in the War of the Pacific. They highlighted the strategic importance of naval power and the impact of individual heroism on national morale. The war reshaped the territorial boundaries in the region, with lasting economic and political effects that continue to influence the countries involved.

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Copyright 2020 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved

Iquique by Sea II

Explore the rugged beauty of Chile’s Atacama Desert coast as we approach Iquique. Discover the historical significance of ghost towns and the stunning natural landscapes captured through a zoom lens from our cruise ship.

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As we continue our approach to Iquique, the landscape unfolds with increasing clarity and detail after I swapped out the 24 mm lens with a variable “zoom”, 70 – 300mm. The ship’s slow progress offers ample time to observe and absorb the stark beauty of the coastline. The variable lens captures the rugged intricacies of the cliffs and the subtle hues of the arid landscape that rise abruptly from the Pacific Ocean.

Click any photograph for a larger view and use Ctrl-x to zoom in closer.

Caleta Buena, the ghost town perched at the foot of a 750-foot escarpment, is no longer in sight. This once-thriving nitrate shipping point is a haunting reminder of the region’s historical significance in the nitrate mining industry. The small bay, or “caleta,” provided just enough shelter to construct piers and docks, facilitating the transportation of this valuable mineral. The remnants of this enterprise are barely visible, blending seamlessly into the harsh terrain.

The juxtaposition of the nutrient-rich Humbolt Current against the barren cliffs is a sight to behold. The current, teeming with marine life, supports the local fishing industry. I manage to capture a small fishing boat setting out for the day, its solitary presence emphasizing the vastness and solitude of the surrounding ocean. The boat’s journey highlights the symbiotic relationship between the sea’s bounty and the livelihood of those who brave its waters.

Moving southward, the cliffs give way to a formidable pediment, a broad, sloping surface that forms the base of the coastal mountains. This pediment, barren and uninviting, is a testament to the geological forces that have shaped this region. The harsh environment, with its minimal vegetation and arid conditions, stands in stark contrast to the vibrant marine ecosystem just offshore.

Our ship’s slow advance allows for contemplation of this unique landscape. The term “the imprint of God’s thumb on the land” resonates deeply as I witness the natural formations that seem almost intentional in their design. The cliffs and pediment, while imposing, serve as a prelude to the more hospitable terrain that lies ahead.

Approaching Punto Negro, the cliffs begin to recede, revealing a more accessible coastline. This geographical shift creates a natural harbor that has enabled the establishment and growth of Iquique. The city, with its deep-rooted history in the nitrate industry, emerges as a beacon of human resilience and adaptation in an otherwise unforgiving landscape.

Iquique’s strategic location, nestled between the receding cliffs and the ocean, provides a unique blend of natural beauty and industrial significance. The city’s development is intricately linked to the geographical features that surround it, from the nutrient-rich waters of the Humbolt Current to the protective embrace of the coastal cliffs.

As the Regatta inches closer to port, the anticipation builds. The approach to Iquique is not merely a physical journey but a voyage through time and nature’s grandeur. Each photograph, each observation, adds a layer to the rich tapestry of this experience. The slow, deliberate pace of the ship allows for a deeper appreciation of the intricate interplay between land and sea, history and progress.

In these moments of quiet reflection, I feel a profound connection to the land and its stories. The approach to Iquique is a reminder of the delicate balance that sustains life in this harsh yet beautiful corner of the world. It is a journey that underscores the resilience of both nature and humanity, each adapting to and shaping the other in an ongoing dance of survival and growth.

Click me for the first post of this series.

Copyright 2024 Michael Stephen Wills All Rights Reserved